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HVAC Blower motor went crazy - won't turn off

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Old 09-24-2019, 04:54 PM
  #16  
drcollie
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A question. Is this the fan control switch on the center console?
Old 09-24-2019, 08:29 PM
  #17  
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Here's the deal.

Part Replaced: 991-624-423-01 Blower Moter Control Unit - $200.98
Labor - $154.88
10% PCA Discount.

Total out the door was $373.41

Not a bad repair out of warranty.


The part is located passenger side above/behind the glove box and air bag.
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Old 12-21-2019, 05:15 AM
  #18  
hn
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Anyone has more details how to change this part? Or having experience with part from Pelican ?https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...-624-423-01-M6

thx
Old 12-30-2019, 10:30 PM
  #19  
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I just did this and while I did remove the glove box, I think you might not need to do that at all, assuming you can fit on the floor and look up to the area under the glove box. After removing the foam panel You’ll see the part right there but need to move the airbag and then the air tube to make room to remove. Again I think you can but not so sure.

Edit: never mind, I went down and looked again with a mirror. The left side of the airbag mounting plate is partly blocked by glove box (the light housing, part of the glove box) and there is no way you can drop the airbag down on that side without dropping the glove box. The left screw is only partly blocked but may be there’s a way to unscrew it. Then drop the right side first to point the left side up to clear then drop the whole airbag. There is a cutout on each side of the screws almost seems like designed for airbag removal.

Last edited by hn; 12-31-2019 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 06-03-2021, 10:55 PM
  #20  
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this is why i love Rennlist!. just saved over $1700 because of this post/thread.

had these exact same symptoms on my 2013 C2S. heat/ac/airflow direction controls all worked fine. no unusual noise or anything from the blower motor itself. only issue was blower motor stuck on high regardless of what fan speed display was set on.....even when car was turned off/locked up.

took it to a local dealer. first estimate was almost $2000!!! and included a new blower motor !? (even though i told them i had already possibly diagnosed the issue/part from Rennlist). when i questioned the blower motor replacement and pointed out (again) that it should be just the resister/controller, they came back with "ok...it's just the resister/you don't need a blower motor after all" LOL!. then i was quoted over $1000 for just the resister/controller replacement??. we're talking about a part that is under $200 at *full retail*(part # 991-624-423-01) and should take about an hour to replace . unbelievable!

needless to say i passed. called a local indy and was quoted $301 all in/out the door. OEM resister/controller and 1 hour labor. even with the dealers diagnostic fee i'm gonna get hit with, i'll still save over $500. if i had fallen for the blower motor BS, i would have over spent by $1700!.

can't wait to pick my car up tomarrow and get it outta that place. feel insulted/disrespected and violated all at the same time LOL!. gave them 2 chances to do the right thing and they still decided not to. have no problem with people making a profit/living. was prepared to pay more through a dealer because that is the nature of the beast. was thinking 20-30% more?....maybe even 40% more MAX??. certainly not 300% or anything even close!. all i can say is Rennlist Rocks and Thank you VERY much!

Last edited by Levy; 06-03-2021 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 09-14-2021, 02:14 AM
  #21  
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Thanks for the detailed reply I’m sure I have the exact same issue
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Old 09-23-2021, 01:58 PM
  #22  
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Also if you are comfortable with using a non branded OEM manufactured part. Prob the OEM manufacture for porsche, you can get one here for A LOT less

https://www.germanautoparts.com/MAHL...991-624-423-01
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Old 09-23-2021, 02:38 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Joec500
Also if you are comfortable with using a non branded OEM manufactured part. Prob the OEM manufacture for porsche, you can get one here for A LOT less

https://www.germanautoparts.com/MAHL...991-624-423-01
That's great. I just hope it doesn't fail again.
Old 09-23-2021, 05:50 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Joec500
Also if you are comfortable with using a non branded OEM manufactured part. Prob the OEM manufacture for porsche, you can get one here for A LOT less

https://www.germanautoparts.com/MAHL...991-624-423-01
i think that is the same part I replaced mine with, (link below), which is also exactly the same one I removed from the car. Not sure if it originally came with the car or po replaced original with it.

Amazon Amazon


Old 11-06-2021, 02:31 PM
  #25  
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I have the part but dont have a diagram to get to where its at. Have any pics, or a screen shot of a manual by chance?
Old 11-06-2021, 09:25 PM
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Check this

https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1203...wer-again.html
Old 01-17-2022, 06:43 PM
  #27  
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I went into the garage and my HVAC fan must have ran over night as is was still on and battery mostly dead. I have a 2013 4S. I now have the battery on a trickle charger for the night ( I cant get cables in the garage). I had an engine fault a couple days ago and haven't had time to look into it. I'm assuming its the same issue as you guys are having. Any recomendations for the Frederick Maryland area? The Bethesda Porsche is always SUPER high.
Old 01-17-2022, 07:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by rep007
I went into the garage and my HVAC fan must have ran over night as is was still on and battery mostly dead. I have a 2013 4S. I now have the battery on a trickle charger for the night ( I cant get cables in the garage). I had an engine fault a couple days ago and haven't had time to look into it. I'm assuming its the same issue as you guys are having. Any recomendations for the Frederick Maryland area? The Bethesda Porsche is always SUPER high.
without an indy, i think you're at the dealerships mercy and will get gouged. when my resister went out, my indy said it was a fairly easy repair (1 hour labor). my wrenching/DIY days are long gone so i didn't even consider doing it myself. removal of the glove box seemed to be the biggest part of the repair IIRC. if you're up for it, you could try to DIY. if not....finding an Indy somewhere is really the only other option

i do feel your pain though. dealership service/repair is such a rip off. hope you find another way. good luck.
Old 10-27-2022, 09:05 PM
  #29  
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Thanks all for the discussion; didn't take long for me to diagnose this problem in my 991.1. This forum is worth it's weight in gold!

I purchased a trickle charger a couple of weeks ago, and today was the first day I've fired the car up since connecting it. Should I be concerned that the charger is to blame? Or is this a dumb luck coincidence?
Old 10-27-2022, 09:13 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by smitty4240
Thanks all for the discussion; didn't take long for me to diagnose this problem in my 991.1. This forum is worth it's weight in gold!

I purchased a trickle charger a couple of weeks ago, and today was the first day I've fired the car up since connecting it. Should I be concerned that the charger is to blame? Or is this a dumb luck coincidence?
I doubt if the trickle charger has anything to do with it. I do suspect the way how you operate the AC/Heater. This is my wife's car and she always over sets the the temp like turn the heater all the way to 80 from 50, or all the way down to 50 from 90. Most cars are ok with it but I have a feeling the Porsches or just luxury cars in general try accomodate the demand and over work the resistor or other components. Just my wild guess.


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