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I meant frugal in the sense of spending money wisely, so I think we are coming from the same place.
I fully understood what you meant and read your post completely.
You were spot on with "usable energy" and "number of cycles". Hell, if I was in the battlefield in silent watch, I'd think about that, but this is a car. I ran and worked in a battery lab in the government performing tests on chargers, batteries, etc. My last two factory installed batteries lasted 14 and 16 years and they were a flooded lead acid, nothing special like an AGM or heaven forbid, a Lithium.
I'm frugal and that is why I can own two 911s as a tech.
First I would like to thank everyone for their input about which battery I should buy. With such diverse opinions I'm more confused now then before, so I’ve decided to spend $851.37 including shipping for the Antigravity battery. I will see what happens once I install it. It's only money right?
Thanks again for helping me make up my mind.
Hey Home Run, thanks for trying our product. What I will say flat out is if you don't like it or find you don't even need it or it doesn't work for your application we will refund you in full and pay shipping back. You can find that in posts by us all over Rennlist. We don't mess around, if the Customer is unhappy or it won't work for thier use. Additionally there is a standing Rennlist Discount, and we get you that if you were not aware of it, just contact us at chad or scott@antigravitybatteries.com.
What I will say also so you can understand is that IF you came back to the Car and have to use the RE-START function, then after you have used the RE-StART make sure you fully recharge the battery again if you do another trip out of town. YOu can do that with a Charger or diving a few hours over the course of a few days. This is because if the battery is in a low state of charge to the point that it went into sleep mode, then to get the full capactiy of charge back into the battery you need to leave it on a charger overnight or simply drive a bit before your next longer storage period when you leave town. It does need a full re-charge to get all it capactity back to be able to store for several weeks again.
Secondly when you change out a battery you may experiance some flags upon the first drives because when you disconnect a battery the Car, the computer sees it went to zero volts, so the flags will pop up until it learns there is a battery in the car again and all the voltages are correct.
Bud, I do not need more usable energy. The Original and Stock H7 Banner battery that came in my GTS works perfectly well in my car after 8 long and full years in service and I'll probably get many more years. And if not, I'll just spend $250 and get another one like it that'll last that long again. And if they work in my car, then they must work in every other car out there.
I do not have a battery issue, so why do I need a grossly overpriced AntiGravity battery? And if I did have a battery issue, I'd fix the issue and still continue to use an AGM battery as before.
If you claim I can get 3x the life from your battery I bet you I cannot get 48 years out of one of your batteries considering I already got 16 out of a conventional \flooded lead acid battery.
And the last thing I need is a lighter battery out front to further upset an already tail heavy car.
Jeez, I got to put up with you on ADVRider and here too. Give me a bridge to jump off of.
I sincerely apologize if you felt this was some sort of attack. Honestly, all I was trying to do was correct your statements that were not accurate in terms of an apples to apples comparison Lead vs Lithium. I notice youself and Asselus seem to be acting out of a grudge against this technology, due to its pricing or perhaps you just don't like Antigravity. Fair enough, but also understand I'm not trying to create conflict but rather state the facts when I feel there is a statement that is inaccurate, or stated out of context.
Honestly, all I was trying to do was correct your statements that were not accurate in terms of an apples to apples comparison Lead vs Lithium.
Accurate statements? Oh please... What, the fact that I or anyone else does not need more "usable energy" or "number of cycles", both factors that are totally unimportant in vehicle use. You even made a totally useless statement about "low self-discharge", don't even try arguing that aspect.
Neither I or assllus or anyone has a "grudge", period. You are supplying answers to problems that do not exist.
Accurate statements? Oh please... What, the fact that I or anyone else does not need more "usable energy" or "number of cycles", both factors that are totally unimportant in vehicle use. You even made a totally useless statement about "low self-discharge", don't even try arguing that aspect.
Neither I or assllus or anyone has a "grudge", period. You are supplying answers to problems that do not exist.
Received my AntiGravity Battery Friday and read the instructions then installed the battery in the car it was so easy a caveman could do it. Not one code came up. Instructions said after installation you should drive 30 to 45 minutes I told my wife we needed to drive for about 1 to 1.5 hours to charge the battery we had a great time going up Highway 70 West toward Reno.
Received my AntiGravity Battery Friday and read the instructions then installed the battery in the car it was so easy a caveman could do it. Not one code came up. Instructions said after installation you should drive 30 to 45 minutes I told my wife we needed to drive for about 1 to 1.5 hours to charge the battery we had a great time going up Highway 70 West toward Reno.
991.1 or 991.2? No coding, right? Just a straight swap? If so, that helps a lot.
991.1 or 991.2? No coding, right? Just a straight swap? If so, that helps a lot.
Well not really. I know for a fact that the voltmeter in my MFD has shown as high as 15.0V (usually 14.8V) and I was alarmed the first time I saw that till I later found out that day when I checked the battery that it was an AGM battery. Perfectly normal voltages in that case for an AGM.
But if the AntiGravity has a monitoring system built into the battery, why would they list the following pic on their site?
See point 3 - "Do Not Charge Over 14.4V". And if that is the case, it would have to be recoded.
Hey Home Run, thanks for trying our product. What I will say flat out is if you don't like it or find you don't even need it or it doesn't work for your application we will refund you in full and pay shipping back. You can find that in posts by us all over Rennlist. We don't mess around, if the Customer is unhappy or it won't work for thier use. Additionally there is a standing Rennlist Discount, and we get you that if you were not aware of it, just contact us at chad or scott@antigravitybatteries.com.
