P0068 MAP/MAF
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
P0068 MAP/MAF
I just had the CEL come on. Scanned it and it looks like its only this MAP/MAF code by itself. Not much luck on a search. Anyone have experience with it’s location?
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
I’m assuming the sensor would be accessible with the fan cover removed? Looks like it’ll be on top of the throttle body. I’ll have to take a look in the a.m.
#4
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Mmmm, I think one of the intake plenum installation PDFs shows where this sensor is. Not at my home base at the moment so I can't dig it up for you, but I think it's the IPD one.
If memory serves, the sensor is on the back (firewall-side) of the intake manifold and it's a pain in the *** to get to. If that is indeed where the sensor is, then lowering the engine a few inches is recommended to gain clearance (which isn't nearly as daunting as it sounds).
If memory serves, the sensor is on the back (firewall-side) of the intake manifold and it's a pain in the *** to get to. If that is indeed where the sensor is, then lowering the engine a few inches is recommended to gain clearance (which isn't nearly as daunting as it sounds).
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Mmmm, I think one of the intake plenum installation PDFs shows where this sensor is. Not at my home base at the moment so I can't dig it up for you, but I think it's the IPD one.
If memory serves, the sensor is on the back (firewall-side) of the intake manifold and it's a pain in the *** to get to. If that is indeed where the sensor is, then lowering the engine a few inches is recommended to gain clearance (which isn't nearly as daunting as it sounds).
If memory serves, the sensor is on the back (firewall-side) of the intake manifold and it's a pain in the *** to get to. If that is indeed where the sensor is, then lowering the engine a few inches is recommended to gain clearance (which isn't nearly as daunting as it sounds).
I'll have to get pictures of the replacement when it comes in to help the next guy with the same issue. I have been feeling a little bit of hesitation from 2-3k rpm since I've had the car so I'm wondering if this was the reason why.
Last edited by RP4S911; 10-17-2022 at 10:07 AM.
#6
The above shows the correct location. I changed mine out not too long ago using the torx bit in a ratchet box wrench. One screw, and DONT DROP IT!!! It took all of 10 min to do, and honestly for me it was unnecessary. The code was from the absolutely packed with dirt air filters that had not been changed for 25k miles. The part is cheap. I had the same code. The engine was requesting more air and wanted to add more fuel for more go. The air volumes could not be met, and therefore a code was thrown. Finding why there is a code is more difficult than just changing the part that is rather simple in construction, and is pretty robust. They don’t “break” often.
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
The above shows the correct location. I changed mine out not too long ago using the torx bit in a ratchet box wrench. One screw, and DONT DROP IT!!! It took all of 10 min to do, and honestly for me it was unnecessary. The code was from the absolutely packed with dirt air filters that had not been changed for 25k miles. The part is cheap. I had the same code. The engine was requesting more air and wanted to add more fuel for more go. The air volumes could not be met, and therefore a code was thrown. Finding why there is a code is more difficult than just changing the part that is rather simple in construction, and is pretty robust. They don’t “break” often.
My air filters were replaced just a few thousand miles ago, and looking in there with the intake removed the filters looked very clean (still bright white with no visible debris either). Not touching anything other than the sensor and cleaning it, upon reinstall the code did not come back on (which it consistently came back on less than 5min upon start, after clearing the code) and seemed to smooth out the idle. That pretty much pointed towards just being the sensor for now. I was surprised there weren't any other codes along with it.
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#8
Im dealing with this now and have the same P0068 code, thrown 4 days ago. The concerning thing is it threw a couple hours after doing an oil change and going to lunch.
I cleared the code once and it reappeared after about 5-10 minutes of driving.
Not sure if I caused it, or it was just a coincidence when it failed. The only thing I can think is that while waiting for the oil to drain during the change, I cleaned up the fans and cover with a light application of 303. While I wiped the cover, I just let the 303 sit on the fans under the cover. Theoretically some 303 might have been drawn off the fans and into the filters, but their there wasn’t any liquid on the fans by the time I drove. it seems highly unlikely it would’ve fouled the MAP/MAF sensor. The other possibility is maybe I dislodged a vacuum line when removing the filter or the sensor just failed.
After pulling the fans and intake, nothing looks unusual and there are no obvious lines disconnected or broken.
Thanks to this thread I was able pull the sensor. A 4mm allen will grab the torx screw that holds it in place. It is nerve wracking because you can’t see what you’re doing and there’s little room for being clumsy, but it’s not a difficult task, just make quarter turns by feel and it will come out with little torque.
I’ve ordered a new sensor and new air filters, so we’ll see if that helps. When I pull the bumper to do the filters I’ll get a better look at the vacuum lines.
Finally, if all else fails I have an appointment at my mechanic.
I cleared the code once and it reappeared after about 5-10 minutes of driving.
Not sure if I caused it, or it was just a coincidence when it failed. The only thing I can think is that while waiting for the oil to drain during the change, I cleaned up the fans and cover with a light application of 303. While I wiped the cover, I just let the 303 sit on the fans under the cover. Theoretically some 303 might have been drawn off the fans and into the filters, but their there wasn’t any liquid on the fans by the time I drove. it seems highly unlikely it would’ve fouled the MAP/MAF sensor. The other possibility is maybe I dislodged a vacuum line when removing the filter or the sensor just failed.
