Best Brake Pads for Street and DE
03-08-2024, 04:29 PM
#61
Rennlist Member
I think you'll like the 3.12's. I run the fronts on the AP comp kit.
I switched from RE-10's years ago, and pedal effort is WAY less. After you adapt, you'll never miss having to stand on the brakes from hi-speed.
I just put my 2500's in for a month of street driving, and it felt like something was wrong with the brakes (so much more effort).
If you already have 1.11 rears, leave them in or bring them to the track. Will at WRT (pro) suggested running Dsuno rears to stabilze the rear end under hi-speed braking.
That worked! And @dsddcd mentioned running 1.11's rears with the 3.12 fronts for advanced drivers.
I switched from RE-10's years ago, and pedal effort is WAY less. After you adapt, you'll never miss having to stand on the brakes from hi-speed.
I just put my 2500's in for a month of street driving, and it felt like something was wrong with the brakes (so much more effort).
If you already have 1.11 rears, leave them in or bring them to the track. Will at WRT (pro) suggested running Dsuno rears to stabilze the rear end under hi-speed braking.
That worked! And @dsddcd mentioned running 1.11's rears with the 3.12 fronts for advanced drivers.
03-08-2024, 04:45 PM
#62
Rennlist Member
03-08-2024, 05:02 PM
#63
Irunalot, I hear you on pedal pressure.
MX72+ I never felt like I would pull up every time at the track.
ME20 Was a lot better, but as i got a lot faster, I was burning through them at a fast rate. Later in the day they would cause me to come in.
N35S - I’m in love at the track. I can brake smooth and gentle. I don’t have to jam the pedal down. Confidence inspiring. It’s less tiring. I never felt ever that they would not pull up. Never pitted once due to brakes. Tyres go off, but brakes were endless. They are a little harsher on rotors than ME20. But the N35S take everything you throw at them.
RE10 They are supposed to be the greatest thing on the planet. They have some huge shoes to fill to be better than N35S. I will say on very first freezing cold application on the street RE-10 is friendlier than N35S. N35S does need that tiny bit of warmth. But from then, the hotter you get them, the less effort it takes to pull up.
I haven’t driven the RE-10 in full anger yet. But I look forward to seeing what they do under pressure.
For everyone reading ME20 is the best all rounder. 🤣
This advertisement has been brought to you by 4 Point 0 and Endless 🤣. No. I have no affiliation with Endless.
I’m not even currently using them. Lets see if RE-10 lives up to the hype that they last forever and are gentle on the rotors. But more importantly, they need to pull the car up as well as N35S do.
Last edited by 4 Point 0; 03-08-2024 at 05:05 PM.
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IRunalot (03-08-2024)
03-08-2024, 06:04 PM
#64
Rennlist Member
I ran the RE10's on 350mm Girodiscs. They do last forever, and are easy on rotors. Compared to 3.12's, they are on the opposite end of the spectrum as far as mu/torque. Takes a lot more pressure to get to threshold braking.
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4 Point 0 (03-08-2024)
03-08-2024, 06:11 PM
#65
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I purchased new ME20's from a fellow RLer - two sets front and one set rear. I agree they are money for track days. For street, not so much (for me). They are noisy. I don't have (or know if they exist) backing shim plates for them, just bare brake pads, but they are noisy. When I first drive back from full track day and I've gotten the ME20 pad transfer on my rotors they are quiet, but that doesn't last long. Then they are noisy and stay that way. Luckily I have a two post lift with caliper studs and long(er) SS brake lines so I just swap back to OEM pads until next track day - probably 2-3 for the 6 months where I live with my 991T.
Everyone's comfort zone is different for brake squeal, but for me ME20's are too noisy for daily driving.
If there is an ME20 backing plate that is available and noticeably reduces squeal, I'm all ears...
Everyone's comfort zone is different for brake squeal, but for me ME20's are too noisy for daily driving.
If there is an ME20 backing plate that is available and noticeably reduces squeal, I'm all ears...
03-08-2024, 06:53 PM
#66
Rennlist Member
For all those jumping to 3.12 compound on 200TW tires, I offer a FRIENDLY challenge to put your data up against mine on the 1.11. Let's look at brake traces and really see if they are faster, or if they just feel better because you don't have as much effort?
