rubenhak

The AC blower stopped working again. First time it was in Dec 2019. Took it to the shop. Turned out that there was some debris stuck. After cleaning it started working again.

Fast forward 6 months it stopped working. This time want to "fix" it myself. Is that a super complex procedure? How easy is it to access the motor and resistor?

Considering that this is already the second time it stopped working. I was just thinking to replace both motor and resistor. From what I learned they usually fail together.

I found the part numbers: 991-624-423-01(resistor), 991-573-922-00(motor). Was thinking going with non genuine parts:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=P991
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=P991

Anything to be aware of?

spiderv6

much better pricing over here

https://www.getporscheparts.com/oem-...or-99162442301
https://www.getporscheparts.com/oem-...or-99157392200

JSETarga

Mine started making noises under dash on pass side the last few days while ac running. Sounds like a box fan is in my car. You get a noise like that before it went out?

rubenhak

Sorry, i pasted wrong links. Please I was asking about those ones:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=P991
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=P991

rubenhak

Mine was super silent.

Jack F

If these some type of maintenance procedure, please update this thread. Many of us would be interested.

rubenhak

Came across this: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1043096-991-1-service-manual.html

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8tt3ZNrHwa9MWd3S1cxcGlrc3c/view?usp=sharing

Work items on pages:
1323 REMOVING CENTER CONSOLE COVER
1456 REMOVING DASHBOARD MOLDING ON PASSENGER'S SIDE
1374 REMOVING AND INSTALLING CUPHOLDER
1419 REMOVING DASHBOARD COVER AT THE PASSENGER SIDE
2305 REMOVING FOOTWELL LIGHT
1977 REMOVING MULTIMEDIA INTERFACE
1327 remove glove compartment
4430 remove fan motor

hn

Mine was continuously blowing at max speed. I changed the resistor with this by removing the glove box just like the procedure above. If I had to do it again, I would try to remove the foam cover held by 3 plastic screws, and then the black air tube that blocks the access to the resistor first before having to remove the glove box which is a pain. The air tube is held up by one plastic clip on the right side and the console side is just friction fit which you can just pull down. Do that first to see if you can access and pull the resistor. I remember you can see the resistor from under the dash but it’s the air tube that block the access.

About the motor, see if you can access from the trunk. I remember was looking around, opened up some cover and saw the fan somewhere.

Don’t close the trunk after disconnecting the bat like I did, lol...it’s electronically controlled, and your wheels lock is in the trunk (need to remove wheel to pull emergency cable).

rubenhak

Thanks for the info. But I think I'd better replace the motor as well since it already stopped working once 6 months ago. If the motor is bad, it would burn the new resistor once again.

I don't see a good way to access the motor through the trunk. I think it would be best to follow the procedure.

Another member mentioned that the hardest part is to remove the cupholders, and he had to use something like a putty knife and push a string to remove it. How did you go around with that?

hn

it’s not hard to remove the cup holder once you see what the clips looks like (see pic). Just use something strong and flat (panel remover in my case) and push at the right spot, at the same time pulling on the cup holder lightly. The hard part is to remove the side console panel WITHOUT braking one of the cheaply made latching legs. I also took a pic of what I thought could be the motor from the trunk, after removing some parts but not sure if it’s the right motor. But it looks like the motor is right where the resistor is from the pic under the dash.

rubenhak

Thanks for the photos. I will use them as a reference.

One last thing. Can this be done without disconnecting the battery? I can be careful to not to touch the leads and make sure the cables don't short. Asking if there is something special with the car detecting that the motor/resistor got disconnected. Obviously doing this with ignition off.

hn

I removed what I wrote about loosen the torx screws that hold the clips. I went to the car and checked, it’s not possible. The pic was taken after removing cup holder just to see what the clips look like and positioned.

Anyway, in my case, the blower won’t stop so I had to disconnect the battery. I don’t know for sure if the bat needs to be disconnected. I don’t know if you’ve seen this below, it’s from someone’s post to removed the glove box. I either added or modified for my future reference. Warning: do number 6 slowly or you’ll break the alignment pin.