After pulling the fans and intake, nothing looks unusual and there are no obvious lines disconnected or broken.
Thanks to this thread I was able pull the sensor. A 4mm allen will grab the torx screw that holds it in place. It is nerve wracking because you can’t see what you’re doing and there’s little room for being clumsy, but it’s not a difficult task, just make quarter turns by feel and it will come out with little torque.
I’ve ordered a new sensor and new air filters, so we’ll see if that helps. When I pull the bumper to do the filters I’ll get a better look at the vacuum lines.
Finally, if all else fails I have an appointment at my mechanic.
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Im dealing with this now and have the same P0068 code, thrown 4 days ago. The concerning thing is it threw a couple hours after doing an oil change and going to lunch.
I cleared the code once and it reappeared after about 5-10 minutes of driving.
Not sure if I caused it, or it was just a coincidence when it failed. The only thing I can think is that while waiting for the oil to drain during the change, I cleaned up the fans and cover with a light application of 303. While I wiped the cover, I just let the 303 sit on the fans under the cover. Theoretically some 303 might have been drawn off the fans and into the filters, but their there wasn’t any liquid on the fans by the time I drove. it seems highly unlikely it would’ve fouled the MAP/MAF sensor. The other possibility is maybe I dislodged a vacuum line when removing the filter or the sensor just failed.
After pulling the fans and intake, nothing looks unusual and there are no obvious lines disconnected or broken.
Thanks to this thread I was able pull the sensor. A 4mm allen will grab the torx screw that holds it in place. It is nerve wracking because you can’t see what you’re doing and there’s little room for being clumsy, but it’s not a difficult task, just make quarter turns by feel and it will come out with little torque.
I’ve ordered a new sensor and new air filters, so we’ll see if that helps. When I pull the bumper to do the filters I’ll get a better look at the vacuum lines.
Finally, if all else fails I have an appointment at my mechanic.
I cleared the code once and it reappeared after about 5-10 minutes of driving.
Not sure if I caused it, or it was just a coincidence when it failed. The only thing I can think is that while waiting for the oil to drain during the change, I cleaned up the fans and cover with a light application of 303. While I wiped the cover, I just let the 303 sit on the fans under the cover. Theoretically some 303 might have been drawn off the fans and into the filters, but their there wasn’t any liquid on the fans by the time I drove. it seems highly unlikely it would’ve fouled the MAP/MAF sensor. The other possibility is maybe I dislodged a vacuum line when removing the filter or the sensor just failed.
After pulling the fans and intake, nothing looks unusual and there are no obvious lines disconnected or broken.
Thanks to this thread I was able pull the sensor. A 4mm allen will grab the torx screw that holds it in place. It is nerve wracking because you can’t see what you’re doing and there’s little room for being clumsy, but it’s not a difficult task, just make quarter turns by feel and it will come out with little torque.
I’ve ordered a new sensor and new air filters, so we’ll see if that helps. When I pull the bumper to do the filters I’ll get a better look at the vacuum lines.
Finally, if all else fails I have an appointment at my mechanic.
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evannever (01-20-2023)
#10
New sensor did it for me. I believe it's not a MAF anymore in the 991, it's a MAP (for pressure), so maybe the 303 is just a coincidence? I thought it could have been dirty/clogged filters causing it too, but they were still nice and clean when I looked down into the inlets with everything off. What you're explaining is exactly how it was for me; It would come right back on after a little driving.
What hurts though is the realization that it probably wasn’t my sensor at all… As I was in there struggling, I glanced over and noticed the oil filler cap wasn’t seated all the way. I didn’t notice from the top looking down, but I only had one tab of the oil filler cap seated. Now the intake pressure differential reading makes perfect sense. So hopefully the next guy who gets a P0068 after an oil change will check that first. FWIW, nothing on the web pointed to that.
I put in the new filters, buttoned up the bumper cover and took it for a spirited 15 mile drive… no codes.
#11
Nordschleife Master
Thanks for the follow up. Good to know and what to look out for.
#12
Had same error but it was very intermittent. Would clear it and it wouldnt return for ~3-7 days. Cleaned air filters (BMCs); nothing. Replaced MAP; nothing. This past weekend, replaced throttle body, and the 'permanent' CEL went away, and so far new CEL, so I think it was the TB acting up. Car has almost 73,000 miles 2015 991.1 GTS.
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Porsche_nuts (03-21-2024)
#13
Sounds like periodic replacement of the gasket under the oil filler cap might be a good preventative maintenance step, too, along with those for the Coolant Cap and the Fuel Cap.
#14
Had same error but it was very intermittent. Would clear it and it wouldnt return for ~3-7 days. Cleaned air filters (BMCs); nothing. Replaced MAP; nothing. This past weekend, replaced throttle body, and the 'permanent' CEL went away, and so far new CEL, so I think it was the TB acting up. Car has almost 73,000 miles 2015 991.1 GTS.
So, search continues.
#15
Update for others: mechanic conducted a smoke test and found leaky/faulty PCV valves/hoses. Replaced all of them, cleared code. Code returned a few days later. Waiting on their next idea.