Okay so my 2017 carrera battery has been hard cranking the past month or so, lights dimming etc. today it almost did not start. Took it for a drive but I know the battery is gone, it’s a 12/16 build, I took delivery in August 2017 so the battery is almost 4.5 years old. Well I put it on the tender, and popped the frunk open so I don’t run into an issue before I can replace the battery. I disconnected the frunk light too.

So, what’s all this programming crap after battery replacement? I can I R&R the battery, that’s easy but what what law do I need to do? I read something about steering errors, window errrors, what else?

Finally, which battery? OEM vs Interstate vs Anti gravity LI. I like the sound of the LI as they say they last twice as long as the lead acid.

thanks for the help!

 

I installed the Antigravity 40Ah and haven’t done any reprogramming. ~40 miles later and everything seems to be working as normal.

Being able to do this is darn cool:

 

You'll need to tell the BMS the capacity of the battery if you get a different size battery. Get the same size and it's just like any battery swap on a 1983 Honda Civic. Except with more plastic crap in the way.

Dealer or indy will reprogram for you for a small fee. Otherwise an icarsoft por II is one of the cheaper devices capable of doing this for the home gamer.

as far as what happens if you don't reprogram for the new battery's size.... uhhh, that's a great question. Not really sure. Probably sets your house on fire.

 

so you just took the old battery out and put the new one in and everything works fine? What am I missing? All this crap about reprogramming etc.

I am thinking hard on this anti gravity battery, if they really last twice as long that would be great. I would need to purchase another battery tender for LI batteries.

 

If you need a special charger for the special battery, why don't we change our alternator/charging system in the car for the special battery, too?

 

I installed the 60 AH Antigravity battery in my '14 981 CS about a year ago and it's worked great. The folks at Antigravity said time and time again that no programming is necessary. I believe them but did mine anyway using the IcarSoft Por 2 device just because. I'm totally pleased. BTW, I do use the Li battery tender when I'm not driving for a week or more. That works great as well.

 

I have an antigravity and am a big fan. Realistically though, I don’t expect it to last twice as long as a lead acid battery. My guess is it will last 5-7 years.

 

Thanks, I can’t seem to find an aftermarket lead battery other than from NAPA, it’s 58lbs😳. Interstate does not seem to make Porsche batteries. So, $200 for NAPA, $500 for OEM, $740 for anti gravity.

I am picking up a 110 to 12V converter that plugs into the diagnostic port to provide power to the computer during the switch over, I read that saves all settings as there is continuous 12v power.

any other battery recs?

side note, the OEM battery is 80AH, so how is the 30 or 40 AH anti gravity battery better?

 

Duracell Ultra Platinum Group 48 AGM 48 months. Direct fit with the original OEM 70Ah AGM Banner battery in my 2014 Carrera S. I did not need to reprogram anything. 44lbs and same exact size as OEM Banner. Batteries + usually has some kind of discount going on. I paid @ 185.00 ish. I did not need to keep power to the car during swap and all my setting stayed as they were set. @ 15 min without any power to car.

Disconnecting the cables from the old battery, disconnect the negative first
Connect the new battery in the reverse order, positive then negative

Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM Group 48

 

Batteries Plus has several battery options for less than $200. I didn't lose any settings when I swapped mine.

 

I would confirm the battery is what is failing. Sounds like the alternator isn't doing it's job either. A proper battery tender will recharge and maintain the battery properly extending the life of the battery. 4-5 years shouldn't be the typical life of a battery

 

Yup. I did nothing other than physical swap.

I am using a CTEK Lithium tender FWIW.

 

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/mtx-49/h8

 

This is the one I put in my ‘14 981S. Very easy swap. I kept it on the CTEK, but I still had to reprogram the power windows. That might have been a Cayman thing tho.

Here in FL, I’m doing well to get 4 years from a battery. My ‘17 C2 is about due, I’m sure.

 

if the napa battery is AGM and 80 or 92ah, I'd say go for that. otherwise, as a comparison, call up your BMW dealership and ask for whichever is cheaper, the 80ah or 92ah AGM -- if they need to know a BMW it's for, say a 2001 740 or a 2001 M5. I know BMW's 92ah is ~$185 my cost, the 105ah is $145 but is an H9 battery and as such I don't think fits in a 911, and I have no idea on the 80ah.

if it were me, saving 30 pounds on the wrong side of the car doesn't seem worth a $500 premium, plus whatever special charger cost and the nebulous compatibility with your car's charging system.