Needing pressure to get to threshold braking is a GOOD thing. Let's take the 981 GT4 Clubsport as an example. It came in two versions, boosted brakes and non-boosted. The latter was considered the "pro" set-up. I raced the latter. It took a minimum of 1200psi to be functional on the brakes, 1600 psi to be good, and 1800-2100psi would be achieved by a Pro driver. This is MASSIVE pressure, I had specific workouts to address the need for physical strength and endurance. You want this effort because it creates a much larger window to modulate and fine tune how much braking you need. Real race cars don't need brake boost, the driver does the work. Same for pads. And if the torque of the pad exceeds the grip of your tires, its just wasted anyway.
I will post my data to analyze between the two pads shortly, with same driver and same equipment. And I'll have my subjective comments as well.
Needing pressure to get to threshold braking is a GOOD thing. Let's take the 981 GT4 Clubsport as an example. It came in two versions, boosted brakes and non-boosted. The latter was considered the "pro" set-up. I raced the latter. It took a minimum of 1200psi to be functional on the brakes, 1600 psi to be good, and 1800-2100psi would be achieved by a Pro driver. This is MASSIVE pressure, I had specific workouts to address the need for physical strength and endurance. You want this effort because it creates a much larger window to modulate and fine tune how much braking you need. Real race cars don't need brake boost, the driver does the work. Same for pads. And if the torque of the pad exceeds the grip of your tires, its just wasted anyway.
I will post my data to analyze between the two pads shortly, with same driver and same equipment. And I'll have my subjective comments as well.
03-08-2024, 07:00 PM
#67
Rennlist Member
For all those jumping to 3.12 compound on 200TW tires, I offer a FRIENDLY challenge to put your data up against mine on the 1.11. Let's look at brake traces and really see if they are faster, or if they just feel better because you don't have as much effort?
Needing pressure to get to threshold braking is a GOOD thing. Let's take the 981 GT4 Clubsport as an example. It came in two versions, boosted brakes and non-boosted. The latter was considered the "pro" set-up. I raced the latter. It took a minimum of 1200psi to be functional on the brakes, 1600 psi to be good, and 1800-2100psi would be achieved by a Pro driver. This is MASSIVE pressure, I had specific workouts to address the need for physical strength and endurance. You want this effort because it creates a much larger window to modulate and fine tune how much braking you need. Real race cars don't need brake boost, the driver does the work. Same for pads. And if the torque of the pad exceeds the grip of your tires, its just wasted anyway.
I will post my data to analyze between the two pads shortly, with same driver and same equipment. And I'll have my subjective comments as well.
Needing pressure to get to threshold braking is a GOOD thing. Let's take the 981 GT4 Clubsport as an example. It came in two versions, boosted brakes and non-boosted. The latter was considered the "pro" set-up. I raced the latter. It took a minimum of 1200psi to be functional on the brakes, 1600 psi to be good, and 1800-2100psi would be achieved by a Pro driver. This is MASSIVE pressure, I had specific workouts to address the need for physical strength and endurance. You want this effort because it creates a much larger window to modulate and fine tune how much braking you need. Real race cars don't need brake boost, the driver does the work. Same for pads. And if the torque of the pad exceeds the grip of your tires, its just wasted anyway.
I will post my data to analyze between the two pads shortly, with same driver and same equipment. And I'll have my subjective comments as well.
Last edited by IRunalot; 03-08-2024 at 07:10 PM.
03-08-2024, 07:48 PM
#68
Different pads play differently depending on what rotor they are mated to as well.
I tried RSL29 on stock rotors and it was a Psycho horror movie squeal. Didn’t matter hot or cold, track or street, they just squealed like a stuck pig.
With Brembo type III, the only time ME20 squealed was cold on street a small peep just before coming to a complete rest. It was less than my stock setup, but stock set up was higher pitched and went right through you.
Most good pads are quiet for a day or two after a track day because of transfer. But I have found everything comes back to have some on the street.
Going catless solves the problem completely. You can’t hear anything over the engine 🤣
03-08-2024, 08:10 PM
#69
Rennlist Member
Agreed. Everyone’s tolerance is different.
Different pads play differently depending on what rotor they are mated to as well.
