991.1s Oil Temp on Track
#1
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I went for a couple of short track outings and on the 80 degreee day saw 267-271F oil temps a couple times.
What do you guys typically see?
Looks like a 3rd radiator will drop ~30 off the temp, can anyone confirm that?
Not my track car but I can see using it sporadically when I want to drive further to a track in comfort
kinda like the ac seats when on track too, starting to sound soft mmmust stop.
What do you guys typically see?
Looks like a 3rd radiator will drop ~30 off the temp, can anyone confirm that?
Not my track car but I can see using it sporadically when I want to drive further to a track in comfort
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#2
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That's too hot. You are doing a short DE on an 80 degree day. That's nothing severe to cause your elevated oil temps. Something is not right with your car. 250s would be a more normal range. 275 range will destroy your oil.
What makes you think a 3rd radiator will drop oil temps by 30 degrees? I have a 3rd radiator (PowerKit option) on my 2014 and my oil temps are no different than 991.1s without it.
Is it possible you are confusing your oil temp gauge with your coolant gauge?
What makes you think a 3rd radiator will drop oil temps by 30 degrees? I have a 3rd radiator (PowerKit option) on my 2014 and my oil temps are no different than 991.1s without it.
Is it possible you are confusing your oil temp gauge with your coolant gauge?
#3
Burning Brakes
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I have a .2 and noticed my oil temps peaked at 272 at track both weekends at track in June. Outside temp was low 90s. I am curious what that 3rd radiator might bring it down to as well.
#4
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That's too hot. You are doing a short DE on an 80 degree day. That's nothing severe to cause your elevated oil temps. Something is not right with your car. 250s would be a more normal range. 275 range will destroy your oil.
What makes you think a 3rd radiator will drop oil temps by 30 degrees? I have a 3rd radiator (PowerKit option) on my 2014 and my oil temps are no different than 991.1s without it.
Is it possible you are confusing your oil temp gauge with your coolant gauge?
What makes you think a 3rd radiator will drop oil temps by 30 degrees? I have a 3rd radiator (PowerKit option) on my 2014 and my oil temps are no different than 991.1s without it.
Is it possible you are confusing your oil temp gauge with your coolant gauge?
I read a RL thread I thought said 30 degreee oil temp drop.
No chance I'm confusing gauges water temp is pretty stuck on 194 and the oil is M1 5/50 that had a previous track day (3x 20min & 2x 30min) on it a week earlier.
Will be changing oil again before any hard driving or track with it and probably need to do pads again since I wasn't planning to track it more than once and just put on some OE/Textars, they toast quick.
Bremebo HTC 64t on the other hand is great and I've run it all season in my track car with no loss of pedal/feel.
#5
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How old is your oil?
when you drive too long and hard, the oil could start to foam. With ambient above 85, I normally stop atop after 6-7 laps or 18 minutes.
1. Make sure you have fresh oil and run Liqui Moly 5W40 or similar, not mobile 1 0W40
2. If you see temp go up, stop, Tires are gone after 18 minutes so no more lap record lap time or slow and short shift and work on improving some corners instead.
when you drive too long and hard, the oil could start to foam. With ambient above 85, I normally stop atop after 6-7 laps or 18 minutes.
1. Make sure you have fresh oil and run Liqui Moly 5W40 or similar, not mobile 1 0W40
2. If you see temp go up, stop, Tires are gone after 18 minutes so no more lap record lap time or slow and short shift and work on improving some corners instead.
#6
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How old is your oil?
when you drive too long and hard, the oil could start to foam. With ambient above 85, I normally stop atop after 6-7 laps or 18 minutes.
1. Make sure you have fresh oil and run Liqui Moly 5W40 or similar, not mobile 1 0W40
2. If you see temp go up, stop, Tires are gone after 18 minutes so no more lap record lap time or slow and short shift and work on improving some corners instead.
when you drive too long and hard, the oil could start to foam. With ambient above 85, I normally stop atop after 6-7 laps or 18 minutes.
1. Make sure you have fresh oil and run Liqui Moly 5W40 or similar, not mobile 1 0W40
2. If you see temp go up, stop, Tires are gone after 18 minutes so no more lap record lap time or slow and short shift and work on improving some corners instead.
I was running Michelin PSS which go off after more than 4-5 hard laps and typically run into some traffic that will cool tires and oil.
My gauges are set up with just tire pressure, temps and G-force to toggle between so it's easy to watch temp.
I short shift regularly in Sport+ as there's often no benefit to the last 1000 rpm as torque drops off drastically.
#7
Burning Brakes
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I have Cup 2s but... Starting at 26lb in front and 28 rear cold will keep my tires to where they are good for a full 30 min session 4/5 times. The outlier being that 1st session cause tires are dead cold and can build too much pressure even from those low settings after 20 min or so..) I had a tire temp/pressure analysis done which lead me to those numbers which really helped a lot. Tires are way more consistent in a session and not slippery toward the end. You will need to be a little gentle for a couple laps til pressure gets up to about 30 when tires are totally cold. I recommend having someone do a pyrometer/pressure reading in pitts for you if you have to come in after 18 minutes due to tires. This way you can get a scientific analysis of your tire/camber setup and get the most out of your tires and your day. It was $130 for a Corsa Crew to do mine last month and well worth the data I gained.
I dont know about the Liqui Molly and how that compares to Mobile 1 as far as heat goes, it very well could make a difference. I might give it a try or try to find data on it before I swap it.
Like the OP, It would be really nice to know if that third radiator makes any difference. If it knocked down oil temps by 10 degrees I would get it before next summer personally if I knew that.
