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Regardless, we changed some setting in the BMS and think we have it licked... and since it was rare we are not too concerned but didn't want it to even come up again so we are trying some stuff so it can't occur even if the voltage goes high in a Car.
I received my replacement battery today and installed it right away. I went out for an hour of great driving this afternoon. Battery voltage showed 14.6V while driving (on the car display) and was pretty much pegged there for the entire drive. The Battery Tracker showed 14.56V) Went through the DQ drive-through and voltage dropped to 13.8V and it stayed there while idling. Once driving, it went back to 14.6V. No warning lights triggered over the span of an hour and about 20 miles of driving. It was a nice day out, temperature was 16C, 60F. Not sure if those are the voltage numbers you expect, but everything seemed to run great!
I received my replacement battery today and installed it right away. I went out for an hour of great driving this afternoon. Battery voltage showed 14.6V while driving (on the car display) and was pretty much pegged there for the entire drive. The Battery Tracker showed 14.56V) Went through the DQ drive-through and voltage dropped to 13.8V and it stayed there while idling. Once driving, it went back to 14.6V. No warning lights triggered over the span of an hour and about 20 miles of driving. It was a nice day out, temperature was 16C, 60F. Not sure if those are the voltage numbers you expect, but everything seemed to run great!
As long as no flags you are golden. Those voltage are all completely normal and your cars voltages during driving will vary depending on several factors during any drive.... Things like what loads (accessories ike A/C, radio, PDK and so on) are "ON" , engine RPM, the detected state of charge of the battery and even the temperature outside... colder temps will raise the voltage. So you are good.
Thought I'd add to this thread as another data point. I have a 2018 Carrera T and just installed my new battery. I debated about having a shop recode the battery information, but couldn't get over paying close to $200 for a private shop to do it and over $300 for the dealer to do it. Given it has been stated it is not really necessary, I went ahead and just installed it myself. Took me 20 minutes, started right up, no codes. Even the memory on everything appeared to be preserved. The only thing I lost was the auto open and close function on the windows. However, I did the reset process that took me a few seconds and that was fine as well after the reset.
Overall, a great product, perfect fit, and the guys at AntiGravity were very accommodating (i.e. great service). I asked them to hold it at their warehouse given they are local to me and I picked it up in person and saved a few more bucks on shipping. If anyone is on the fence on getting one of these, I say just do it. And yes, the car felt faster with less weight (about 40 lbs. lost)...
Seeing as I started this thread with some issues, it's probably a good time to give an update. Since Antigravity sent me an updated battery, I haven't had any codes or issues at all. It's been perfect!
Seeing as I started this thread with some issues, it's probably a good time to give an update. Since Antigravity sent me an updated battery, I haven't had any codes or issues at all. It's been perfect!
it’s summer. As I recall your issues were cold temp related. Please report back during the winter.
@Wolpertinger Did you have the battery details recoded? I went ahead and just installed it without the recode.
Thanks for posting F1, and also Wolpertinger for the follow up.
I wanted to express that we suggest nobody does any recoding or anything... just put it in and go.... and here are the reasons.
Unfortunately, if you go to a Porsche Dealer, about 90% of the time they will tell a Customer that only Porsche Lithium Batteries will work in any Porsche or that a Lithium Battery in general will not work in the Car, or has to be reprogrammed at some expense. I know this well because we have have sold a lot of these batteries and several times we have a Customer that has taken it to a Porsche Dealer, been told either it won't work in the Car, or that the Car has to be Programmed or Coded and they call us freaked out because the Porsche Dealer has gloom and doomed them falsely. The problem is they are not well enough versed on Lithium batteries, So they will poo-poo it in most cases though some are fine dealerships and know this type of product.
