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I'm with 4 Point 0. I started tracking around 20 years ago (damn, getting old), and I had my brakes completely fade on me once and about crapped myself. Ever since that point in time, brakes have been a first mod. If you track a lot, go straight to the big brake kit. Aside from performance benefits, they are safer and they will save you money in the long run due to greatly reduced brake pad and rotor wear. I'd also avoid cross drilled as they are pretty much just for looks these days. Go slotted as they are significantly more durable. Cross drilled are very crack prone in track use.
. I'd also avoid cross drilled as they are pretty much just for looks these days. Go slotted as they are significantly more durable. Cross drilled are very crack prone in track use.
Totally agree. Drilled blow on the track. They clog up and they crack. I’m running brembo type 3 at present. I love them, but want to try type 5. They may not wear pads as much as type 3. Feel is excellent with 3 though.
Toyo R888R
Thought i would try these. 255/35/20 and 325/30/20 Toyo R888R. Time Attack Sprints tomorrow.
I thought I'd post this here, since I have a T... And I just came back from the track with (I think) an issue with my stock brakes. (2018 Carrera T with 6,600 miles, no RAS, standard steel 330mm brakes). We knew the brakes would be the Achilles heel of this car, but...
I am getting a shudder now under most braking; and I'm wondering if it is warped rotors.
- Did my third track ever day two weeks ago. 6 sessions of 15-20 mins, with the last session more like 30 mins.
- I've learned a lot, like a warm up lap, and not to apply parking brake when back in the pits. I am not setting any lap records. But I was going deeper into the turns as the day went on. I didn't know about the cool down lap.
- I had a 80 min cool down ride home, put the car away
- took the car out two days later to wash track rubber and dusty wheels...
- Now I have a brake shudder.
In case it was rust or some residue... I went for a semi-spirited drive last night. Once warmed up, I did several 60-5mph heavy braking. The car brakes in a straight line... but definitely not smooth. I can feel it through the steering. Visual inspection looks nominal. It should be noted that the P-zero tires are still quite rough from track day.
I wonder whether to take this to the track again (not until early July), or try something in the meantime. This is my game plan.
1. get it on a lift, check for grabbing
2. check / replace pads, re-bed the new pads
3. refinish rotors
4. replace rotors - upgrade to 350mm (since it is wet up here, I'd rather keep with cross-drilled), upgrade pads...
This is a familiar story. I've been tracking for nearly a decade with mid-engine Porsches. I took my 911 T to the track for the first time last year with about 3K miles on it. I was hoping the T would be okay with the OEM pads. At the worst, I thought I would just burn through them quickly. After several 30 minute sessions, I had the exact same shudder symptoms as you the following day.
I replaced the rotors, added Pagid brake pads (which I have previously used), and it's been fine since. It's worth noting that I've gone through OEM pads quickly on the track before, but it's never ruined my rotors. Also, during this process I added caliper studs, which has made changing the brake pads a lot easier. Good luck!
Totally agree. Drilled blow on the track. They clog up and they crack. I’m running brembo type 3 at present. I love them, but want to try type 5. They may not wear pads as much as type 3. Feel is excellent with 3 though.
Toyo R888R
Thought i would try these. 255/35/20 and 325/30/20 Toyo R888R. Time Attack Sprints tomorrow.
Please post your thoughts of the Toyo's vs the AR1's
I understand going the aftermarket big brake kit (BBK) will require me to decommission the brake sensor kit (brake wear sensor) by tying (splicing together) the wiring harness.
I understand going the aftermarket big brake kit (BBK) will require me to decommission the brake sensor kit (brake wear sensor) by tying (splicing together) the wiring harness.
Per this video (at 16m 53s)
In the past I have just zip tied the sensors up on the control arm or something out of the way. That way you dont get the brake warning and you dont have to splice anything. Just a thought.....
There are 2 wires that are connected to the little wear pad which inserts into brake pad. Pull these out of old pads. Then clip the 2 wires from the wear pad of sensor. Take a butt splice and connect the 2 wires and electrical tape the splice. Then fold the wire back onto its self where it bolts to car. Takes 2 min per wheel.
