.2 GTS header to turbo, getting stuck on installation
11-08-2020, 11:08 AM
#31
Former Vendor
OK, gotcha. I was hoping it as that easy to resolve 
Have you got access to an impact? Seized threads typically respond well when an impact is applied. Heat can work well too.
Have you got access to an impact? Seized threads typically respond well when an impact is applied. Heat can work well too.
11-08-2020, 11:10 AM
#32
Former Vendor
^ Very true. WD40 while acting like a mild lubricant and penetrant was originally made as a Water Displacement tool. A penetrant specific product will serve you better.
11-08-2020, 11:10 AM
#33
100%.
I’m just getting older and just complaining.
Back in the day, I used to swap motors in my open backyard on a dirt driveway and actually looked forward to doing it. That drive is mostly gone now.
Now that I have kids and more responsibilities , time, and really energy, is becoming so much more valuable.
I’m just getting older and just complaining.
Back in the day, I used to swap motors in my open backyard on a dirt driveway and actually looked forward to doing it. That drive is mostly gone now.
Now that I have kids and more responsibilities , time, and really energy, is becoming so much more valuable.
It's more having the right tools and parts to make it go smoothly. It will also be more difficult if you try to 'save time' by doing things like leaving the rear wheels on, when you'd have a significantly easier time with eyes ON what you're doing and better tool access. Taking long cuts will only make the process more frustrating. Get some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (my personal favorite) and let it sit overnight.
There will always be the occasional instances of seized threads that catch a lot of attention in forums, but in reality its not very common. Be overly prepared, take your time, and if you feel you may get yourself into a situation that you might not be prepared, or have the resources to get yourself back on track, then consider saving all that frustration and find a local shop. The headers on these cars are far easier to install than MANY other cars and a competent shop should be able to do it in an hour; 2 if they've never seen a Porsche before (although I wouldn't go there, lol). We've done header swaps in 30 minutes HOT off the dyno (while wearing welding gloves) and we're not a shop that does this everyday.
As my dad would say, 'don't be penny wise and dollar stupid', 'cut off your nose to stop the bleed', 'if you don't want to find yourself in a hole, don't start digging', 'work smart, not hard'...
There will always be the occasional instances of seized threads that catch a lot of attention in forums, but in reality its not very common. Be overly prepared, take your time, and if you feel you may get yourself into a situation that you might not be prepared, or have the resources to get yourself back on track, then consider saving all that frustration and find a local shop. The headers on these cars are far easier to install than MANY other cars and a competent shop should be able to do it in an hour; 2 if they've never seen a Porsche before (although I wouldn't go there, lol). We've done header swaps in 30 minutes HOT off the dyno (while wearing welding gloves) and we're not a shop that does this everyday.
As my dad would say, 'don't be penny wise and dollar stupid', 'cut off your nose to stop the bleed', 'if you don't want to find yourself in a hole, don't start digging', 'work smart, not hard'...
11-08-2020, 11:20 AM
#34
I had a can of PB Blaster but i guess it was too old because nothing came out lol. I'll need to stop and get some today. Thanks for all the help!
11-08-2020, 08:44 PM
#35
So a little PB Blaster and some elbow grease ended up doing it. The stud finally came out! I had to screw it back in and out a few times, and I think that did the trick. In the end though, the stud came out pretty crooked and now the new m8 bolt will not screw in to the turbo flange. The factory ones do not either. I think the flange threads got messed up in the process. I'm thinking to thread them in 5/16-18 just so prevent future issues or get a timesert repair kit for m8x1.25. Thoughts?
Last edited by StergTurboS; 11-08-2020 at 08:56 PM.
11-08-2020, 11:17 PM
#36
So a little PB Blaster and some elbow grease ended up doing it. The stud finally came out! I had to screw it back in and out a few times, and I think that did the trick. In the end though, the stud came out pretty crooked and now the new m8 bolt will not screw in to the turbo flange. The factory ones do not either. I think the flange threads got messed up in the process. I'm thinking to thread them in 5/16-18 just so prevent future issues or get a timesert repair kit for m8x1.25. Thoughts?
