When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
this does not make sense to me - why do you do this?
do you feel the ramps will crush?
Rhinoramps if used properly are totally fine, but I prefer another level of protection for two reasons:
1) I only have one head.
2) Rhinoramps are made of hollow plastic with various seams and can fail, here is a video, granted most likely due to a mistake/misuse:
On the 991.2, the drain is toward the front of the pan. So if you lift the back end only, you'll drain out more of the old oil than if level. I drained & refilled over 9.3 QTS even though people say that's too much to add but it wasn't and I measured carefully and ensured that I did not overfill. Again, that was on a 991.2.
This is the right answer. Back the car up on ramps so that oil pan drain hole is at the lowest point. I easily get 9 liters / 9.5 quarts out during every change using this method. If you're doing it differently you're probably leaving more old oil in the engine than necessary. This method is so reliable that I don't have to underfill, measure, then top off. It's exactly 9 liters every time.
I’d recommend race ramps. They have 10” lift with low profile degree and are solid so theres no real risk of collapse. Paired with a schwaben low profile aluminum jack and a few steel jack stands it gives lots of options on lifting quick and safe.
(If you add the RR 10 inches to clearance you already have from the floor to the belly pans of the car, its definitely enough room to work.)
I'm in Florida, and was concerned about the viscosity degradation showing on my last two Blackstone reports, using factory fill Mobil 1 0W-40. So earlier this year I switched to the thicker Mobil 1 5W-50. More discussion on this oil is here:
Also, and it may just be me, but I've noticed the engine is less noisy at first startup after sitting for 2-3 days, with less ticking and valve clatter the first few miles, using the 5W-50. My next OCI is Feb, so I will submit get a report on this past year to confirm the viscosity improvement with the 5W-50, or not.
Yes, you will need to have the oil maintenance minder reset, either by the dealer, or an indy with the right tool, or you can do it DIY with e.g. an Autel tool (approx $100). I DIY, and bought the Autel:
If I had to do it over again, I would not buy this one, but I'd get a slightly better one that also reset the Battery Maintenance System. (I put in a new battery in August, and had to schmooze a BMS reset gratis from my SA. Ok, well, to be honest, it was at the same time as an Air Filter job, plus I left them a box of doughnuts on the seat before it went into the shop. Dang if they all didn't disappear though. )
@Rich_Jenkins 2 Questions... So which OBD tool would you buy then? MX808? ICS POR V2.0? or 3.0? I know this has been discussed in other threads but I'd like to know where you'd land on this.
Also, What's the red/black screwdriver handled tool you got there? Is that for drain plug removal?
And while we're at it... What was in the white plastic bag and what about your torque wrench?
Last edited by Tier1Terrier; 11-07-2021 at 09:01 PM.
The garage/driveway I use (buddies house) was designed for my 911 oil change. I am able to get 8.5 quarts out. Maybe 20 minute drain. On a 5k oil change schedule.
I back up to the end of the concrete skirt. Oil collection pan goes on the macadam.
The aluminum one recommended by Ironman will be much lighter and easier to maneuver around the garage, mine is longer reach under the car, to get under suspension etc., and higher maximum lift height (great for SUV's), but the drawback is it's weight.
11-06-2021 | 12:21 AM
)
