dsddcd

I have been considering a LIPO (Lithium Iron Phosphate) Battery for my 991.2. I am guessing that the car needs 350+ CCA and 20+AHr at minimum but I do not know that to be true. I do like the AntiGravity Batteries, primarily for the restart function, but and trying to figure out if the H6 Group is really needed over a Series 30 would be enough?

Antigravity YTX30 w/ Restart
Hyper Sport - 30L - 625 CCA / 30AH

For reference I ran an AGM in my last race car for years and never had trouble baring I kept it on the tender while in storage.
YTX30 - AGM Battery 385 CCA 30AHr



Also what are the requirements to charge the batteries? Does everyone use a charger that does not have a desulfate/condition cycle or something bespoke to LI-Ion batteries?

polobai

I use the Antigravity group 48 direct replacement in 40 amp hours. Works great (Even with auto stop/start) and no regrets-it’s considerably more expensive though.

Need4S

I run an H6 40Ah Antigravity and with shelter-in-place, a CTEK Li Ion tender. Until the pandemic, the car was daily driven so I didn't want to go super low Ah/weight. I use a dedicated Li Ion tender because I don't want to worry about the wrong charger causing a fire.

ericmeds

Curious how the tender works since lithium batteries will significantly degrade when charged or stored at 4.2 per cell/100%?

_RS_

I've had an Antigravity H7 40Ah for a short while. I use a CTEK charger for maintenance but a regular 14.4V charger is ok if it doesn't have that de-sulphuring blasting thing which can go above 15V.
Great customer service for all your (and my) queries. Cranking amps are crazy! Pretty spendy but I like to experiment and I convinced myself the original battery wasn't aging well.

Antigravity

Hey DSDD,

For a 991 I wouldn't recommend it to be blunt.... go with the ATX30HD IF anything but you lose the RE-START feature.

No, this isn't intended as an up-sell attempt, its just the realities. The fact is an ATX 30 is OK in some applications but it does NOT have really the Amp Hour Capacity that we would like to see in a modern automobile that is street driven, and YES we know many do it perfectly successfully with the ATX30, but they are monitoring the battery and keeping it on a charger more often and understand its Limitation at a much lower Amp Hour rating compared to our dedicated Automobile Batteries. We always tell them to make sure they have it more often on a charger than the other actual Automotive sytle battery we make.

For example and ATX30 is 18Ah... it also has a BMS that is good but not as good as the real Automotive specific batteries we offer like the H6 which is 24, 30 and 40Ah. . So being the ATX30 is a lower Amp hour capacity, the RE-START feature will never be as strong as our 30Ah or 40Ah Batteries that we recommend normally for Autos. This is because it is literally half the Amp Hour Capacity of the others. The ATX30 is designed as a Powersports Battery... and it works FINE in many Car applications, but you have a 991 I assume, and that is a Modern Car with all the modern electronics...it is also a Car that is dependant on solid voltages... and when you have only 18Ah as a battery, it required monitoring more often. Where as a 30Ah and 40Ah battery can sit almost two months in your car without a charger on it. Also if the ATX3o does discharge down to the level the puts in into its SLEEP MODE and you have to use the RE-START feature.... then please note you are using the RE-START feature with MUCH less Power than intended since the 18Ah battery is WAY smaller than the 30Ah and 40Ah we recommend. So the worst case scenario you might not get a good RE-START and then be pissed at the Battery for leaving you stranded when we promise it won't. So that is why we say go with the REAL Battery with plenty of OVER-HEAD power and intended for typical street Car applications with the Capacity and Power to that can always do what we promise..

But if you are SUPER performance oriented and understand those limitations, and are willing to put the battery on a charger more often then yes the ATX30 can work fine. But as a business, we want SLAM DUNKS , HAPPY CUSTOMERS, and NO PROBLEMS, so we want to see the correct product used for the correct application. If you had a Cup Car I would say sure the ATX 30 is a fine option. In a road going Car, we don't want any question or limitations on the battery. We understand they are an expensive products... but you get something that is actually designed to just work great in your vehicle.in most every respect and seriously outperform your existing lead/acid stock battery and last twice as long. . . so its a front loaded cost but costs less in the long run.

By the way we have just started making videos on our products, and below is our first one on Motorcycle/Powersports Batteries. I shoot the Car Battery one this weekend, and should have it up next week. Then I'll be doing another video on selecting the best battery for your Cars and bringing up using Smaller Batteries like the ATX30 in Cars too. Our objective is to start putting out many highly informative videos... not just short sales pitches... so the video might be a little long for some, but we don't mind because our objective is to educate people not only about the product, but also about Lithium and pros and cons and go into charging and stuff so people watching will really get the low-down.

