Anyone use anti-seize on their wheel lugs?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Anyone use anti-seize on their wheel lugs?
I’ve seen/read that a small dab of anti-seize is recommended on wheel lugs when removing and replacing wheels. I realize most people probably don’t do it. What are people’s thoughts on this and what anti seize is recommended if at all?
#3
Just a dab smeared on the wheel hub landings, on the hub, where the wheel mates in. That’s it. I just buy normal silver-colored anti-seize at Autozone or similar. Last tube might have been a Permatex brand?
Theres a diagram in the 991.1 service manual pdf that’s floating around that shows where to put anti seize if doing a brake pad and rotor service, if I recall correctly. I’ll see if I can dig it up.
Theres a diagram in the 991.1 service manual pdf that’s floating around that shows where to put anti seize if doing a brake pad and rotor service, if I recall correctly. I’ll see if I can dig it up.
#4
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Just be aware on threads that it will change the applied torque to the threads. The torque that Porsche provides is dry. If you use anti seize, then you need to use a wet torque. There might be a conversion but many agree that this should not be done.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I’ve seen / read about this anecdotally but never have I seen anything from Porsche providing wet and dry torque specs. Seems like a minimal dab of anti seize may do a little good but not much bad.
#6
Pro
The factory service manual says not to grease the wheel bolts, and it includes a technical note regarding this:
Do not grease thread,
shank and under the
head (between screw
head bearing surface
and spherical cap
ring) of the wheel
bolts. Do not grease
bearing surface of the
spherical cap facing
the wheel. If heavily
soiled, clean bolts
first with a lintfree
cloth. Replace
damaged wheel bolts
(rework not
permitted).
Do not grease thread,
shank and under the
head (between screw
head bearing surface
and spherical cap
ring) of the wheel
bolts. Do not grease
bearing surface of the
spherical cap facing
the wheel. If heavily
soiled, clean bolts
first with a lintfree
cloth. Replace
damaged wheel bolts
(rework not
permitted).
Last edited by Southbranch; 04-14-2021 at 12:00 AM.
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#8
Wheel hub landing yesThreads no
#9
https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/104BC52BC4CE1D06802577960030186B/$File/453856_XI_en.pdf
I've spent lots of happy times thumping the rear of German wheel-bolt wheels with my 2 1/2 lb dead blow hammer to knock them off the hubs. I always used paste but dang if they aren't on there pretty firm even without the wheel bolts in place.
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Someone provide verbiage above from Porsche that should be followed.
#11
Burning Brakes
When my bolts are torqued properly, I've never had an issue removing them - ever. I have literally been changing my own wheels for 35+years and have never had an issue.
When I was younger and the stealership put the wheels on, yes, it was a problem getting the lugs/bolts loose as they were of course over-torqued.
I wouldn't mess with anything added to the threads. The last thing you want is a wheel to come loose.
When I was younger and the stealership put the wheels on, yes, it was a problem getting the lugs/bolts loose as they were of course over-torqued.
I wouldn't mess with anything added to the threads. The last thing you want is a wheel to come loose.
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ICU991812 (04-14-2021)
#12
Rennlist Member
#13
Nordschleife Master
Optimoly is a requirement for Center Lock threads. These are torqued to 450 ft/lbs though.
#14
Where did you read that threads are lubed?
Last edited by Carl Over; 04-14-2021 at 02:56 PM.
#15
Instructor
Unless for some reason your bolts are seizing up, or the previoius mechanic really did a number on them with an impact driver, then not needed. There's never been a lug or nut that I could not break loose with a breaker bar. If they were torqued correctly going in, you will not have issues taking them off.