Note: you might not need to do step 1,2 and 6

1. Remove console’s right side panel: Start to pry off the pins from the end toward near the shifter. There is a pin there that needs to be out of the slot before you can pull the panel backward and free from the console. If not, you will break that pin.


2. Remove the panel that holds 12V: remove 1 torx bolt then slide the panel to the front of the car. Disconnect the power source.

3. Remove the cup holders assembly: the assembly is held at the top of the glove box by 2 spring clips. Open both cup holders. Use a thin flat object and insert between the assembly and glove box to push down the left clip. If you push in at the right spot, you’ll feel the spring’s resistance. Just hold it and at the same time hold the cup holder’s arm (not the ring) and pull out slightly until you feel the left side released. Repeat the right side and pull out the whole assembly. The small silver trim next to the assembly door should come out with it. If not, remove it. It’s held by 2 clips, just pry from the base.

4. Remove small side panel that faces the door. Pry off the front pins and wiggle it straight out.

5. Remove the black trim that is next to the glove box and sits below the vent: Fry off the front and pull slowly straight out.

6. Remove fuse (carpet) panel. Lift off the black door sill partly at that end. Pull out the left edge (toward the front of the car) lightly, just enough to separate it from the Velcro. Pull panel slowly toward the seat until the alignment pin clear its slot at the bottom of the panel near the seat, then wiggle the whole panel out. It’s very easy to break the alignment pin.

7. Remove air vent: just pull it straight out (held by 2 top and 2 bottom spring clips). You don’t need to remove the wiring harness. It’s long enough to let you rest the vent on the dash.

8. Remove the power panel inside the glove box: pry off from the bottom where you see notches and pull the whole assembly down. Cut off the zip tie and remove all cables and push them out of the hole

9. Remove the glove box: put a box or some sort of a platform about 8 in high on the floor under the glove box so that you can rest the glovebox on once it’s dropped so you have both hands to remove all the wiring harnesses.
-Remove 2 male torx bolts at the bottom of the glove box, one on each side.
-Remove one Torx bolt under the vent. This bolt has a larger base from the rest.
-Remove one torx bolt that faces the opposite direction, under the door facing panel that you
remove earlier.
-Remove the 3 torx bolts inside on the top of the glove box, not the bolts that hold the springs.
Rest the glove box on the box and remove all wirings and harnesses. For the light on the left, it’s easier to pop it out of its slot before disconnecting the harness.

————————————————————————

To change the blower controller:

1. Disconnect the battery
2. Look up from the floor under glove box and remove the foam cover by unscrew the 3 plastic screws.
3. Loosen up the right airbag male torx bolt
4. Remove the left torx bolt completely and let the airbag drop down on the left. Rotate it out of the
way from the air tube.
5. Remove the black air tube: remove the right plastic screw. Pull down the left side of the air tube.
6. Disconnect the wiring harness from the existing controller
7. Turn the controller counter clockwise and pull it out of its housing.
8. Reinstall everything in reversed order.

rubenhak

Quite detailed. Thanks for sharing. Hard to remember all those steps. I guess need to print it out and just follow the steps one by one.

There is not enough clearance to rate out the controller without messing with airbags?

hn

Now that you mentioned “airbag”, I think that’s the reason to disconnect the battery. Yes you have to lower one side of the airbag. I think I tried to just lower it little by little but it ended up looking like in the pic. Don’t worry about the lengthy instructions. Written details always look more complicated than it is. Can’t comment on replacing the motor but the process of removing everything is not hard at all, just tedious.

Removing the all the cables/power/usb interface in the glove box was the worst part for me, only if I knew how those wiring harness attached to each other (so I can disconnect).

rubenhak

Are you saying that reason to disconnect the battery is for the airbag not to pop unintentionally? Sounds even more scary than before