I tried RSL29 on stock rotors and it was a Psycho horror movie squeal. Didn’t matter hot or cold, track or street, they just squealed like a stuck pig.
With Brembo type III, the only time ME20 squealed was cold on street a small peep just before coming to a complete rest. It was less than my stock setup, but stock set up was higher pitched and went right through you.
Most good pads are quiet for a day or two after a track day because of transfer. But I have found everything comes back to have some on the street.
Going catless solves the problem completely. You can’t hear anything over the engine 🤣
Different pads play differently depending on what rotor they are mated to as well.
I tried RSL29 on stock rotors and it was a Psycho horror movie squeal. Didn’t matter hot or cold, track or street, they just squealed like a stuck pig.
With Brembo type III, the only time ME20 squealed was cold on street a small peep just before coming to a complete rest. It was less than my stock setup, but stock set up was higher pitched and went right through you.
Most good pads are quiet for a day or two after a track day because of transfer. But I have found everything comes back to have some on the street.
Going catless solves the problem completely. You can’t hear anything over the engine 🤣
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4 Point 0 (03-11-2024)
03-08-2024, 09:45 PM
#70
Rennlist Member
For all those jumping to 3.12 compound on 200TW tires, I offer a FRIENDLY challenge to put your data up against mine on the 1.11. Let's look at brake traces and really see if they are faster, or if they just feel better because you don't have as much effort?
Needing pressure to get to threshold braking is a GOOD thing. Let's take the 981 GT4 Clubsport as an example. It came in two versions, boosted brakes and non-boosted. The latter was considered the "pro" set-up. I raced the latter. It took a minimum of 1200psi to be functional on the brakes, 1600 psi to be good, and 1800-2100psi would be achieved by a Pro driver. This is MASSIVE pressure, I had specific workouts to address the need for physical strength and endurance. You want this effort because it creates a much larger window to modulate and fine tune how much braking you need. Real race cars don't need brake boost, the driver does the work. Same for pads. And if the torque of the pad exceeds the grip of your tires, its just wasted anyway.
I will post my data to analyze between the two pads shortly, with same driver and same equipment. And I'll have my subjective comments as well.
Needing pressure to get to threshold braking is a GOOD thing. Let's take the 981 GT4 Clubsport as an example. It came in two versions, boosted brakes and non-boosted. The latter was considered the "pro" set-up. I raced the latter. It took a minimum of 1200psi to be functional on the brakes, 1600 psi to be good, and 1800-2100psi would be achieved by a Pro driver. This is MASSIVE pressure, I had specific workouts to address the need for physical strength and endurance. You want this effort because it creates a much larger window to modulate and fine tune how much braking you need. Real race cars don't need brake boost, the driver does the work. Same for pads. And if the torque of the pad exceeds the grip of your tires, its just wasted anyway.
I will post my data to analyze between the two pads shortly, with same driver and same equipment. And I'll have my subjective comments as well.
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4 Point 0 (03-09-2024)
04-11-2024, 03:41 PM
#71
I just had my local and trusted shop, Flat6 Motorsports, order me a set of the AP Racing BBK with the DS2500 pads. Will be getting them installed in a week or two. Looking forwards to it.
Last edited by jhdez1969; 04-11-2024 at 03:42 PM. Reason: more context.
04-13-2024, 05:32 PM
#72
Rennlist Member
for the street, i highly recommend brembo's ceramic brake pads. They fix the 2 most annoying things about porsche brakes, the squealing completely goes away, and the brake dust is reduced by about 85%. There is supposedly a slight performance hit, but i havent noticed, the car brakes exactly like it did with the stock pads. The only thing i do notice is that the initial bite is a little more aggressive with the stock porsche pads, then it is with the ceramics. Just something i got used to, and am very happy with them. I was so happy with them, i put them on my cayenne as well.
04-13-2024, 06:33 PM
#73
Three Wheelin'
Been using RSL 29s for three years. Used four sets. Unless your thoroughly bed them they squeal loudly. Bedding properly on public streets is difficult. After the first track session they were fine. The bedding film will gradually wear off with normal street driving. Would probably use DS3.12s for the track, but can't beat the FCPEuro Lifetime warranty for the rotors and pads.