Antigravity

YOu would want to go with Lithium specific Battery Charger designed for Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries.... meaning a Lithium Version of the top charger manufacturers . For example CTEK makes one, Optimate makes a few. There are others out there also, but these are two companies we trust and know put alot of time into good charge profiles, and use quality components...

Keep in mind it is fine to use a lower Amp version of a lithium charger... like th .8amp Chargers that are pretty inexpensive, but its always best if you get a real Charger/Maintainer for any battery... and by real charger I mean something with a minimum of about 4 Amps charging rate. This way it can charge your battery in a timely manner if you did over-discharge it. Now keep in mind if you over-discharge a RE-START battery then you can still Jump start your car and drive away which recharges the battery fine... but say you don't want to drive for 40 minutes to recharge the RE-START battery you can just put it on a Charger again.... so if you use a .8amp charger... then you talking a very slow charge rate, where as a 4 amp charge rate is much better to charge a battery faster. And I'm saying that whether you have a Lead or Lithium Charger. the Maintainer low amps one are really not worth it overall and are so slow to charge if you need to actually charge your battery.

Last keep in mind your Porsches come with a CTEK charger branded as a Porsche Charger... and they are fine for you Lead Acid Battery and maintaining your Car... but if you do go with lithium get a Lithium Charger... because a Lead Charger has a De-Sulfate Mode which spikes voltage to a lead/acid battery to remove sulphate from a a lead/acid battery plates inside the battery.. but this spiking voltage overheats and causes over-voltage to a Lithium Battery. So best to use the correct charger for you battery chemistry.

mdkrp

Thanks for the info; looking forward to the videos.

Need4S

Good question and I'm not sure Scott quite answered it even though he quoted you. I would guess that a dedicated Li Ion charger would float at just below 100% for the reason you state, but don't know. CTEK claims use will extend not decrease battery life. https://smartercharger.com/collectio...tek-lithium-us

Manufacturer's claims:

Antigravity

I think he may have accidentally missed directly answering as well, sorry for that...but I think it's covered pretty well in the info from CTEK...not sure where the 4.2v from the earlier inquiry would come from though as that is usually in the realm of lithium polymers such as lithium cobalt..etc..so I don't think the CTEK would be putting that voltage through and it should correlate with Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4) which generally has a cell operating range from about 2.5-3.65v and likely not going to maintain at max but closer to the batteries resting voltage at 13.2v if I were to guess how the algorithm is set up.

Regardless, our main goal is to provide a battery option that doesn't have to rely on charging and constantly maintaining...between selecting the right capacity amount, Lithium's characteristic of a much slower discharge rate, and also having the BMS and Restart feature we want to provide a battery that alleviates the hassles, problems, and worries people would experience when using lead/acid options and not have to rely on charging and maintaining the batteries all of the time.
-Chad
chad@antigravitybatteries.com

dsddcd

Thank you for the information, so much to learn here as I am completely uneducated about batteries. The car does have all the bells and whistles but is primarily used for cross country road trips, car group events and the occasional track day. I pull it into the shop and hook it up to the tender in between these events. Even if I did lose power and settings it would not bother me as I don't listen to the radio much, don't have memory seats..... I do want it right and hassle free though as the car will be used on many 5,000 mile or greater road trips. I would be more inclined to purchase a mini jump pack than take the option for the auto restart, but I think that is VERY clever and why I selected Antigravity over some of the others.

I guess the only thing I am stuck on is the is the difference in all the AH ratings I am seeing? Based on traditional ratings I could get away with roughly a 25AH but the Antigravity are rated using PbEq, or lead equivalent, then roughly half of that rating is stated as "Actual". What exactly is the difference here?

koven

been using the anti gravity H7 w/ ctek 56-926 for nearly a year now.. no complaints!

polobai

It may just be me but I love my Antigravity battery but do not care for the optimate lithium charger...thing is like Greek to use and the lights mean squat-I can’t tell when it’s charging or not. I would personally recommend another lithium charger/maintainer.

911mhawk

I've run the ATX-30 in my track car for almost 2 years no problems even having let it run dead a couple times after sitting for a couple months.
Jump start it, drive it around and all fine for regular use again.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...0-battery.html

Oh yea, and I've used this charger no problemo too:

fsmich

I had one of the original ATX-30's in my 991.2, and had some electrical gremlins like dashboard warning lights and the forward fans coming on at will. Scott allowed me to exchange it for the H6 40Ah when it came out. The 40Ah rip starts the engine, and I never charge it. The longest I've let it sit is 2 weeks, but even then it still shows 13.0v on the dashboard. I would not get a smaller battery unless it was a dedicated track car.