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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 02:56 AM
  #16  
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Recode? I replaced the battery on my 2013 a few weeks ago....disconnected old battery, replaced and connected new battery. Works exactly as is it did before. Not sure why or what the purpose of a recode would be.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Barnaby
Recode? I replaced the battery on my 2013 a few weeks ago....disconnected old battery, replaced and connected new battery. Works exactly as is it did before. Not sure why or what the purpose of a recode would be.
Post 16

https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1166...on-time-2.html
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 03:24 PM
  #18  
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In colder temps the system charges at higher rates. Today it was 14F and voltage got up to 15.3. My battery is 4 years old -- the dealer tested it and said it was in good shape. Same deal with my previous 991.1.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 03:43 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by visitador
Thanks for link. It appears that recoding is basically just a Porsche tax.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 05:08 PM
  #20  
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Hi everyone, we can certainly concur on these points...mid 14's to high 14's is still fine...and yes in the cooler climates the system will sometimes bump up to compensate as lead/acid batteries are a little more resistant to charging so it takes a little more. As far as the coding and programming, we've never found it necessary to do so...even when using our lithium batteries. There may be instances where people may look at doing so if they have a car that is primarily for track use as it can reflect on performance and power output but again we've never come across this as a "must do" Even if the car pops up any codes or flags after changing out a battery it can easily just a matter of running the car for a bit with new battery for it to realize it has voltage after it had been lost and reset itself.

If you are looking to monitor a battery for performance I did want to mention we also have our Battery Tracker Module that really helps in doing so. Essentially it monitors your voltage and sends the information to an app on your phone via Bluetooth, it retains that info for 30 days so you can see how the voltage is holding as well as see the profile on the charging system. In addition there is also a cranking test and separate charging system test so the info can be pretty helpful.
Lead/Acid Battery Tracker
Lithium Battery Tracker
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 08:17 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by iamracerxMFH
Thank you for the thoughts! I am in CA and mostly driving in 55 to 75 degrees F. I do notice the car is a bit slower on turnover but not bad. Maybe, I should wait a while on the battery. Would you just swap it out yourself?
Mine runs almost always at 14.5 V or so after a few miles. I am in CA and always use a charger when car is idle.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 08:22 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Barnaby
Recode? I replaced the battery on my 2013 a few weeks ago....disconnected old battery, replaced and connected new battery. Works exactly as is it did before. Not sure why or what the purpose of a recode would be.
The battery charging profiles are modified as the battery gets older. Thus the car keeps track of the battery age and "needs" to know when you replace with a new one. That being said, I understand that the modifications to the profile are minor and a replacement battery will probably be charged just fine if the car is not notified of the change.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 08:32 PM
  #23  
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The factory battery is 70aH. Most of the better, and larger, replacement batteries are 92aH. So, I believe the reprogramming matters. I had mine reprogrammed back in October when I did the replacement with the Duracell.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 08:36 PM
  #24  
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Through February, Batteries Plus is running a 20% (code CDP13175) off ($215 to $172) on their big Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM battery with 4 year free replacement warranty.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 11:09 PM
  #25  
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I replaced my battery ~2 mos before my 6-year service. During the service, they registered my 2-month old battery (92 AH) using PIWIS. I noticed a slight charging voltage drop during regular operations since then. While Austin is not that cold in winter (the lowest = high 20 to low 30 F), my initial charging voltage is 14.x. After about 15-20 min of driving, it drops to mid 13 V. I use my Ctek ~ once a month to top off the battery. So far, so good. When *** stops working permanently (good for testing battery health), that is a signal that you should think about replacing your battery.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 01:42 AM
  #26  
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I recently changed my battery
it was very easy
I did have to reprogram the windows
i did not use a tender

BUT - how are you all seeing the voltage?
i don't see that in any of my instrument clusters or options?

🤓
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 01:53 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by afk
I recently changed my battery
it was very easy
I did have to reprogram the windows
i did not use a tender

BUT - how are you all seeing the voltage?
i don't see that in any of my instrument clusters or options?

🤓

http://www.porscheownersmanuals.com/...ual/6/116/page

I bet you did not select the volt meter in the display
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 01:56 AM
  #28  
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Thank you!

i will try this out tomorrow
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 02:07 AM
  #29  
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This topic keeps coming up. I wish greenhorns would use the search function and read what we previously found. As my link on comment no 17 showed, Mr. @Antigravity himself previously said that there is some benefit for registering a new battery. From my own experience, I did notice a lower voltage (ranging from 12.5 to the higher 13+) after changing my battery and having my indi do a registration. A lot of diagnostic tools have that capability. My indi used an Autel tool. So, you don't really need the official Porsche tool. As you will find, if you use the search function, just enter a random 10 numbers/letter for the serial number and 999611095512 for the battery serial number. I installed an Interstate AMG H9 that I bought from Costco.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 09:52 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by kilster
I replaced my battery ~2 mos before my 6-year service. During the service, they registered my 2-month old battery (92 AH) using PIWIS. I noticed a slight charging voltage drop during regular operations since then. While Austin is not that cold in winter (the lowest = high 20 to low 30 F), my initial charging voltage is 14.x. After about 15-20 min of driving, it drops to mid 13 V. I use my Ctek ~ once a month to top off the battery. So far, so good. When *** stops working permanently (good for testing battery health), that is a signal that you should think about replacing your battery.
What is ***? No, I'm not joking.
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