991.2 how to shift a cold manual transmission
#16
Originally Posted by PCA1983
My broken 2nd gear synchro was easy to diagnose. When warmed up, stop and push in the clutch. With mine, i could put it in 6 forward gears and in reverse while warmed up and stopped. But no way would it go into 2nd. Moving and warmed up, 2nd gear was still rough and balky at slower speeds. The issue when stopped was the clincher, when I told my service advisor.
#18
Racer
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2018 991 TT
2014 95B S
#19
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Rapter, whatever you do, do NOT replace your gear lube with anything that is not Porsche approved. If you want to play with "fire" after your warranty expires, so be it.
#21
Originally Posted by LexVan
Rapter, whatever you do, do NOT replace your gear lube with anything that is not Porsche approved. If you want to play with "fire" after your warranty expires, so be it.
#22
A quick update this morning.
8-degrees c.
1st to 2nd was slow and stiff but loosened up nicely after about 3-4 shifts and in about 2 mins.
Tomorrow will be 3 degrees and I will try again.
8-degrees c.
1st to 2nd was slow and stiff but loosened up nicely after about 3-4 shifts and in about 2 mins.
Tomorrow will be 3 degrees and I will try again.
#23
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Originally Posted by Rapter
Agreed - I asked Porsche if there is a Porsche approved additive to be executed by the dealer.
#24
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HA.
Your cold shifting experience is the same as my 30 year old VW Scirocco.
Your cold shifting experience is the same as my 30 year old VW Scirocco.
#25
This just came to mind....
Is there a block heater available to solve this issue for me and everyone else ?
Block heater could be plugged in and would preheat the fluid for me... just like an assistant as someone else eluded to.
Is there a block heater available to solve this issue for me and everyone else ?
Block heater could be plugged in and would preheat the fluid for me... just like an assistant as someone else eluded to.
#26
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Originally Posted by Rapter
This just came to mind....
Is there a block heater available to solve this issue for me and everyone else ?
Block heater could be plugged in and would preheat the fluid for me... just like an assistant as someone else eluded to.
Is there a block heater available to solve this issue for me and everyone else ?
Block heater could be plugged in and would preheat the fluid for me... just like an assistant as someone else eluded to.
#27
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One drop of water hitting that light bulb and BOOM. Bulb explodes. I learned this with my first car in the '60s. Cold weather, and your likely to be dripping something in the winter.
#28
Another work around discovered this morning.
Start car
Wait until idle calms down
Wait an additional 30 seconds
Engage 2nd gear
Remain in second gear while driving around neighbourhood until box fluid heats up
Stop at stop sign and take off from 2nd
70% solution...
Start car
Wait until idle calms down
Wait an additional 30 seconds
Engage 2nd gear
Remain in second gear while driving around neighbourhood until box fluid heats up
Stop at stop sign and take off from 2nd
70% solution...
#29
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Porsches have had this symptom over many decades and different models (difficult shifting while cold). I wouldn’t say it’s ‘normal,’ but it’s common. There often isn’t a fix that’s easy to do. The Porsche gearboxes are built tougher than a regular street car, particular durable during high speed and tracking, and the side effect is compromised agility when cold.
I would check the current transmission fluid level to make sure it’s not dry. If it is dry, fill with Porsche standard fill. If that doesn’t work or the oil is at a OK level, then I would search for an oil fill that specifically addresses cold shifting. I would also make sure the shift linkages and shifter are in perfect working order. The difficulty in cold shifts is always present (cold oil is think, that’s just physics), but doubles or triples down if you are fighting friction for the shifting mechanism rubbing or not lining up.
If you find a different fluid, here’s what to watch out for: different fluid may be more slippery in general, which helps in cold shifting, but has an expense of increased wear at the extreme high temperate side, like when tracking the car in high heat or when shifting fast and hard after the car has fully warmed up (45+min trans temp). So if you like to track or shift hard/fast, I would keep the originally recommended oil fill and just deal with the cold shifting issue.
EDIT: I forgot to ask if stopping the car completely to engage any gear with the engine running makes cold shifting easier? If it’s impossible to shift when rolling along and the engine is on, and then while stopped you can grab any gear, it’s the probably thick/cold transmission fluid. If grabbing gears is hard with the engine off and stopped, now we have to start looking at the clutch components.
I would check the current transmission fluid level to make sure it’s not dry. If it is dry, fill with Porsche standard fill. If that doesn’t work or the oil is at a OK level, then I would search for an oil fill that specifically addresses cold shifting. I would also make sure the shift linkages and shifter are in perfect working order. The difficulty in cold shifts is always present (cold oil is think, that’s just physics), but doubles or triples down if you are fighting friction for the shifting mechanism rubbing or not lining up.
If you find a different fluid, here’s what to watch out for: different fluid may be more slippery in general, which helps in cold shifting, but has an expense of increased wear at the extreme high temperate side, like when tracking the car in high heat or when shifting fast and hard after the car has fully warmed up (45+min trans temp). So if you like to track or shift hard/fast, I would keep the originally recommended oil fill and just deal with the cold shifting issue.
EDIT: I forgot to ask if stopping the car completely to engage any gear with the engine running makes cold shifting easier? If it’s impossible to shift when rolling along and the engine is on, and then while stopped you can grab any gear, it’s the probably thick/cold transmission fluid. If grabbing gears is hard with the engine off and stopped, now we have to start looking at the clutch components.
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I would just take it easy until it warms up and not worry about it. As someone else posted you probably should not anything other than the factory fill; however, I recently used Spectro in my bike's tranny and it shifts much better than it did with the Harley fluid so I guess I am not practicing what I preach!