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PSE Install - exhaust not switching over

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Old 12-11-2022, 12:49 PM
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dannyk304
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Default PSE Install - exhaust not switching over

Hi - I just installed the PSE kit on my 2016 C2 with a brand new kit I got from Suncoast, came with everything including new switch console. I did the entire install myself, the vacuum lines and wiring into the cabin, grounded where indicted and wired all the way into the computer under the driver's seat plugged into the A2 slot as directed, went to the dealer and paid almost 400$ (sort of ridiculous but whatever) to have the new switch console programmed. However, the button doesn't activate the flap actuators on the center muffler. The light on the PSE button lights up, seems to work fine, turns on automatically when in sport, I can turn it on or off at a press of the button. However, it doesn't translate to the actuators. The service tech said he could look at it some other day but at a pretty heavy cost but advised me to check if the COV is getting power. I bought a multimeter and tested the harness that attaches to the COV - reads .61 Volts, whether button is on (lit up) or off. so I guess it's getting power, means I did the wiring sufficiently OK? I am stuck, not sure what else it can be? The COV is brand new as part of the retrofit kit. Anyone with insight? Any help is greatly appreciated - @plenum if you see this, I know you have some excellent knowledge and information out there on COVs, any chance you know the voltage/amperage I should be reading at the harness for the COV? does .61 Volts make sense? shouldn't it be different depending on when it's on or off? anyone who can add some insight, I would be grateful.
Old 12-11-2022, 04:02 PM
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El_Tigre
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I believe vacuum actually closes the valves, so maybe try popping off the vacuum line to see if they open?
Old 12-11-2022, 04:37 PM
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dannyk304
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Originally Posted by El_Tigre
I believe vacuum actually closes the valves, so maybe try popping off the vacuum line to see if they open?
Thank you for the response - its only in open (loud) so clearly it's not getting vacuum to the actuators (I have no leaks or issues with the vacuum lines I installed.) My issue is the button doesn't quiet the exhaust (which is happily a better problem than the reverse!) I'm thinking the problem is in power supply to the COV for PSE - like it's not getting power and switching the COV over. It's off 100% of the time, I installed the button and paid for the PSE to work like factory. I tested the power lines at the end where it connects with the COV and I'm getting almost no amps (it was like .058) and a constant 0.61 Volts. I'm assuming it should be 12 V...?? but given it's getting even .61 V doesn't that indicate the power is connected? or did I mess up the ground or power lead somewhere and thus just a trickle of volts?
Old 12-11-2022, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dannyk304
Hi - I just installed the PSE kit on my 2016 C2 with a brand new kit I got from Suncoast, came with everything including new switch console. I did the entire install myself, the vacuum lines and wiring into the cabin, grounded where indicted and wired all the way into the computer under the driver's seat plugged into the A2 slot as directed, went to the dealer and paid almost 400$ (sort of ridiculous but whatever) to have the new switch console programmed. However, the button doesn't activate the flap actuators on the center muffler. The light on the PSE button lights up, seems to work fine, turns on automatically when in sport, I can turn it on or off at a press of the button. However, it doesn't translate to the actuators. The service tech said he could look at it some other day but at a pretty heavy cost but advised me to check if the COV is getting power. I bought a multimeter and tested the harness that attaches to the COV - reads .61 Volts, whether button is on (lit up) or off. so I guess it's getting power, means I did the wiring sufficiently OK? I am stuck, not sure what else it can be? The COV is brand new as part of the retrofit kit. Anyone with insight? Any help is greatly appreciated - @plenum if you see this, I know you have some excellent knowledge and information out there on COVs, any chance you know the voltage/amperage I should be reading at the harness for the COV? does .61 Volts make sense? shouldn't it be different depending on when it's on or off? anyone who can add some insight, I would be grateful.
My local Porsche dealer spent one week trying to figure out the same problem and they checked every cable/valve in the car. After engaging with Porsche they are recommending a new ECU. Waiting on the part to arrive now. I will let you know if it works. Please do the same.

I ordered the same kit from Suncoast but my car is a C2S so didn’t need running cables and just the center muffler.
Old 12-11-2022, 04:50 PM
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dannyk304
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Originally Posted by waoudi
My local Porsche dealer spent one week trying to figure out the same problem and they checked every cable/valve in the car. After engaging with Porsche they are recommending a new ECU. Waiting on the part to arrive now. I will let you know if it works. Please do the same.

I ordered the same kit from Suncoast but my car is a C2S so didn’t need running cables and just the center muffler.
Thanks for the input and I will update this post as I try something new and finally have it resolved. I really hope I don't need a new ECU, probably wouldn't do it for just this anyway. The Porsche technician said Piwis showed no open circuits or shorts or other issues. He was under the impression the power wasn't reaching the COV, I think I'm at the point of having to retrace all the wiring I did meaning stripping the interior bare again. Joy. The only reason I haven't yet was I'm perplexed why, when I test the power at the end of the harness where it connects with the COV, it reads .61 Volts - if it has a reading doesn't that indicate it's connected fine? Or conversely, would this indicate a very poor connection that needs attention? I'm just not well versed with electrical theory.
Old 12-17-2022, 09:40 AM
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Were you able to resolve your issue? My car was fixed after a replacement of the rear-engine control unit which apparently had a fault that wasn’t popping up anywhere.

