DaveGee

Already posted this in the Wheel & Tire forum, but no takers.

What are the unintended consequences of wheels that have been over-torqued? By a lot. Say 250fp instead of 118fp?

(and yes, it was the Porsche dealer).

DaveGee

CSK 911 C4S

Hubs and bolts could be screwed up.

Did you get them loosened again?

DaveGee

Yeah, took all of my #165 jumping on the breaker bar to bust them loose.

DaveGee

Tier1Terrier

Can't be good if by that much but I'm curious how you know what torque spec was used??

DaveGee

Hah, I was waiting for that question. I don’t know for a fact. However, I easily removed the rears first which were presumably torqued to 118fp without a problem. It was only the fronts that required much, much more than twice the effort to break the lug nuts free.

Bottom line: total swag on my part.

DaveGee

rnl

could be rust.

DaveGee

Nope. Wheels were just off the car days earlier for new tires.

DaveGee

barncobob

tire monkey using a 3/4 impact wrench set at WFO..thats why i change my own tires...

asellus

Unfortunately, it's on good will at this point for the dealer to fix it as you've removed them. I'd call your SA as soon as possible and say "hey so I was doing (whatever you were doing that needed removal of wheels) and noticed the fronts were cranked on there exceptionally tight when compared to the rears, any chance I'll need new lugs?"

What happens is the bolts begin to yield -- that is, they stretch. The hub itself could have deformed threads as well, but you'd feel that by putting a new lug bolt in there (or an undamaged one, like from the rear). Usually it's just the bolt.

Along with that, you have issues with deforming or cracking the wheel. There's also the (probably not real) chance of warping the rotor, but that's allegedly an unequal torque problem versus an overtorque problem.

chuckbdc

+1 For safety sake replace all the wheel bolts. By rights the guilty dealer should do that.

911.

Worst case scenario, new studs and new hub.

I would reach out to the dealer that did it and kindly request to have the parts replaced under warranty. More than likely your threads will give out if they havent already. How do they feel if you put in on stud my hand all the way, no wheel on the car?

asellus

... and new front wheels.. :S

keep in mind, they will bottom out on.. something, back there. brake related I believe. see threads about "my 911 moves 3 inches then the wheel locks up" -- culprit is extended wheel lugs still being used after taking a spacer off. @LexVan is familiar with this, I believe.

911.

I havent done this on my 911 yet, but all previous cars before installing stud kits I would take one of the OEM studs and cut a line down the shaft. I would use that stud to clean threads before I installed the new stud kit. The front will come very close to bottoming out but my comment was to get an idea if there is any lag or harshness just going most of the way thru by hand.

How would the wheel be damaged? I guess anything possible but I dont see the wheels being deformed in anyway from 250ft/lbs.

ClassJ

Detorque value does not correlate well at all to initial torque values. ("known as the loosening test")

If you torque a bolt to 100 ft lbs. Its detorque is usually higher.

With that said it should not be double. You are probably fine. With that said an abundantly over cautious thing to do would be to replace the studs and pull the rotors to make sure the hubs are still flat. I don't see the benefit though.

IXIXI

Over torque will stretch the stud and potentially shear. Once done the damage is there even if not evident.