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Preparing to replace the spark plugs in my 991.1 C2S for the first time and would appreciate some advice. I plan to do this one side at a time (don’t have the luxury of a lift) and would like recommendations as to the easiest & safest method for raising the car to remove the wheels and access the plugs. What jack point should I use and where should I best place a jackstand? Photos/videos welcomed.
I use the rear cross member to lift closest to where the lower control arm mounts to. Lifting it from the middle of the cross member needs a really long travel jack and it's a little shady from there. The chassis is stiff enough to lift the opposite wheel but not worth dealing with a sketchy middle point.
I recommend taking off the whole entire bumper, and intercooler cage. Should make for an easy spark plug change.
The flat rate folks at the dealer just take the wheel, liners, and the intake tube and those guys have finesse. If you're an amateur take the long way.
I use the rear cross member to lift closest to where the lower control arm mounts to. Lifting it from the middle of the cross member needs a really long travel jack and it's a little shady from there. The chassis is stiff enough to lift the opposite wheel but not worth dealing with a sketchy middle point.
I recommend taking off the whole entire bumper, and intercooler cage. Should make for an easy spark plug change.
The flat rate folks at the dealer just take the wheel, liners, and the intake tube and those guys have finesse. If you're an amateur take the long way.
I lift from the center of the rear cross member and use two jackstands placed on the rear jack points and use these jack pads below for the jackstand. Just make sure you don't lift from the oil pan as it is nearby. He has a 991.1 no turbo. Bumper removal does nothing. Pull the wheels off and it is rather simple. I have been lifting from center of cross member for 10 years when doing oil changes without an issue.
I’m of the other opinion that taking off the fascia and IC cages is a waste of time that provides minimal additional access. Sure, you can see stuff a little easier, but you’re still squeezing your hands in there and using extensions with wobble sockets to do the job. You can do it perfectly fine without wasting many more hours removing and reinstalling all that stuff. Once the car is in the air and wheels are off, spark plugs should take no more than an hour per side, so why more than double the amount of work you have to do?
edit: I do recommend a set of low-profile torx bits that come with the wrench like this:
these tend to come in handy very frequently working around the 991 engine.
Last edited by MingusDew; Jun 22, 2025 at 04:10 PM.
I have a quickjack, but when I changed my spark plugs earlier this month, I just lifted the rear of the vehicle. I have a fairly long floor jack and used the cross member as well; there's a casting mark right at the centre of it. It's not "shady" at all when you lift from there. Jack stands on either end and you're done.
I lift from the center of the rear cross member and use two jackstands placed on the rear jack points and use these jack pads below for the jackstand. Just make sure you don't lift from the oil pan as it is nearby. He has a 991.1 no turbo. Bumper removal does nothing. Pull the wheels off and it is rather simple. I have been lifting from center of cross member for 10 years when doing oil changes without an issue.
I think both spots on the crossmember work fine. The point where the control arms bolt to is just a stronger portion, but lots of people lift at the center without problem, as long as they have a jack that reaches. My jack barely reaches that spot, so I feel a bit better doing the control arm bolts because they’re closer to the sides and easier to reach. When I lift just the rear I do one side at a time, using the control arms bolt at the cross member to lift and then put the jack stand with pad under the lift point. Then I lift the other side and put the stand under that side. Takes a couple of minutes and the wheels are off the ground.
I’m of the other opinion that taking off the fascia and IC cages is a waste of time that provides minimal additional access. Sure, you can see stuff a little easier, but you’re still squeezing your hands in there and using extensions with wobble sockets to do the job. You can do it perfectly fine without wasting many more hours removing and reinstalling all that stuff. Once the car is in the air and wheels are off, spark plugs should take no more than an hour per side, so why more than double the amount of work you have to do?
edit: I do recommend a set of low-profile torx bits that come with the wrench like this:
these tend to come in handy very frequently working around the 991 engine.
I echo this for 991.2. def do not need to remove the rear bumper. Now if you're already removing the bumper, for air filter, then sure.