The facts are our Lithium battery absolutely does not have to be re-coded or registered, and we recommend not to do this because it is NOT needed. The Antigravity RE-START Battery can handle any charging profile for any battery type with no ill effects... Meaning if its a typical Flooded Lead/Acid battery setting in PIWIS that is perfectly OK, if it is a AGM setting that is fine as well. These setting only vary mildly and would not effect our battery at all. If its a Lithium setting its fine too... but the fact is when they try to set it to the "lithium setting" it just creates and extra cost for the owner when it is not needed, and being blunt these Porsche Mechanics are not really "informed" on Lithium, they don't know much about it. In fact most of them have rarely dealt with a Lithium battery, so they start talking without really knowing the facts. I say that knowing that some dealers have actually been cool and did it correctly also but its rare.
To give you some insight on the Lithium setting in PIWIS. This setting limits the charging rate to 13.7v, and also is good if you track or race only because you are are sustained very high RPMs much of the time, so the lower voltage setting on the alternator could in fact create less drag on the Motor which would allow for the best performance in a Race condition. But unless you are tracking about 70% of the time it's not beneficial and just adds something that is not necessary or hindering our battery in the first place. So we try to tell anybody who calls us.... if you can, just swap it out yourself, its really easy and about 25 mins for a first timer... don't code don't try to do anything... simply put it in and drive it a little then all should be good.
By the way I made a new video on the product... its a bit long but goes into detail.
@Antigravity Thanks for the clarification. It's what I had read before and why I just installed it myself (very easy and did in fact take me about 20 to 25 mins.). Also, as a barometer for others, my dealer wanted $321 to install and re-code and they said they had definitely done a few and were cool with doing it. I just wasn't cool with the install & recode price! They also added that if I installed it and brought it to them for recoding, they would do the recode only, but for $200. Again, no thanks. Lastly, I then checked with a very reputable local independent shop that has the Porsche Tool to recode and they would do install and recode for $185. Although more palatable, it just seemed silly to me for something I could do at home in less than half an hour.
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To give you some insight on the Lithium setting in PIWIS. This setting limits the charging rate to 13.7v, and also is good if you track or race only because you are are sustained very high RPMs much of the time, so the lower voltage setting on the alternator could in fact create less drag on the Motor which would allow for the best performance in a Race condition. But unless you are tracking about 70% of the time it's not beneficial and just adds something that is not necessary or hindering our battery in the first place. So we try to tell anybody who calls us.... if you can, just swap it out yourself, its really easy and about 25 mins for a first timer... don't code don't try to do anything... simply put it in and drive it a little then all should be good.
Since the issue was a high voltage charge from an alternator during cold weather, why not just go Lithium settings in PIWIS? Should've helped. Is 13.7v not enough for Antigravity battery charging?
So just to clarify, this is not recommended for regions that see zero F temps during the winter? Car would be driven to work and could sit is underground no heated garage that is basically ambient air temps, maybe worse cause no sun gets under the top level. Thanks
Since the issue was a high voltage charge from an alternator during cold weather, why not just go Lithium settings in PIWIS? Should've helped. Is 13.7v not enough for Antigravity battery charging?
Good question.....
13.7v would be fine... and all would work as normal, but the reality is we would actually prefer to see 14.4v minimum to the battery since this 13.7v maximum output in the "Lithium Setting" in PIWIS is designed for Tracking/Race uses, and does not consider the User is not tracking/racing. They are not considering that setting for regular Street Duty. So in those circumstances of potentially having extra accessories going, such as lighting and AC, radio all being used, then you are NOT getting the full output that Alternator offers to power those accessories.... so in fact it might leave the battery in a lower than optimal state of charge if all the accessories are running. So with the lower output of the Lithium Setting , and having extra accessories going then maybe the Car will go into a lower voltage state and flags might appear since you are not allowing the alternator to really power those accessories and lighting with as much energy going to them as a regular 14.8v output setting from the alternator would allow.
Also secondarily, we don't like people hassling with a thing like changing settings, when we know it works perfectly fine just dropping it in the Car as it sits. We intend this product to be a plug and play type product, and it really is. We want the experience to be ultra simple and easy. So having people think they have to get re-coding and other stuff done removes that simplicity. And the benefit of a lithium setting is really only for sustained high rpm uses of being on a track going full out... so it not really worth it in most circumstance unless you are seriously tracking or racing.... and in those cases guys can opt to the change then. Keep in mind also that Porsche intended this setting for THEIR Lithium Battery, and ONLY for Track use. They sold their Lithium Battery for Track use and said not to use it as a regular battery.... the AG battery works for either.
