WP0

I’m getting another 991.1! This one is going to be a manual, and my others are PDK. I was just reviewing driving manual transmissions, and the more refined drivers seem to be of the opinion that there is a “best” RPM window to shift gears at, and it is different for each car / manufacturer. Is there any particular RPM that the transmission shifts most smoothly at (for just normal to slightly spirited road driving) for the 991.1?
Thanks.

asellus

That's a nuanced question.

There is no universal correct RPM to shift at. It depends what your goal is. Generally, don't lug the engine. Beyond that, you shift to keep the RPM in your desired range for your desired result.

Dgags

.1 can have as many personalities as you want. She can be driven for fuel efficiency or flogged like one of Heidi Fleiss’s girls.

JimEb

I found with my base 991.1 that she really needs to be wound out to wake her up. If you shift too early it's kind of sluggish. You'll disappointingly be watching the tach slowly rise wondering if this is all she's got. Then once over about 5000rpm it's like afterburners kick on and you'll be like..."There it is!".

It's not the easiest manual transmission car I've driven. Personally I think the clutch pedal pressure is ideal, although I do wish the travel was shorter. First car I've owned with a dual mass flywheel and I can't say I'm a fan. You can feel the give in the flywheel under hard acceleration and think your clutch is slipping. My car had some miles on it when I bought it and thought it was just worn out clutch/flywheel. Since replaced all that and it still feels that way. Biggest thing I noticed with a new clutch/flywheel was the friction point got way more predictable. The stock Porsche shifters kind of suck. You'll see why pretty much everyone starts looking for aftermarket shifters as their first mod after driving the car for a while.

With sport chrono on (I think) 2014 models and newer you'll get an auto blip on downshift when in Sport+. Lot's of people incorrectly refer to this as rev matching, but in the Porsche it's just auto blip. Does exactly what it says, briefly blips the throttle when you downshift. Makes you really sound like you know how to heel-toe when downshifting in a hard deceleration. Then other times makes you look like a tool when it auto blips as you shift into first gear when slowly rolling up to a light or stop sign. There must be a speed threshold for auto blip because it doesn't do that all the time.

With manuals using the parking brake is mandatory. It's such a confusing, non-intuitive push...or maybe pull to engage. Finding myself always fiddling with it every time I use it. Reverse gear is also next to 1st. Think only my old '84 Fiero was like that. Most mfg'ers put reverse over by the high gears. I don't like this arrangement as I've already accidentally shifted into reverse when intending to shift into 1st at a stoplight. Almost backed her up into the grill of the car behind me when the light turned green. Like I said, not the easiest manual transmission car I've driven.

WP0

Thanks for sharing your experience. What is wrong with the OEM shifter? By aftermarket shifter, are you referring to more than what appears to be an OEM short shifter, such as is available on suncoast parts?
Thanks again!

DC911S

Get the Numeric Shifter and the Numeric shift cables installed. Makes a huge difference

desmotesta

+1 on this

Pavegeno928

I have over 90K miles on my 2014 991.1 manual so here a few things I learned in the first two weeks of owning it.

I keep the RPMs below 3000 until the engine oil temperature comes up above about 170, then I'll take it higher. I avoid rapid/full throttle and aggressive shifting until I see about 200, where it stabilizes in SPORT/SPORT PLUS. If in NORMAL mode, the engine oil temp will get into the 220s. Of course, when driving very aggressively in SPORT/SPORT PLUS hard or at high triple-digit speeds, I have seen 220s on the oil temperature. No need to push it hard until it warms up.

On the color, changeable display right of the tachometer using the right-side stalk, you can change the view to the display that tells you the ideal time to shift. As you wind up the RPMs the display is green, as you get close to shifting point, it turns yellow, and then red. Shift at the top of the yellow just before it turns red and you get max performance out of the transmission. It's pretty slick and a big display so you can see it in your peripheral vision while keeping your eyes outside.

The parking brake? Just shift your thinking to treating it as if it were like the old pedal parking brakes on the floor and not the handles on the center console. On the old pedal parking brakes you pushed the pedal to the floor to engage the parking brake so do the same here...push the switch to engage. To release, treat it the same way as the old pedal parking brakes, pull the handle to release so pull the switch.

To avoid the auto blip when going into first, wait until the RPMs are close to idle before shifting and it won't blip, or stay in SPORT mode, not SPORT PLUS. You can also disable auto-blip in SPORT PLUS by disabling PSM, but beware because it can get very unsettled if you aren't a pro.

The stock shifter, the clutch, and the cables feel great and I enjoy it immensely whether loafing along in 7th making 30+ mpg on the highway or driving it hard and never getting above 3rd gear.

IXLR8

Absolutely nothing. The shifting is positive and crisp.

As for RPMs, I always keep it under 3000 till the coolant and oil temperatures are steady at normal operating temperatures and engine temperature has stabilized. What is the rush, I respect my engines be it on 2 or 4 wheels and in aircraft. Then I'll shift anywhere from 4000 to 6500.

996scott

The OEM shifter is just fine. Spend some time getting familiar and comfortable with the car before making any changes or upgrades. As far as shifting goes, once the car is warmed up, keep the rpms up. The car is a lot more fun above 4,000. I usually shift between 5-7,000.

WP0

Thanks for the reminder about lugging. Here’s a rather informative video about the damage that lugging the engine does, particularly with respect to low speed pre ignition, as explained by Engineering Explained:

Valvefloat991

I'm sorry, but this guy is an ignorant clown. I could write 1000 words about the numerous errors in his presentation, but he starts making mistakes from the start.

He says that at low rpm the engine will have to work harder and be less efficient. In fact, the engine working harder makes it MORE efficient because it reduces pumping losses and also reduces the influence of engine friction. This is precisely why in modern engines with automatic transmissions, they are programmed to shift into high gear as quickly as possible and resist downshifting as long as possible. This low-rpm bias is how a PDK operates in normal mode to operate MORE efficiently and improve fuel economy.

Obviously, this more efficient operation does not transfer more heat into the engine block, but less. I could go on in this vein, but this guy really is clueless.

asellus

Oh? I would have figured an engine at peak load for a given RPM is less efficient than the same engine making the same amount of power at less-than-peak load at a slightly higher RPM. Obviously it's a curve, but the blanket statement above doesn't seem right.

Valvefloat991

Basically, the higher the load, the greater the efficiency. Part of it is pumping losses. during the intake stroke, when the piston is sucking in the intake charge, it is performing negative work because the pressure above the piston crown, which is manifold pressure, is lower than the pressure below the piston, which is roughly atmospheric. At part load, the engine is throttled, thus there is manifold vacuum, which the piston is working against on the intake stroke. The higher the load, the smaller the vacuum, reducing the negative work during the intake stroke.

Then there's friction, which has a major rpm component. If the engine requirement is for x horsepower, there will be less friction if that power is developed at higher load and lower rpm than at the opposite.

These factors are also the main reason that small engines get better fuel economy than large engines. An any given speed and load, they are working harder, which is more efficient.

asellus

surely if that were the case then the maximum efficiency would be WOT with a CVT keeping the RPMs just above idle, right?