In the past I have just zip tied the sensors up on the control arm or something out of the way. That way you dont get the brake warning and you dont have to splice anything. Just a thought.....
If you do this, make sure you use stainless steel zip ties. The plastic ones won't get you very far before they melt. This is what I did but the butt splice suggestion is cleaner.
If you do this, make sure you use stainless steel zip ties. The plastic ones won't get you very far before they melt. This is what I did but the butt splice suggestion is cleaner.
Everyone else here seems to have it covered. Our customers use several methods for dealing with the sensors, with the easiest being zip-tying them out of the way. Good work gents...great example of why this is such an awesome community!
__________________
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs Ferodo Racing Brake Pads Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030 jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
Do you think that Ferodo DS1.11 in the front and DS2500 rear would yield similar characteristics to what you mentioned for Endless ME20 and MX72?
I have a C2 Carrera which I plan on taking to a track maybe two weekends this summer. But, I’m a little worried that the stock brake pads will not hold up.
I’m thinking if anything, just to upgrade the pads and keeping the stock drilled rotors. I’m not planning on going down the rabbit’s hole with upgrading all kind of braking components for four of five track days a year.
Originally Posted by 4 Point 0
Very simple advice. If you are going to tune your 3.0 TT whatever format, then up grade to a BBK. Do not waste a single penny, going the long way around. Do not listen to moron's who drive miss daisy and say. "It's a Porsche, the brakes are more than good enough. " If you tune your car, or if you can drive, the stock brakes are rubbish.
I had RSL 29 Yellows, and they squealed like a council bus. If you want the Unicorn brake pad, It is Endless ME20. If you want to be silent for weeks on end and barely have any squeal at all, then Pair the Front Me20 with Rear Mx72+.
That is the best street setup, that can withstand heavy tracking. If you want to be Faster, and don't mind a little squeal occasionally on street , then run Me20 all four corners. Your DS2500 is very similar to the FM1000 that come stock with Brembo BBK. Awesome street pad. They work OK on the track, but if you are fast, you will burn through them. The ME20 work perfectly from Cold to 800C.
OEM pads. I put a brand new set of OEM pads in the rear and disintegrated them in 3 x 20 mins sessions. They were on metal. The front 6 Pot GTS calipers went brown. I wasted money up graded lines and up grading pads and SRF fluid. Still wasn't enough. I now have Brembo BBK 380mm front and rear with SRF and ME20 front and rear. I should have saved a lot of time and money and gone straight to this.
Do you think that Ferodo DS1.11 in the front and DS2500 rear would yield similar characteristics to what you mentioned for Endless ME20 and MX72?
I have a C2 Carrera which I plan on taking to a track maybe two weekends this summer. But, I’m a little worried that the stock brake pads will not hold up.
I’m thinking if anything, just to upgrade the pads and keeping the stock drilled rotors. I’m not planning on going down the rabbit’s hole with upgrading all kind of braking components for four of five track days a year.
How much track time do you have and what tracks do you visit (how hard on braking are they)? That will drive which pads you should consider. If you upgrade your pads you should consider upgrading your fluid too.
Spyderbret,
On your Cayman R install, it looks like the dust shield is still in place behind the discs. You should really remove those. When the discs heat up to track temps, the dust shields reflect and trap heat on the inner disc face, and we've seen them cause lots of problems over the years. Most commonly, it creates a temperature gradient between the inner and outer disc halves. That temp difference causes coning and premature cracking. We suggest completely removing the dust shields with all of our BBK installs. If they can't be completely removed, at least cut them back to the point where they are not covering any of the disc's swept area. Thanks again and let us know if you have other questions!
You recently chimed in to my thread on the new rotors I installed on my GTS. Would you recommend removing these shields on any car that is being tracked? I should have removed it when I had the rotor off, not sure if its possible now. I want to maximize cooling.
06-03-2020 | 04:16 AM
