Bud Taylor

I prefer this one and it works great cut up a cheap backpack to hold it while I work. Rubberized tip keeps paint safe and plenty of umph. Mckees 37.

BlueShell

Here's my process with 3 optional steps depending on how dirty the car is. If I don't do those 3 optional steps, the car wash takes me all of 20 minutes. With the extra steps, it takes me another 10 minutes longer. Disclaimer: I'm not a vendor or paid to use any of the products I mention.

Body wash (20 to 30 minutes)

1. Optional: Spray down water to remove grime if the car is extra dirty.

2. Mix 1oz of Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash to 3 gallons of water.

3. Optional: Add 2 squeezes of AMMO Boost to the solution if there is a lot of extra grime/dirt on the car (this also helps cut down on water spotting if your water is pretty hard).

4. Soak 4 to 5 microfiber towels in the rinseless wash solution.

5. Optional: Pre-treat each panel with Ammo Frothe Dry Foam for additional lubricity if the car is extra dirty.

6. Clean each panel with towel soaked in solution from top to bottom (fold towel to fourths and roll as you wipe) - discard towels once all sides are used.

7. Dry panel immediately with clean damp microfiber towel with AMMO Hydrate. (Alternatively: Use AMMO Reboot instead of Hydrate if you need to "renew" your sealant coating)

8. Optional: Wipe the car down with some AMMO Spit for some extra wax and shine.


Wheels wash (8 to 10 minutes)

Wheel Wash:

1. Optional: Spray wheels with Adam’s wheel cleaner if there is extra brake dust build-up.

2.. Mix in 2 squeezes of Ammo Brute Wheel soap with a bucket of water.

3. Clean wheels and tires w/ Ammo Brute solution w/ wheel brush and rinse.

4. Apply AMMO mud to tires.

For what it's worth, this is a process I've honed and experimented from reading detailing forums, the /r/autodetailing subreddit and trying different products / processes.

I have a pressure washer, an EGO leaf blower, foam cannon and all the other car washing toys. Ultimately I found this to be the best effort to results ratio for me. I've also tried ONR before but like Wolfgang because they have a bit more lubricity in their product which may aid in preventing scratches.

I've been doing this wash method for both of my cars for the last year (added AMMO Frothe to the regime recently for even more lubricity) and haven't had any issues with scratches or swirls. The key is to use a lot of microfiber towels and keep swapping them out to not cross contaminate.

I don’t miss hauling out my foam cannon / pressure washer, hooking it up and then dismantling it all after the wash.

The Boz Abides

A greener solution would be to wash them afterwards using something like this: Griot's Microfiber cleaner

I toss all of my microfibers into a pile and then the pile gets a separate machine washing using the Griots. The only microfibers I toss are the ones that may accidentally get dropped on the ground. I can tell you this product works wonders.

Hurricane

Are any foam car wash brands to be avoided for centerlock wheels? I have read on other posts that some seem to discolor the centerlocks. TIA.

Jack F

Your are asking specifically about the splined centerlock nut?

Hurricane

Yes.

Jack F

I have seen photos of those that look horrible. Are they anodized aluminum? A wheel cleaner like Meguiars acid cleaner could harm them. There are many wheel cleaners out there that are gentle and have a neutral ish ph. You can get an MSDS for any product and check the ph for yourself.

koven

thanks! appreciate the detailed breakdown, i ordered some off amazon will give it a go

garfunkle

Yes - I have a Ryobi that's awesome and I use it for the driveway too.

Also - Careful with the combustion pressure washers... You want flow and not pressure for washing. High end electric pressure washers max out at 900-1100 PSI. Anything under $300 isn't making anywhere near that pressure even if it has a sticker that says otherwise.