gdwiggins999

Last weekend I installed a used PSE and took my 2013 C2S to the closest dealer today for button programming. They said they did the coding but the exhaust still doesn't activate.

I don't see a light on the button/any indication in the dash when I push the button. I assume that's not normal operation. Assuming it's not, the console button unit and programming are the only things I can think of that would cause it not to work (or at least appear it is working, I'm aware of the COV issue and have a spare handy if I need it)

When I did the install I bought a used button unit and robbed the PSE button out of it. I then installed it in my original console button unit in the proper position below the auto stop button. The lights, switch contacts, and everything else that looked like it needed to be there were present in the original part.

I'm now not sure if my dealer doesn't know how to program (my first guess) or my transplanted button is the issue. I know with the old PIWIS 2 programmer console button assignment is separate from coding the exhaust.

Thoughts? I wasted a 200 mile trip and an afternoon, second nearest dealer is 140 miles away in Atlanta (I'm in Augusta, GA).

Thanks, David

Code

Try swapping the button with a different one into the same position and see if it activates.

gdwiggins999

I switched in the button unit I stole the PSE button from and it activated the exhaust; unfortunately it doesn't have PASM (and it's for a convertible). Looks like the programming is actually in the button unit and not the AC controls (the PSE button is where the PASM button is on my original unit but on the donor unit it turns on PSE).

Not sure whether they tried to program the button and it didn't take or just didn't realize it needed to be set.

David

drcollie

You have a lot of things going on here, so its going to take some detective work to figure out where the issue is. Because you are buying used pieces and kludging the switch, you really don't know what is operating correctly and what isn't. Chances are the programming is correct.

1) First thing I would do (unless you are really handy with an Ohmmeter and can check the circuits) is purchase a brand new PSE switch and install it.

2) Check your vac hoses to the PSE exhaust and make sure they are routed correctly and firmly attached.

3) the used exhaust may have a bad valve unit. If you do # 1 and # 2, see if you are feeling pressure on the hose lines when the engine is running and a helper is pressing the switch.

Good luck

Dom991.1

Just confirming - it was an S, correct? Then you would not need the wiring harness that you need to add it to a base that came without PSE (which is quite time intensive to route as it has to go from back area to switch panel). I had an independent (but well regarded) install the PSE and swear they could program the switch (they couldn’t) so I had to take it to dealer but dealer had NO problem. Did you have the retrofitting instructions to reference while you did the install? I’ve seen them on here before - the car I added PSE to was a base so I only have the retrofitting instructions for that one. Good luck...

gdwiggins999

Thanks for all the replies. To clarify:
The "switch" I added is the piece of plastic that replaces the blank for the button. The switch was already there--what I added is just the plunger that presses it. The actual switch isn't replaceable--all the switches are made together from the printed circuit board and metal discs held in place on a piece of rubber that covers the circuit board. The switch unit has to be programmed to determine the function of the switches.
Yes, it's an S, with the wiring/COV already present for the standard exhaust.
The exhaust activates and works with the not-quite-right switch panel I bought for the donor plunger--there aren't issues with the vacuum lines or valve actuators as I tested them before installation--besides the switch assignment the car appears coded correctly for PSE.

David

Bud Taylor

Not sure of course unless you can trace the circuit via the back of the board of course as you said when you order a replacement with VIN it xomes with whole board.. i would test valve with air and volts. Actually could be poasible to have 2 poblems here.

JW911

You need that entire button console from the other car. Your original won't work. I don't know exactly why. But I know when I added PSE, the entire new console had to be added and replaces the old one. The old one can't be reprogrammed.

mgordon18

I don't think this is true. My button console is the original, with the new button from a different module. The new one didn't work when installed, so the dealer took the PSE button cap and stuck it into the original.

BTW this also included moving the auto stop/start button down a slot (and reprogramming it, too) so the PSE could go in the middle, as the factory intended.

Homeles

I bought the whole unit for mine. Also, mine lights up when activated. (Which is all the time)

CSK 911 C4S

Time to drill a hole and hard wire it.


That's my Friday funny.

vodkag

You need the qhole console. No way around it and you cant just buy the button and stick it in....it wont work.....dont ask why it wont...but i know it wont....

You can also check to make sure you dont have a vacuum leak on the lines. And make sure is all work, remember is inverse.

Also you can check and see if the valves are working by connecting it to a vacuum hand pump. You should see the vavle open up with vacuum pressure

Nash911

Were you able to resolve the issue? I have a new button pack and it's not lighting up or working. Dealer has had the car all day and still trying to figure out the issue.