jrussell350

Thanks for the feedback. I'm traveling for work right now but when I get back I'll check the fuses. I read another thread where people were having this issue, so it does seem to be somewhat common. I have the 3.8L so it should have already been wired for the valved exhaust. I'm thinking that it's possibly a software issue in the ECU caused when the switch is programmed. This might explain why replacing the ECU fixes the problem. I don't know much about them but I wonder if I could get the dealer or an indy mechanic to reflash it. My only other experience with an ECU was with my C6 Corvette. It had a problem where it would just die about 2 min into a drive. I had two shops try to diagnose it and since there weren't any codes they were stumped. On a whim i bought a refurbished GM ECU online that was coded to my VIN for $130. Installed it in 15 min and the 6 month gremlin was fixed. Anyway I'll keep working on this and post any progress. Thanks again.

GermanCarFan1

https://rennlist.com/forums/991/8002...-on-991-a.html

This might be your issue as mine as I found out today.

jrussell350

Thanks for the link. I actually pulled the COV out yesterday and tested it on another car battery. It doesn’t appear to actuate. I assume it should work on 12V and that it can be heard. So I ordered a new one and it should be here tomorrow. I’m hopeful but still puzzled why I don’t measure any change in voltage from the wire coming from the ECU when the PSE is turned on/off.

GermanCarFan1

Did you pull #4 COV that actuates the PSE? Was it difficult to get to? I'm probably looking at the same issue.

Did you purchase this one? F
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...M&bc=c&SVSVSI=

or this one?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...M&bc=c&SVSVSI=

jrussell350

I ordered the “C” because I didn’t want to buy the extra harness required for the “F.” I had a “B” which I believe is the original. I don’t know which number it was but I traced the PSE vacuum line to the side nozzle of this COV. It wasn’t too difficult to get to but a little fiddly. The fact that several people have said their dealer couldn’t figure it out makes me think I’m just throwing parts at the problem.

jrussell350

Success!!! It my case it turned out to be the COV. Hopefully that’s your problem too.

GermanCarFan1

Thanks for the update. Just ordered mine up...hoping this solves the issues and not something deeper into the car!

dannyk304

I'm glad you solved it. However, that isn't my issue - I had a brand new COV as part of the kit. I also thought it was a possibility so I exchanged it with the Symposer COV and no change - the new COV works fine for the Symposer but still no actuation on the exhaust valve.

jrussell350

Any luck?

GermanCarFan1

Just came in late this afternoon from Pelican. Question...were you able to swap it out through the top side/engine fan cover or access it from the rear wheel well just like plugs and coils after taking the passenger rear wheel off. I'm looking at a diagram of where it's located, which way is more viable to gain access. Eager to see if that's my issue too.

jrussell350

I didn’t even consider going in through the wheel well but that doesn’t mean it wouldn’t be a better approach. I went through the top which is fairly straightforward but it’s still a little tight. I have a ducktail so I’m not sure if that makes it easier or harder. Once I gained access I rocked it back and forth to detach it from the clip (I think up is off). The wiring connector pulls off when the metal release is pressed in. Then pull off each of the 3 vacuum lines. The lower line didn’t come off the COV but instead pulled out of the T-couple just below it. Even out of the car I had to cut the vacuum line to get it off the COV (maybe 3/8”). Again a bit fiddly but not awful.

GermanCarFan1

I have a the TechArt type II rear spoiler...I pulled that to try and gain more room for access...even my wife's arm was a tight fit. I took the wheel off and pulled the shield for the plugs and coils, took out the middle coil for more hand/arm room. It actually was better than going through the top side for me and visually you can see everything...but its such a PITA for little connector.

The result = nothing changed, at the time. Went back at it to see if the vacuum line coming from the COV to the valves was damaged or impeded in anyway..and it was. So replaced the section of vacuum line and it works now. The old COV was bad.

All good and working properly.