I clayed my car today!
#1
Track Day
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I never clayed a car before until this afternoon. Wasn't as difficult as I expected. I had noticed, on my six month old car, that even though it was shiny it had a rough feel to it. I had waxed it several times and didn't make any difference. So after reading here I decided to clay and wax. I used Griots spray and it did very well. But my clay turned red. The finish got smooth and slick. I then waxed it a couple of times and I am much more satisfied. I don't know what got on it or if it had always been that way. It is covered all he time except on the road. Any susuggestions would be appreciated.
Bill
Bill
#6
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I heard 6 months old, clay, and wax. Did not hear "polish." If you're happy, be happy. But it sure sounds to me like you could use a good Griot's Machine 4 polish- and then wax.
About multiple waxing- big waste of time. Quality waxes like Griot's Best of Show are made by finely grinding up the rock-hard carnauba wax into a powder that is mixed with petroleum based solvents that hold the wax in kind of a suspended solution. That last bits a little vague, I'm no Walter White, but good enough for us. When we wax we spread this out thin, the oils evaporate off and we're left with a nice hard wax coating. One of the reasons a freshly waxed car looks so awesome is it takes a while for all the carrier oils to evaporate. While they're on there they add a little depth. But the point is, its not like putting on an extra coat of paint. If you wax again right away all that happens is the solvents in the second "coat" dissolve the first coat and you just wind up pushing the wax around. It doesn't build up. If it does, well wax build-up doesn't look better, it looks awful. No matter how many times you wax, you still always wind up with the same thin coverage. Take the time you save multiple waxing and spend it claying, because you WILL see an improvement with clay.
About multiple waxing- big waste of time. Quality waxes like Griot's Best of Show are made by finely grinding up the rock-hard carnauba wax into a powder that is mixed with petroleum based solvents that hold the wax in kind of a suspended solution. That last bits a little vague, I'm no Walter White, but good enough for us. When we wax we spread this out thin, the oils evaporate off and we're left with a nice hard wax coating. One of the reasons a freshly waxed car looks so awesome is it takes a while for all the carrier oils to evaporate. While they're on there they add a little depth. But the point is, its not like putting on an extra coat of paint. If you wax again right away all that happens is the solvents in the second "coat" dissolve the first coat and you just wind up pushing the wax around. It doesn't build up. If it does, well wax build-up doesn't look better, it looks awful. No matter how many times you wax, you still always wind up with the same thin coverage. Take the time you save multiple waxing and spend it claying, because you WILL see an improvement with clay.
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#8
Instructor
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Can someone plz explain how clay actually works? Gliding it across a painted wet surface with no pressure I just don't get how it's effective removing contaminants. Granted I'm no expert detailer and only tried it once a while back using Zaino clay on my black 993. I could not really tell whether I was doing the job. Either the paint surface was already clean or I didn't do it correctly. Can one "overclay"?
#9
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Can someone plz explain how clay actually works? Gliding it across a painted wet surface with no pressure I just don't get how it's effective removing contaminants. Granted I'm no expert detailer and only tried it once a while back using Zaino clay on my black 993. I could not really tell whether I was doing the job. Either the paint surface was already clean or I didn't do it correctly. Can one "overclay"?
#10
Race Director
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Can someone plz explain how clay actually works? Gliding it across a painted wet surface with no pressure I just don't get how it's effective removing contaminants. Granted I'm no expert detailer and only tried it once a while back using Zaino clay on my black 993. I could not really tell whether I was doing the job. Either the paint surface was already clean or I didn't do it correctly. Can one "overclay"?
the important part is to keep the surface properly lubed. I used concentrated mix of car wash soap and water.
#11
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OMG! Everyone please PURGE all mentions of "abrasive" in conjunction with "clay"! It is NOT an abrasive!
Paint cleaning clays started with paint shops using it to remove overspray. That stuff was aggressive and would scratch. Paint cleaning clay today is very soft and when used properly will not harm or remove paint AT ALL.
