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just had a call from the stealer. since the plugs and coils are fairly new they are not sure whats going on. they want to check fuel pressure and perform cleaning for a total of 800 bucks and thats not covered by warranty.
I asked them about vario cam, he immediately states there would have been codes for it. These people are working like doctors, if the computer doesnt tell them whats wrong, they dont know what to do.
just had a call from the stealer. since the plugs and coils are fairly new they are not sure whats going on. they want to check fuel pressure and perform cleaning for a total of 800 bucks and thats not covered by warranty.
I asked them about vario cam, he immediately states there would have been codes for it. These people are working like doctors, if the computer doesnt tell them whats wrong, they dont know what to do.
Dealer checked the fuel pressure and its fine. Now they are telling me that there are misfires on Cyl 1, 2, 4, 5 and 6.
My Duramatic Pro showed only 4,5,6.
Coils and plugs were all new about 8k miles ago so they are assuming its not that and they didn't even bother checking. don't know if i should let them continue ringing up the bill or if i can save my self few pennies and try it my self.
To Craig....
Is there a resistance test or powered relay test for these Solinoids before we go to the expense of replacing them?
Have same symptoms and replacing plugs which looked good. Tested igniters. They're all fine.
Professionally Rebuilt engine. Used some old parts.
Thanks for your help. That misfire code for a whole bank was puzzling. Glad I found this thread.
Jeff D
So even though i told the SA to look at the freaking timing and solenoid, after he ignored me and racked up additional charges doing fuel system cleaning, in the end it turned out to be Hydraulic lift solenoid bank 2.
At least warranty covered most of it. still cost me additional 250 out of my pocket that it shouldn't have.
2009 911C4s 59,540 miles. Car was misfiring 4-5-6. Check engine light and take to dealer messages would appear after car warmed up. Car ran fine above 1K RPMS. Coils and plugs ok. Replaced Cam Adjuster Solenoid no change. Took to Porsche dealer. Senior Tech checked everything and decided to to call Porsche technical support. HE saved me a few bucks in unnecessary troubleshooting costs. The tech was advised to swap Lifter Valve Solenoid to other banks and see if problem followed. After conferring with me on swapping the solenoid we decided to just replace the Solenoid to save on labor costs. Replacing the Lifter Valve Solenoid solved the problem. Car runs fine.
In my case the engine started shaking, the check engine light was blinking red, and after taking it to a mechanic, and troubleshooting the cam position sensors, turns out that the ims was the culprit.
When we opened the oil filter i knew my answer: the oil had nice golden particles in it, and the ims was almost gone.
In my case tye engine didnt collapse completely, it was just that on one side the chain skipped hence giving the multiple misfire codes.
I still have the engine in case of someone interrested in rebuilding it, don't get me wrong this will not be a simple job, the crank case needs to come apart, and the intermediate shaft needs to be replaced.
See the shaft itself is still in one piece, but on the side where the bearing goes in, the little groove that helps keep it in place is damaged, so with this one there is an elevated risk of the bearing coming out.
In my case the engine started shaking, the check engine light was blinking red, and after taking it to a mechanic, and troubleshooting the cam position sensors, turns out that the ims was the culprit. When we opened the oil filter i knew my answer: the oil had nice golden particles in it, and the ims was almost gone. In my case tye engine didnt collapse completely, it was just that on one side the chain skipped hence giving the multiple misfire codes. I still have the engine in case of someone interrested in rebuilding it, don't get me wrong this will not be a simple job, the crank case needs to come apart, and the intermediate shaft needs to be replaced. See the shaft itself is still in one piece, but on the side where the bearing goes in, the little groove that helps keep it in place is damaged, so with this one there is an elevated risk of the bearing coming out.
Sorry to hear ! What year is your car and what is the milage ??
I just went throught he same thing on my 997.2, misfire and random stalling. Eventually went into limp home mode. Dealer diagnosed as solenoid and replaced it under CPO. So far so good. Plugs were done 3000k km ago.