What I will say also so you can understand is that IF you came back to the Car and have to use the RE-START function, then after you have used the RE-StART make sure you fully recharge the battery again if you do another trip out of town. YOu can do that with a Charger or diving a few hours over the course of a few days. This is because if the battery is in a low state of charge to the point that it went into sleep mode, then to get the full capactiy of charge back into the battery you need to leave it on a charger overnight or simply drive a bit before your next longer storage period when you leave town. It does need a full re-charge to get all it capactity back to be able to store for several weeks again.
Secondly when you change out a battery you may experiance some flags upon the first drives because when you disconnect a battery the Car, the computer sees it went to zero volts, so the flags will pop up until it learns there is a battery in the car again and all the voltages are correct.
Thank you for your engagement on this forum and discounts to rennlist guys. I am replacing my battery in July and was wondering what the % discount is? I have a 2018 991.2 C4 that I bought in July of 2017.
991.1 or 991.2? No coding, right? Just a straight swap? If so, that helps a lot.
Shammerman
99.1 No codes very simple swap. My back liked the difference in weight. I don't get all the fuss about these batteries the only downside I see is the price. As of now, I am happy time will tell.
99.1 No codes very simple swap. My back liked the difference in weight. I don't get all the fuss about these batteries the only downside I see is the price. As of now, I am happy time will tell.
YOu should not have any issues, and if you by chance you ever do we will have you covered.
Thats cool you didn't get any Codes, but being blunt I had a GT3RS and as others have said sometimes you get codes, other times you don't. I tried to find a reason, but I would most the time not get a code then other times get a code. I've done about 100 batteries changes in my car when we were developing and testing all the Battery Models several years ago, and I never learned why it does or doesn't do it sometimes.
Last, there should be no arguing, fuss or flaming about the product in truth. I certainly don't like to have any negative back and forth with any of the members here, but thats just the name of the game when you put yourself on a forum. So we respect all opinions and even those who want to just bash us for the hell of it. It give us the opportunity to state the facts for better or worse.
Thank you for your engagement on this forum and discounts to rennlist guys. I am replacing my battery in July and was wondering what the % discount is? I have a 2018 991.2 C4 that I bought in July of 2017.
Thanks for you interest and comments.
Can you write to Chad@ or Scott@antigravitybatteries.com and we'd be glad to get you the %'s of the standing discount for Rennlisters. We do not post them openly because we do not want them given out as a open discount code or posted elseware on other forums.
Well not really. I know for a fact that the voltmeter in my MFD has shown as high as 15.0V (usually 14.8V) and I was alarmed the first time I saw that till I later found out that day when I checked the battery that it was an AGM battery. Perfectly normal voltages in that case for an AGM.
But if the AntiGravity has a monitoring system built into the battery, why would they list the following pic on their site?
See point 3 - "Do Not Charge Over 14.4V". And if that is the case, it would have to be recoded.
Hi Shammerman, I'm posting this to answer your questions and answer the question posed by XLR8.
No Coding is needed being that the AGM coding that is stock on Porsches is the best for a daily driving and our Lithium Battery. This is because the Porsche Lithium Setting was intended for the Porsche Track Cars like the GT3s who they offered the Lithium Batteries to. So they set that charging profile (per their bulletin) to do a max of 13.8v charging due to high RPMs with track cars. So it not so good for Street applications. But the AGM stock charging profile is fine. Additionally you will absolutely find 15v on many Porsches and in fact we've seen it go to 15.4v during the Winter and that is also OK because it is programmed to RAISE the voltage during winter because when a lead/Acid Battery is cold it requires a higher charge rate to charge as fast as it would when at a normal Temp. So the Car computer controls that based on what is senses the temperature is.
As far as our battery saying do not charge above 14.4v, well that is the generally accepted best practice for a Lithium or Lead/Acid Battery within the industry. It is a more conservative charging leve, but in the end it does not make for a massive difference nor will it hurt the battery. Even 15v is considered over-charging for a Lead Acid battery but Porsches do it alot, that is not the batteries fault and I don't know why Porshe continues to do that but I assume it is to have a higher voltage to the cars system more often which can benefit it if more accessories are being used. In any event, you should NOT have to do any coding for our battery and we recommend you don't UNLESS you keep getting flags, which oddly a rare few cars do. What we have found is that Porsche has inconsistent voltage outputs across the same exact models.
Even 15v is considered over-charging for a Lead Acid battery but Porsches do it alot, that is not the batteries fault and I don't know why Porshe continues to do that but I assume it is to have a higher voltage to the cars system more often which can benefit it if more accessories are being used.
My God, we have the blind leading the blind. What do you mean "I assume"? On an AGM battery which is what we have in our 991s, 15V is not high based on the temperature of the battery. I was seeing 14.8V @ 6C and that is perfectly normal and lower on warmer or hot days. On my other daily driver car that has a conventional battery, 14.4V. On a cold day, charge voltages are higher and on a hot day, charge voltages are lower. Information as put out by battery manufacturers and it has nothing to do with having more or less accessories. It has everything to do with "gassing of the cells" which you would like to prevent.
Courtesy of East Penn batteries...
Nobody is bashing your batteries as you put it; you are doing that all by yourself with comments and the advertizing on your batteries that are 100% meaningless. Do you really want to talk about "Low Self-Discharge" that you advertize? I think not. Now if you advertized Lithium batteries have far greater energy density than an AGM or FLA, I have to agree with you 100%. Question is, do you need it? Nope, my and many cars have been starting the last 8 summers on the same battery.
Look you are a salesman, so I get it. I like to inform people of the facts.
03-30-2023, 12:38 PM
What, the fact that I or anyone else does not need more "usable energy" or "number of cycles", both factors that are totally unimportant in vehicle use. You even made a totally useless statement about "low self-discharge", don't even try arguing that aspect.
