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After looking into the cost and complexity of adding a gt3/2 style wing to my c2, I'm giong to do the techart one. They seriously make adding a wing way too costly and difficult, imo.
TechArt, but do get the front wing. The rear spoiler adds a lot of downforce.
Tell me very slowly and clearly, what i need to buy. 🤣
I have a full GT3 front end. I may now make it 3-RS with trim and vented guards.
That looks mint. So it breaths properly?
Is that just a 2-RS boot bolted straight on? Nothing changed underneath?
Where did you purchase? How much? Can you add the big **** latter if you wanted? Is it genuine OEM Porsche or replica?
Details man. 🤣🤣🤣
I am still wrinkling out items and worked with a vendor (basically ebay rep, unless you want to drop serious coin on the wicked one that costs $15K or OEM @ $20k+). They said they have tweaked theirs based on the info I've given them and are also open to making batches of them or doing group buy(s). However, before that I planned to put together a DIY thread to show what is all involved and how much work it will take to get something like this mounted up for those that are interested and still want to pursue it.
I would recommend a GT2RS not GT3RS as you need the scoop else its a moot point doing this, outside of appearance/cosmetics.
I have noticed cooler temps over all, but I also am not a full blown shop nor have the dedicated equipment. Just from a pure wing up vs wing down view this is wing up 100% of the time thus you will get better flow. One thing that I am doing (working on personally) is small ducts inside the decklid itself so the scoops only feed the IC ducts, But this had been a challenge as its tight in there.
The where and how much I need to wait for a later time, soon though! The wing comes with the upper and the riser arms if you choose to get those, the vendor sent me those but I had mine filled with fiberglass cause I had no intensions of running the upper wing and hated the gap it left between the decklid and rear quarter.
Originally Posted by 97supratt
That’s why I brought it up, I have a .2 GT3RS unit and it sits slightly higher where the bumper holes are. Plus the bumper holes don’t line up.
When you say slightly higher, how much higher would you say? The Decklid that I bought basically came with a replica GT crossmember. And that fit 99% like OEM. My car is a narrow body .2 so I dont know if that's the issue between our two cars or if the replica was adjusted to fit my car. I didnt feel comfortable with how much flex the unit had and I needed to modify (same for an OEM unit) the air ducting so that air got to the IC ducting on each side of the latch and thus I went Base/s/GTS OEM member. One thing I would look into though (I recall seeing this when I was playing with fitment before I took it to a shop) on your GT crossmember, check to see if the metal sleeves that all the holes (mainly the two that are used for alignment, they are like 2-3 inch studs on the car) have to be shaved or sanded down from underneath to allow for the crossmember to sit flusher. Assuming this is at most a 1/4 inch adjustment cause if its more then that OEM unit wont work for your car. Post up some pictures of it on the car if you have any so I can get an idea.
I am still wrinkling out items and worked with a vendor (basically ebay rep, unless you want to drop serious coin on the wicked one that costs $15K or OEM @ $20k+). They said they have tweaked theirs based on the info I've given them and are also open to making batches of them or doing group buy(s). However, before that I planned to put together a DIY thread to show what is all involved and how much work it will take to get something like this mounted up for those that are interested and still want to pursue it.
I would recommend a GT2RS not GT3RS as you need the scoop else its a moot point doing this, outside of appearance/cosmetics.
I have noticed cooler temps over all, but I also am not a full blown shop nor have the dedicated equipment. Just from a pure wing up vs wing down view this is wing up 100% of the time thus you will get better flow. One thing that I am doing (working on personally) is small ducts inside the decklid itself so the scoops only feed the IC ducts, But this had been a challenge as its tight in there.
The where and how much I need to wait for a later time, soon though! The wing comes with the upper and the riser arms if you choose to get those, the vendor sent me those but I had mine filled with fiberglass cause I had no intensions of running the upper wing and hated the gap it left between the decklid and rear quarter.
When you say slightly higher, how much higher would you say? The Decklid that I bought basically came with a replica GT crossmember. And that fit 99% like OEM. My car is a narrow body .2 so I dont know if that's the issue between our two cars or if the replica was adjusted to fit my car. I didnt feel comfortable with how much flex the unit had and I needed to modify (same for an OEM unit) the air ducting so that air got to the IC ducting on each side of the latch and thus I went Base/s/GTS OEM member. One thing I would look into though (I recall seeing this when I was playing with fitment before I took it to a shop) on your GT crossmember, check to see if the metal sleeves that all the holes (mainly the two that are used for alignment, they are like 2-3 inch studs on the car) have to be shaved or sanded down from underneath to allow for the crossmember to sit flusher. Assuming this is at most a 1/4 inch adjustment cause if its more then that OEM unit wont work for your car. Post up some pictures of it on the car if you have any so I can get an idea.
The base I have sits higher and on top of the bumper. The holes don’t line up. I have to drill new holes. If I replace the bumper with a GT bumper this might solve the issue. The base frame needs a slight trim at the bottom to fit.
Yeah off a .2 GT3 RS. I have a .2 rear bumper but it doesn’t line up. I can make it work though .
Yea it appears that its easy to do for your application. To me it simply didn't make sense since I would to hack up 2 3inch by 8 inches rectangular cutouts on each side of the crossmember to supply the air to the IC's. I also have a spare fiberglass crossmember that I used for testing and no longer will use if you want it. Might work for you or might not work but at least you can try it out. Just pay for shipping.
Here is a picture of the unit. You can see the difference between .2 and aftermarket. I did predrill everything so it will come with all the holes and the mounting sets for the latch.
Yea it appears that its easy to do for your application. To me it simply didn't make sense since I would to hack up 2 3inch by 8 inches rectangular cutouts on each side of the crossmember to supply the air to the IC's. I also have a spare fiberglass crossmember that I used for testing and no longer will use if you want it. Might work for you or might not work but at least you can try it out. Just pay for shipping.
Here is a picture of the unit. You can see the difference between .2 and aftermarket. I did predrill everything so it will come with all the holes and the mounting sets for the latch.
The bumper holes I just drilled guide holes but never got far enough to feeling comfortable using the unit to even mount the bumper. The good part is that its a straight edge and not indented anywhere like the OEM piece is for the mounting location so if it doesnt line up you drill and slide the threaded metal tabs.
The bumper holes I just drilled guide holes but never got far enough to feeling comfortable using the unit to even mount the bumper. The good part is that its a straight edge and not indented anywhere like the OEM piece is for the mounting location so if it doesnt line up you drill and slide the threaded metal tabs.
I m not trying to create a gt2 rs replica, so I’d love a ducktail option.
Thats why I went with the decklid from a GT2RS. The issue with the one you posted is that you now will have cooling issues as that wing doesnt have vents and youll have to code out the active wing part of it.
11-03-2020, 10:36 AM
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