2009 C2S, 67k miles.
On Tues Sept 6 morning, it started fine but was running rough. Got out of the neighborhood and it was even rougher. As I sat at a traffic light the CEL illuminated. I don't own any diagnostic tools. I thought "I'll just drive to the dealership right now" (3 miles away), turned the corner and realized "I don't think I can make it, better go home". Had her towed to dealership, and they diagnosed it as mass airflow sensor and purge valve. Parts ordered, work done, phone call Friday said it is running fine at speed, but misfiring at idle on bank 2 (4, 5, 6) and they were trying to figure out what caused that. The following Thursday afternoon (Sept 15) they say they think they figured it out, cam shaft solenoid. Friday afternoon Sept 16 it was fixed, runs great now. 2 weeks and $1400 to the dealer, plus $109 for the tow.
I'm the 3rd owner, had her since Feb 2014 and this is the first issue I've had. In 2.5 yrs I've put 10k miles on the odo. When I first got her I got quotes from Porsche for warranty programs. I'm still glad I didn't get the warranty - here's what I was quoted:
30/30/ $5822 and that with $250 deductible
36/36/ $7347 and that with $250 deductible
Keeping my fingers crossed that I don't have bigger issues in the next year which would make me regret the above statement.
Last edited by blue steel; 09-19-2016 at 12:25 PM.
Just got the "Rough Running on Cylinder number 3" after replacing the plugs and coils. Durametric showed zero misfires. The coil trigger wire was not seated well. Clicked it in and all better.
Great thread, and real lifesaver! Had misfires reporting on cylinders 4,5,6, and code for too-lean fuel and too-rich fuel. Because of the later, I started out with the MAF. Didn't help, unfortunately. So, I went to the VVS actuator on the right bank (cylinders 4,5,6). Want to share with the team a few notes from the experience, as it took me considerable time to locate the VVS actuator I needed.
First, my vehicle is a 997.2 (2009) 3.6
The part number needed for my vehicle was 9A110530804 (9A110530803 is what was in my vehilce, but this has since been updated to (4)). My local Porsche dealer was able to get it for a reasonable $175.
In the meantime I ordered new coils, as I figured if I have the beast dissassembled, might as well give it some love.
Used Rennlist post on removing bumper cover. Far easier than I had expected.
Used 6speed for a post on removing the mufflers. I was lucky as a recent replacement had refreshed my bolts. Its a beast for some!
Really, really hate the heat shield covering the coils. Like, really hate them. Not sure the right way to get those snatchers off, but it helped by removing the E12 bollts on the bottom of the muffler retainer bracket so I could move it a bit to get things around. I also pulled off the bottom heat shield on one of the sides as well, although not sure that was necessary. It did help when I disengaged the coil connections, freeing up valuable milimeters in the tight space.
To remove the VVS actuator, you will need a 1/4" drive E8 socket. My 3/8" drive E8 wouldn't fit in the tight space. With a 1/4" drive E8, all was easy. Very easy replacement once the area is exposed.
#11 is the VVS Actuator
When doing the work, I started by only pulling the right muffler. Once the VVS Actuator was replaced, I put the muffler back on briefly to test the operation. Can't tell you how happy I was when she purred like the tiger she is! I did this interim step as I knew there was a cam sensor in there as well, and thought a failed cam sensor might also cause some misfires. Didn't want to have everything finished only to have to go back in. After the test, I then replaced all coils on both sides.
For newbies like myself, am posting a picture of a VVS actuator in position
VVS Actuator on right side of picture, behind O2 lead. Has two small E8 bolts.
You can also see how tight the space is, and why I felt I needed a 1/4" drive to get in there.
1/4" E8 socket engaging left (aft) E8 bolt of actuator. Right E8 bolt is already out. Metal clip is pushed in, and harness removes easily
Thanks again to everyone on this list. Could not have figured it out without you!!
03-09-2016, 12:15 PM