So just to clarify, this is not recommended for regions that see zero F temps during the winter? Car would be driven to work and could sit is underground no heated garage that is basically ambient air temps, maybe worse cause no sun gets under the top level. Thanks
They actually can be used fine in an area that see zero, for shorter periods, but if it is a long term zero, then yes that would not be the best application. It is not about just seeing zero degrees, that is not an issue at all if you are driving in that...or storing for shorter periods in that. Its about not wanting the battery to become completely frozen.. but that would take a little bit sitting in Zero degrees anyway since the battery is a block of cells and has insulation around it. It more about longer term exposure and not being driven... like when it just sitting at zero and not being operated. We go up snowboarding for a week usually in my older Toyota Tacoma and no problems... but we are usually driving it daily, it not just sitting with no exposure to current movement which can keep it from freezing also.
Also you want to go with a bigger version of he battery in colder weather... like the 60Ah because it has plenty of overhead in power and more of a larger capacity. I go over it in the video, if you watched it but might not have answered the question well enough.
13.7v would be fine... and all would work as normal, but the reality is we would actually prefer to see 14.4v minimum to the battery since this 13.7v maximum output in the "Lithium Setting" in PIWIS is designed for Tracking/Race uses, and does not consider the User is not tracking/racing. They are not considering that setting for regular Street Duty. So in those circumstances of potentially having extra accessories going, such as lighting and AC, radio all being used, then you are NOT getting the full output that Alternator offers to power those accessories.... so in fact it might leave the battery in a lower than optimal state of charge if all the accessories are running. So with the lower output of the Lithium Setting , and having extra accessories going then maybe the Car will go into a lower voltage state and flags might appear since you are not allowing the alternator to really power those accessories and lighting with as much energy going to them as a regular 14.8v output setting from the alternator would allow.
Also secondarily, we don't like people hassling with a thing like changing settings, when we know it works perfectly fine just dropping it in the Car as it sits. We intend this product to be a plug and play type product, and it really is. We want the experience to be ultra simple and easy. So having people think they have to get re-coding and other stuff done removes that simplicity. And the benefit of a lithium setting is really only for sustained high rpm uses of being on a track going full out... so it not really worth it in most circumstance unless you are seriously tracking or racing.... and in those cases guys can opt to the change then. Keep in mind also that Porsche intended this setting for THEIR Lithium Battery, and ONLY for Track use. They sold their Lithium Battery for Track use and said not to use it as a regular battery.... the AG battery works for either.
Thank you for the response. So my take aways are:
1. 13.7v is fine, but not optimal, as 14.4v+ is what you like. If the car is not on a track or is on a track is irrelevant. The limit of the charge to 13.7v is a concern with additional consumption load. So what is the minimal voltage an alternator has to produce to successfully charge your battery? Anything above 13v should do, isn't it?
2. Porsche does not recommend to use their lithium battery beyond track use. However you are saying the AG battery is fine. Any idea why they would not?
3. I appreciate your thinking of making your battery to be plug-n-play with no need to change any settings. However, in some (small) number of cases the AG battery is causing system malfunction throwing codes. It is annoying to say the least and somewhat worrisome. I am driving 991.1 TTS and will need a new battery soon. How do I know that the AG battery will not cause the type of issues the OP experienced. I admit I do not have his qualities required to live on with this type of issues. Any suggestions on how do ppl like me proceed with AG batteries in 991.1 cars?
. Any suggestions on how do ppl like me proceed with AG batteries in 991.1 cars?
OP here. When Antigravity heard about my issues, they sent me a new battery that they made some changes to. From what I can tell, they've nailed it. Granted it's not winter anymore, but I had issues even on warm winter days (60 degrees F). I have had no issues with the replacement battery. These guys stand behind their product.
05-05-2020, 08:36 PM
