Storage Guidance
#1
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Not sure if this has been discussed before.
I’m traveling for a few months and wanting to park off my car for Feb-April.
It’ll be kept underground. Anything other than locking it up which I need to do?
Id rather not disconnect the battery (in case someone needs to move it etc), but I’m open to suggestions.
If it matters- it’s a 991.1 Manual Cab.
I’m traveling for a few months and wanting to park off my car for Feb-April.
It’ll be kept underground. Anything other than locking it up which I need to do?
Id rather not disconnect the battery (in case someone needs to move it etc), but I’m open to suggestions.
If it matters- it’s a 991.1 Manual Cab.
#3
RL Community Team
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feb-april should be of no consequence if the battery is in good health and your electrical system is free of gremlins.
otherwise unhook it, or hook up a trickle charger.
no need to worry about the gas or oil or anything of that nature.
otherwise unhook it, or hook up a trickle charger.
no need to worry about the gas or oil or anything of that nature.
#5
Instructor
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Three months is kinda on the threshold of park and go versus taking some storage precautions. May as well go the extra mile, IMHO.
I agree with the battery tender suggestion. In my experience, even a 991 in good health can hoover a battery if dormant a full three months (although you may be fine, I just wouldn't risk it). And regardless of whether it will have enough juice to kick it over when you get back, it's just better for the long term health of the battery to keep it in a full state of charge. If it does go completely dead, it'll never be the same again. Lot's of ways to do it, but I hook a Deltran Battery tender to the battery directly and then run it along the rain channels of the frunk and then out, which you can fully close.
Typical wisdom is to leave the tank full so that moisture can't develop when the tank breathes. Stabilizer is a help, maybe overkill for three months. If you can fill with non-ethanol gas before you store that's better but modern systems handle the ethanol well. However, one precaution I would definitely take is to go easy through that first tank after you start it again. You don't know how old the gas you put in is, and then add three months, some moisture, and maybe crap winter gas to begin with and your octane number may be low. These engines compensate well and can run fine on 91, but I would avoid getting deep into boost on full load pulls until you get fresh gas in there.
If there is any chance of rodents, take some precautions. You can stuff your exhaust with something they aren't interested in (ie steel wool), and I like placing a few dryer sheets around the wheels (I don't do this in my main garage as I've never seen a mouse in there, but times when I've left different cars in a storage facility, or at my in-laws barn, I definitely do this).
I agree with the battery tender suggestion. In my experience, even a 991 in good health can hoover a battery if dormant a full three months (although you may be fine, I just wouldn't risk it). And regardless of whether it will have enough juice to kick it over when you get back, it's just better for the long term health of the battery to keep it in a full state of charge. If it does go completely dead, it'll never be the same again. Lot's of ways to do it, but I hook a Deltran Battery tender to the battery directly and then run it along the rain channels of the frunk and then out, which you can fully close.
Typical wisdom is to leave the tank full so that moisture can't develop when the tank breathes. Stabilizer is a help, maybe overkill for three months. If you can fill with non-ethanol gas before you store that's better but modern systems handle the ethanol well. However, one precaution I would definitely take is to go easy through that first tank after you start it again. You don't know how old the gas you put in is, and then add three months, some moisture, and maybe crap winter gas to begin with and your octane number may be low. These engines compensate well and can run fine on 91, but I would avoid getting deep into boost on full load pulls until you get fresh gas in there.
If there is any chance of rodents, take some precautions. You can stuff your exhaust with something they aren't interested in (ie steel wool), and I like placing a few dryer sheets around the wheels (I don't do this in my main garage as I've never seen a mouse in there, but times when I've left different cars in a storage facility, or at my in-laws barn, I definitely do this).
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Curious Cat (02-06-2023)
#6
Racer
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What is the reason for the dryer sheets?
#7
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#8
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Scented dryer sheets are said by some to deter rodents. Others insist they don’t work….
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Rustler (02-03-2023)
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Southbranch (02-02-2023)
#10
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Also, Instead of the mouse traps with bait I used a rodent deterrent. Last thing want is something attracting rodents to the car. Eventually there will be no trap or bait left and they've already learned that if they sneak around that thing, knowing there might be some food, making them return. Just my 2cents. I did set up rodent poison traps but not near the car, along the wall around 10ft away. Like I said, I want them to be deterred (or or attracted elsewhere) away from the car in general.
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Last edited by RP4S911; 02-03-2023 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Adding link
#11
Instructor
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As said above, the scent on the dryer sheets is noxious to the rodents. They avoid it like the plague. (That analogy may be flawed since they carry the plague, but you know what I mean). I don't have mice in my finished garage so don't do it around my PCar or E46, but I used them to great effect in unfinished barn/shed spaces. My experience is that it works like a charm. But that's just my experience.
The PB bait and bucket trap definitely works too, but you have to check it regularly or you have dead mice sitting there. The way I've done it in the past I run a coat hanger wire across the top of the bucket running through an empty toilet paper roll. Put some PB on the TP roll, and water in the bucket. Mouse climbs the bucket, goes out on wire, hits the TP roll, which...wait for it..........rolls, and then into the water. Very effective.
The PB bait and bucket trap definitely works too, but you have to check it regularly or you have dead mice sitting there. The way I've done it in the past I run a coat hanger wire across the top of the bucket running through an empty toilet paper roll. Put some PB on the TP roll, and water in the bucket. Mouse climbs the bucket, goes out on wire, hits the TP roll, which...wait for it..........rolls, and then into the water. Very effective.
#12
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my car is in my home garage and the door isn't open very much in the winter, just to occasionally run the snow blower, caught 3 mice in early december and nothing since then, but then it's cold out there, usually between -5C and -20C. obviously that won't work in a building common parking garage. I've never messed with the tire pressures and never had a problem, maybe just lucky or haven't noticed.