DSC + GT3 lower control arms + KW HAS on 991.2 S/GTS
#1
DSC + GT3 lower control arms + KW HAS on 991.2 S/GTS
Hi all! I've been planning on adding the DSC controller to my car for a bit, and while the time hasn't come for that quite yet I'm about to get an alignment and so am now considering throwing on a set of GT3 lower control arms beforehand. I believe that I've read that some feel like the DSC + GT3 LCAs is a great "done" point to make this car handle significantly better without going completely overboard, but I'd love your opinions. The usage will primarily be street driving, though a lot of that is "spirited" (road rallies, club drives, weekend romps, etc.) and it will see occasional track days.
Spec:
991.2 C2S (w/ X51, so GTS power)
PDCC
SPASM
RAS
KW HAS (a bit lower than stock)
Bump steer kit (to correct lowered geo)
PS4S
Spec:
991.2 C2S (w/ X51, so GTS power)
PDCC
SPASM
RAS
KW HAS (a bit lower than stock)
Bump steer kit (to correct lowered geo)
PS4S
#2
Burning Brakes
What are you trying to achieve from the GT3 LCA's?
I am lowered on TechArt springs with the DSC controller on my .2 GTS. The car handles fantastic but I dont think the springs made it handle any better. I did get a proper alignment and maxed out stock camber at -2.2 up front (once lowered)
I am lowered on TechArt springs with the DSC controller on my .2 GTS. The car handles fantastic but I dont think the springs made it handle any better. I did get a proper alignment and maxed out stock camber at -2.2 up front (once lowered)
#3
Rennlist Member
Speaking from experience on a 997.1 - I’d only go adjustable LCAs if you want more camber than you can get out of stock suspension, or if you want to go semi solid/monoball, but that’s a pretty serious move as you’d be increasing NVH.
The following users liked this post:
LWG (01-07-2021)
#4
What are you trying to achieve from the GT3 LCA's?
I am lowered on TechArt springs with the DSC controller on my .2 GTS. The car handles fantastic but I dont think the springs made it handle any better. I did get a proper alignment and maxed out stock camber at -2.2 up front (once lowered)
I am lowered on TechArt springs with the DSC controller on my .2 GTS. The car handles fantastic but I dont think the springs made it handle any better. I did get a proper alignment and maxed out stock camber at -2.2 up front (once lowered)
My 4s spasm can only get -1.7
#5
Burning Brakes
#7
Rennlist Member
You probably already seen this thread, I posted some info about my setup
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...errerid=197918
I have adjustable LCAs on my car which allowed me to get to -3deg negative or more up front. I think GT3 arms is a good choice if you want to drive the car on road trips. Mine has spherical joints and solid adjustable caster pucks, makes for a few clunks and clicks on normal bumpy roads in NorCal. The GT3 arms have adjustability via the spacers but still have some compliance for road use. One thing to bear in mind is that if you lengthen the arms your caster will be out. There are a few ways to correct, one is adjustable solid puck in the control arm or adjustable thrust arm. Based on my experience if I wanted to compromise for road use I would go GT3 arms and adjustable thrust arms (or you could always live with the caster being out if your camber wasn’t too extreme)
I hope this helps.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...errerid=197918
I have adjustable LCAs on my car which allowed me to get to -3deg negative or more up front. I think GT3 arms is a good choice if you want to drive the car on road trips. Mine has spherical joints and solid adjustable caster pucks, makes for a few clunks and clicks on normal bumpy roads in NorCal. The GT3 arms have adjustability via the spacers but still have some compliance for road use. One thing to bear in mind is that if you lengthen the arms your caster will be out. There are a few ways to correct, one is adjustable solid puck in the control arm or adjustable thrust arm. Based on my experience if I wanted to compromise for road use I would go GT3 arms and adjustable thrust arms (or you could always live with the caster being out if your camber wasn’t too extreme)
I hope this helps.
The following users liked this post:
LWG (01-08-2021)
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#10
Just now getting back to this. Thanks for the input; apologies for the delayed response! I ended up passing on LCAs for now. Going to do the DSC controller first (it's on the way) then go back to LCAs if I'm going to spend more time on track.
More camber and steering feel via monoball.
Yep, that was my thinking.
Thanks for the input! I'll definitely revisit this if/when I decide to make this move.
More camber and steering feel via monoball.
You probably already seen this thread, I posted some info about my setup
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...errerid=197918
I have adjustable LCAs on my car which allowed me to get to -3deg negative or more up front. I think GT3 arms is a good choice if you want to drive the car on road trips. Mine has spherical joints and solid adjustable caster pucks, makes for a few clunks and clicks on normal bumpy roads in NorCal. The GT3 arms have adjustability via the spacers but still have some compliance for road use. One thing to bear in mind is that if you lengthen the arms your caster will be out. There are a few ways to correct, one is adjustable solid puck in the control arm or adjustable thrust arm. Based on my experience if I wanted to compromise for road use I would go GT3 arms and adjustable thrust arms (or you could always live with the caster being out if your camber wasn’t too extreme)
I hope this helps.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...errerid=197918
I have adjustable LCAs on my car which allowed me to get to -3deg negative or more up front. I think GT3 arms is a good choice if you want to drive the car on road trips. Mine has spherical joints and solid adjustable caster pucks, makes for a few clunks and clicks on normal bumpy roads in NorCal. The GT3 arms have adjustability via the spacers but still have some compliance for road use. One thing to bear in mind is that if you lengthen the arms your caster will be out. There are a few ways to correct, one is adjustable solid puck in the control arm or adjustable thrust arm. Based on my experience if I wanted to compromise for road use I would go GT3 arms and adjustable thrust arms (or you could always live with the caster being out if your camber wasn’t too extreme)
I hope this helps.
#11
Rennlist Member
I easily get -2.5 with just offset camber plates, assuming you don't care about front track width, Elephant racing or Tarret off center plates work great.