Old 12-17-2022, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by waoudi
Were you able to resolve your issue? My car was fixed after a replacement of the rear-engine control unit which apparently had a fault that wasn’t popping up anywhere.
Hi - no, unfortunately I haven't yet sourced the issue. The kit I installed was brand new including the COV that controls the exhaust flaps so I doubt it's faulty (but it may be?) I rechecked the electric connection I wired and it is fine - when I switch the car on (but not ignite the engine) and press the PSE button, I hear a very audible click from the rear when I turn it on and again another click when I turn it off. That tells me it's getting power but for some reason it doesn't translate to closing the flaps. My next endeavor is to take apart the engine bay again and check over the vacuum lines, and I'm thinking I'll switch the new COV for the one used by the Symposer to see if that's the source. I'm running out of ideas after that.

If you are up for it, can you check if you hear the audible click as well when you press the button - car on but not started, I hear that click from the engine bay with every press of the PSE. Thank you!
Old 12-17-2022, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by dannyk304
Hi - no, unfortunately I haven't yet sourced the issue. The kit I installed was brand new including the COV that controls the exhaust flaps so I doubt it's faulty (but it may be?) I rechecked the electric connection I wired and it is fine - when I switch the car on (but not ignite the engine) and press the PSE button, I hear a very audible click from the rear when I turn it on and again another click when I turn it off. That tells me it's getting power but for some reason it doesn't translate to closing the flaps. My next endeavor is to take apart the engine bay again and check over the vacuum lines, and I'm thinking I'll switch the new COV for the one used by the Symposer to see if that's the source. I'm running out of ideas after that.

If you are up for it, can you check if you hear the audible click as well when you press the button - car on but not started, I hear that click from the engine bay with every press of the PSE. Thank you!
To be clear I had a brand new exhaust kit from sun coast and the dealer traced everything to verify the issue. Everything was working fine except the controller(button) was not mapping correctly to the right valve to open and close the valves. After speaking to the mother ship they replaced the rear -engine control unit (it’s in the engine bay) and then everything worked. I can check the work order to see if a part number is present and can share it with you if you’re interested.

Regarding the activation sound, yes, I can hear it when I turn on and off. The button always did something prior too but it didn’t do the right thing

good luck with your investigation. I know how frustrating it can be.


Old 12-17-2022, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by waoudi
To be clear I had a brand new exhaust kit from sun coast and the dealer traced everything to verify the issue. Everything was working fine except the controller(button) was not mapping correctly to the right valve to open and close the valves. After speaking to the mother ship they replaced the rear -engine control unit (it’s in the engine bay) and then everything worked. I can check the work order to see if a part number is present and can share it with you if you’re interested.

Regarding the activation sound, yes, I can hear it when I turn on and off. The button always did something prior too but it didn’t do the right thing

good luck with your investigation. I know how frustrating it can be.
Thank you for clarifying, and so I guess I can't just expect "new" to be fine, I'll switch it with another COV and see if that does the trick but yes, if you can find that part number please let me know. Indeed, very frustrating...!
Old 12-17-2022, 01:19 PM
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The replaced part was not part of the kit for a C2S. It was something that was just bad or went bad during install. I don’t know if it’s part of the C2 exhaust kit.
The DME controls the button but the rear engine control unit controls the flaps.
Old 12-17-2022, 02:30 PM
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Default Not 0.6 V

Didn't have time to read the whole thing but 0.6V means you don't have power, check wiring back to source.
Old 12-17-2022, 04:53 PM
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To OP, did everything work properly prior to you putting back your whole interior and then after reassembly, you now have this problem?
Old 12-21-2022, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by VII7
Didn't have time to read the whole thing but 0.6V means you don't have power, check wiring back to source.
Thanks - I checked both the ground and then re-spliced a new connector nicely crimped to the positive wire into the control unite/harness under the driver's seat. No change. With the engine off but car on, I hear an audible click from the engine bay when I hit the PSE button (a click when on and another when pushed off.) However, the exhaust valves don't budge. I ripped apart the engine bay yesterday and checked all the vacuum lines, all was fine and I even swapped the new PSE COV for the old Symposer COV to see if maybe that was the issue, no change. Really out of viable ideas now, just glad the exhaust defaults to open (loud.)
Old 12-21-2022, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack F
To OP, did everything work properly prior to you putting back your whole interior and then after reassembly, you now have this problem?
The exhaust works perfectly, but the button to switch from open to closed (loud to quiet) does nothing - it just stays open. The button, vacuum lines, electric wiring and COV are new, my car is a base and didn't come with any of the vacuum or electric or the switch on the console prior to my install. I got the button programmed at porsche dealership and I'm pretty confident he did a good job. I am pretty sure I did a very close to factory install following the entire retrofit instructions precisely. So I put it all together and ripped up the interior to wire as instructed and put it all together, got it programmed and while the button lights up how it's supposed to it just doesn't switch the flaps.
Old 12-21-2022, 02:01 PM
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I'm not there and someone already posted about a defective ECU but it sounds to me like you are plugged into the wrong terminal or wired ground and ground.
If you hear a clicking this is likely a relay switching so identify which relay this is, check output for power and make sure you are plugged in there.

Also remember the switching is done towards ground so 12 should be supplied continuously from fuse box.
Do you have 12V supplied if you measure against a ground point?
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