The clay works by gliding on a thin film (water or detail spray) and accumulating contaminants around the edges. Contaminants stick up above the paint just enough to rise above the thin film and get stuck in the clay. If your car is dirty enough and you let it build up enough without re-molding the clay like you're supposed to do then you might scratch your paint. But with the contaminants, not the clay.
Always wash before you clay. Always clay before you polish or wax. You really cannot clay too much. But if you pay close attention to the way it feels, the amount of drag, and edge build-up, you'll be able to tell if its really needed or not.
Paint cleaning clays started with paint shops using it to remove overspray. That stuff was aggressive and would scratch. Paint cleaning clay today is very soft and when used properly will not harm or remove paint AT ALL.
The clay works by gliding on a thin film (water or detail spray) and accumulating contaminants around the edges. Contaminants stick up above the paint just enough to rise above the thin film and get stuck in the clay. If your car is dirty enough and you let it build up enough without re-molding the clay like you're supposed to do then you might scratch your paint. But with the contaminants, not the clay.
Always wash before you clay. Always clay before you polish or wax. You really cannot clay too much. But if you pay close attention to the way it feels, the amount of drag, and edge build-up, you'll be able to tell if its really needed or not.
#12
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From a durability standpoint you want a sealant. Period. I recommned Menzerna Full Metal Jacket, but there are 10-15 that are all about the same durability wise. And if you really wanna get into it you can layer them. Sealant first, then after it cures you can add a pure carnuba on top. Sealants tend to offer a more clear gloss whereas carnuba is a warm sort of glow. The two combined is the best of both worlds because sealants last 4 to 5 times as long as carnuba.
Check out www.autogeek.net , best resources on the net for detailing info.
Check out www.autogeek.net , best resources on the net for detailing info.
#13
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OMG! Everyone please PURGE all mentions of "abrasive" in conjunction with "clay"! It is NOT an abrasive!
Paint cleaning clays started with paint shops using it to remove overspray. That stuff was aggressive and would scratch. Paint cleaning clay today is very soft and when used properly will not harm or remove paint AT ALL.
The clay works by gliding on a thin film (water or detail spray) and accumulating contaminants around the edges. Contaminants stick up above the paint just enough to rise above the thin film and get stuck in the clay. If your car is dirty enough and you let it build up enough without re-molding the clay like you're supposed to do then you might scratch your paint. But with the contaminants, not the clay.
Always wash before you clay. Always clay before you polish or wax. You really cannot clay too much. But if you pay close attention to the way it feels, the amount of drag, and edge build-up, you'll be able to tell if its really needed or not.
Paint cleaning clays started with paint shops using it to remove overspray. That stuff was aggressive and would scratch. Paint cleaning clay today is very soft and when used properly will not harm or remove paint AT ALL.
The clay works by gliding on a thin film (water or detail spray) and accumulating contaminants around the edges. Contaminants stick up above the paint just enough to rise above the thin film and get stuck in the clay. If your car is dirty enough and you let it build up enough without re-molding the clay like you're supposed to do then you might scratch your paint. But with the contaminants, not the clay.
Always wash before you clay. Always clay before you polish or wax. You really cannot clay too much. But if you pay close attention to the way it feels, the amount of drag, and edge build-up, you'll be able to tell if its really needed or not.
I clayed / waxed this weekend in prep for Winter. I was amazed at the amount of paint contaminants I pulled up from the lower side panels
#15
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From a durability standpoint you want a sealant. Period. I recommned Menzerna Full Metal Jacket, but there are 10-15 that are all about the same durability wise. And if you really wanna get into it you can layer them. Sealant first, then after it cures you can add a pure carnuba on top. Sealants tend to offer a more clear gloss whereas carnuba is a warm sort of glow. The two combined is the best of both worlds because sealants last 4 to 5 times as long as carnuba.
Check out www.autogeek.net , best resources on the net for detailing info.
Check out www.autogeek.net , best resources on the net for detailing info.