11-09-2020, 08:37 AM
#37
Former Vendor
I second running a tap through there first. The material is pretty robust if it cleans up. Just make sure you apply anti-seize so it's not an issue in the future.
5/16-18 isn't large enough to completely remove the M8 threads; you might end up with a mangled mess. If the M8 threads are not salvageable, consider tapping to M10 x 1.25 and then using a M10 to M8 thread insert. If done right it would give you even more robust thread strength and you'd retain factory spec fasteners.
5/16-18 isn't large enough to completely remove the M8 threads; you might end up with a mangled mess. If the M8 threads are not salvageable, consider tapping to M10 x 1.25 and then using a M10 to M8 thread insert. If done right it would give you even more robust thread strength and you'd retain factory spec fasteners.
11-09-2020, 07:20 PM
#38
11-09-2020, 07:24 PM
#39
So I finished the header install, tightened everything as close as I could to feeling as they were to remove, trying not to over-torque anything. Unfortunately the one thing I did not buy was a torque wrench, so I ordered one and I'll get this thing back on ramps in a week or two and tighten everthing to spec. Can someone please share the torque specs for the turbo flange side and the engine-side flange?
Also, when I started the car up for the first time, I let it heat up and upon pulling out I could hear a little tapping noise. Wondering if maybe one of the gaskets isn't tightened down sufficiently. After a mild test run and then return home, the noise went away, so maybe the gaskets heated up and expanded? Also, there is a slight burning smell, of which I'm guessing is the WD-40 and PB blaster I sprayed on the turbo flanges just burning off?
Thanks again for all the help and input everyone.
Also, when I started the car up for the first time, I let it heat up and upon pulling out I could hear a little tapping noise. Wondering if maybe one of the gaskets isn't tightened down sufficiently. After a mild test run and then return home, the noise went away, so maybe the gaskets heated up and expanded? Also, there is a slight burning smell, of which I'm guessing is the WD-40 and PB blaster I sprayed on the turbo flanges just burning off?
Thanks again for all the help and input everyone.
11-09-2020, 09:36 PM
#40
yes the tapping noise was from the small exhaust leak and the gasket eventually expanding. May come back though when it’s cold again but tightening to spec should take care of that. Did you also use cross cross pattern when tightening the bolts/nuts? Need to seat it evenly.
If you didn’t have the issue with that one stubborn bolt, how would you rate the difficulty and how long do you think it would have taken?
I installed the sport cats myself and can probably do it in 3-4 hours now that I have the right tools and know what to do. Do you think the header install is easier?
Just debating whether it’s worth just paying my Indy to install it. They’re charging
If you didn’t have the issue with that one stubborn bolt, how would you rate the difficulty and how long do you think it would have taken?
I installed the sport cats myself and can probably do it in 3-4 hours now that I have the right tools and know what to do. Do you think the header install is easier?
Just debating whether it’s worth just paying my Indy to install it. They’re charging
So I finished the header install, tightened everything as close as I could to feeling as they were to remove, trying not to over-torque anything. Unfortunately the one thing I did not buy was a torque wrench, so I ordered one and I'll get this thing back on ramps in a week or two and tighten everthing to spec. Can someone please share the torque specs for the turbo flange side and the engine-side flange?
Also, when I started the car up for the first time, I let it heat up and upon pulling out I could hear a little tapping noise. Wondering if maybe one of the gaskets isn't tightened down sufficiently. After a mild test run and then return home, the noise went away, so maybe the gaskets heated up and expanded? Also, there is a slight burning smell, of which I'm guessing is the WD-40 and PB blaster I sprayed on the turbo flanges just burning off?
Thanks again for all the help and input everyone.
Also, when I started the car up for the first time, I let it heat up and upon pulling out I could hear a little tapping noise. Wondering if maybe one of the gaskets isn't tightened down sufficiently. After a mild test run and then return home, the noise went away, so maybe the gaskets heated up and expanded? Also, there is a slight burning smell, of which I'm guessing is the WD-40 and PB blaster I sprayed on the turbo flanges just burning off?