I dont know about the Liqui Molly and how that compares to Mobile 1 as far as heat goes, it very well could make a difference. I might give it a try or try to find data on it before I swap it.
Like the OP, It would be really nice to know if that third radiator makes any difference. If it knocked down oil temps by 10 degrees I would get it before next summer personally if I knew that.
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#9
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Check out this thread for more info:
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...e-track-2.html
Note replies #11(ok to be that high) and #28 (you should get a PDK cooler), but there's lots of back-and-forth over the 63 posts in that thread. Get readin'!
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...e-track-2.html
Note replies #11(ok to be that high) and #28 (you should get a PDK cooler), but there's lots of back-and-forth over the 63 posts in that thread. Get readin'!
#10
RL Community Team
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Mobil 1 5W50 was one week old with 400 miles on it including one prior track day.
I was running Michelin PSS which go off after more than 4-5 hard laps and typically run into some traffic that will cool tires and oil.
My gauges are set up with just tire pressure, temps and G-force to toggle between so it's easy to watch temp.
I short shift regularly in Sport+ as there's often no benefit to the last 1000 rpm as torque drops off drastically.
I was running Michelin PSS which go off after more than 4-5 hard laps and typically run into some traffic that will cool tires and oil.
My gauges are set up with just tire pressure, temps and G-force to toggle between so it's easy to watch temp.
I short shift regularly in Sport+ as there's often no benefit to the last 1000 rpm as torque drops off drastically.
Having tracked a 991.1 C4S, with no center radiator, I've seen temps consistently between 250 to 260.
Try Motul or Liqui Moly.
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knb1 (01-22-2021)
#11
Former Vendor
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Sorry if this seems way too obvious, but make sure you have 'Sport' mode on. Oil temps run in a higher more fuel efficient range when not in sport mode.
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BOPE (06-28-2020)
#12
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Mobil 5w50 is great but my C4s ran hotter oil temps. Switched back to 0w40 and the oil temp problem was fixed. Use 0w40 just change the oil more often.
#13
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I have Cup 2s but... Starting at 26lb in front and 28 rear cold will keep my tires to where they are good for a full 30 min session 4/5 times. The outlier being that 1st session cause tires are dead cold and can build too much pressure even from those low settings after 20 min or so..) I had a tire temp/pressure analysis done which lead me to those numbers which really helped a lot. Tires are way more consistent in a session and not slippery toward the end. You will need to be a little gentle for a couple laps til pressure gets up to about 30 when tires are totally cold. I recommend having someone do a pyrometer/pressure reading in pitts for you if you have to come in after 18 minutes due to tires. This way you can get a scientific analysis of your tire/camber setup and get the most out of your tires and your day. It was $130 for a Corsa Crew to do mine last month and well worth the data I gained.
I dont know about the Liqui Molly and how that compares to Mobile 1 as far as heat goes, it very well could make a difference. I might give it a try or try to find data on it before I swap it.
Like the OP, It would be really nice to know if that third radiator makes any difference. If it knocked down oil temps by 10 degrees I would get it before next summer personally if I knew that.
I dont know about the Liqui Molly and how that compares to Mobile 1 as far as heat goes, it very well could make a difference. I might give it a try or try to find data on it before I swap it.
Like the OP, It would be really nice to know if that third radiator makes any difference. If it knocked down oil temps by 10 degrees I would get it before next summer personally if I knew that.
Thanks for the reminder on the basics!
Check out this thread for more info:
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...e-track-2.html
Note replies #11(ok to be that high) and #28 (you should get a PDK cooler), but there's lots of back-and-forth over the 63 posts in that thread. Get readin'!
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...e-track-2.html
Note replies #11(ok to be that high) and #28 (you should get a PDK cooler), but there's lots of back-and-forth over the 63 posts in that thread. Get readin'!
I know their 0/50 Race oil is close and the suggestion to run 0/40 by another seems contradictory to what you'd want at higher temp as shear resistance is better with 5W/50.
Yep S or S+ always.
#14
RL Community Team
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Not ready to ditch M1 yet, I've had good luch with it on my 6t too and analysis after looks good. Certainly open to new stuff thought, what would you run instead?
I know their 0/50 Race oil is close and the suggestion to run 0/40 by another seems contradictory to what you'd want at higher temp as shear resistance is better with 5W/50.
I know their 0/50 Race oil is close and the suggestion to run 0/40 by another seems contradictory to what you'd want at higher temp as shear resistance is better with 5W/50.
You can decide on the weight and viscosity based on your driving conditions. I use 5w40
And, yes, Motul 300v is currently not Porsche approved A40 oil, but this is why.
#15
Former Vendor
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Correct, Motul 300V doesn't have any approvals as it is formulated specifically for racing but it handles heat very well. We've seen temps well above 300F in cases of cooling issues without engine damage.
Our partners at Pfaff Motorsports run Motul 300V 0W40 and you can see a UOA after 24 Hours of use at Daytona from the race this January here:
https://rennlist.com/articles/pfaff-...24-at-daytona/
There may be additional issues at play, but a good ester-based oil like 300V at a lower viscosity will improve oil flow and reduce friction/heat by almost 10F.
Our partners at Pfaff Motorsports run Motul 300V 0W40 and you can see a UOA after 24 Hours of use at Daytona from the race this January here:
https://rennlist.com/articles/pfaff-...24-at-daytona/
There may be additional issues at play, but a good ester-based oil like 300V at a lower viscosity will improve oil flow and reduce friction/heat by almost 10F.