Thanks again for all the help and input everyone.
11-09-2020, 10:00 PM
#41
yes the tapping noise was from the small exhaust leak and the gasket eventually expanding. May come back though when it’s cold again but tightening to spec should take care of that. Did you also use cross cross pattern when tightening the bolts/nuts? Need to seat it evenly.
If you didn’t have the issue with that one stubborn bolt, how would you rate the difficulty and how long do you think it would have taken?
I installed the sport cats myself and can probably do it in 3-4 hours now that I have the right tools and know what to do. Do you think the header install is easier?
Just debating whether it’s worth just paying my Indy to install it. They’re charging
If you didn’t have the issue with that one stubborn bolt, how would you rate the difficulty and how long do you think it would have taken?
I installed the sport cats myself and can probably do it in 3-4 hours now that I have the right tools and know what to do. Do you think the header install is easier?
Just debating whether it’s worth just paying my Indy to install it. They’re charging
Tools you should have on hand aside from your basic wrench and ratchet set: 10mm triple square 3/8" drive ratchet attachment (get a short one), m8x1.25 tap just in case one of your turbo flange holes gets mangled (they are like $6), a torque wrench, and ratchet extensions for getting the header nuts back on because some are hard to get to after the new headers are in.
Last edited by StergTurboS; 11-10-2020 at 09:32 AM.
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Purekoryo (11-10-2020)
11-10-2020, 08:19 AM
#42
can you explain what you mean by a 1/2” ratchet attachment? Are you talking about a 3/8” drive short extension for the 10mm triple square?
I personally enjoy doing work myself to learn from the experience, and it was not too difficult of a process. Luckily there is a decent amount of space to work with, and with my car on ramps it was plenty high and comfortable to work under. It took just one hour to do the passenger side header, simple as pie. No stripped/mangled studs, everything came out easily and went in easily. I spent around 3 combined hours working to get that one stud off on the drivers side turbo flange and then rethreading a couple flange holes. More time was spent going back and forth to the hardware store. Had I been lucky and gotten that one stud out easily, I'd say the entire process would of taken 2.5 hours from beginning to end. The trick to that one stud is applying the penetrating oil, and trying to unscrew it as evenly as possible. It's a tight space, so if you use a lot of extensions, the stud might start coming out crooked (which is what happened to mine) and destroy the flange threads in the process. Not to mention make it infinitely more difficult to remove. My suggestion is not to use any crazy extensions or connectors. You can fit a ratchet in there with a 4 inch straight extension (no bends or anything). If you find it hard to unscrew that stud at any point, just stop and turn it back in a half a turn, then start backing it out again. That made all the difference for me.
Tools you should have on hand aside from your basic wrench and ratchet set: 10mm triple square 1/2" ratchet attachment (get a short one), m8x1.25 tap just in case one of your turbo flange holes gets mangled (they are like $6), a torque wrench, and ratchet extensions for getting the header nuts back on because some are hard to get to after the new headers are in.
Tools you should have on hand aside from your basic wrench and ratchet set: 10mm triple square 1/2" ratchet attachment (get a short one), m8x1.25 tap just in case one of your turbo flange holes gets mangled (they are like $6), a torque wrench, and ratchet extensions for getting the header nuts back on because some are hard to get to after the new headers are in.
11-10-2020, 08:24 AM
#43
btw did you have to use swivels and extensions for the smaller 1/4” drive sets? I saw on one of the DIY where someone pretty much used the entire set of 1/4” drives to get to the difficult to reach areas. Were you OK with the regular 3/8” drive set with maybe just a 4” extension?
I personally enjoy doing work myself to learn from the experience, and it was not too difficult of a process. Luckily there is a decent amount of space to work with, and with my car on ramps it was plenty high and comfortable to work under. It took just one hour to do the passenger side header, simple as pie. No stripped/mangled studs, everything came out easily and went in easily. I spent around 3 combined hours working to get that one stud off on the drivers side turbo flange and then rethreading a couple flange holes. More time was spent going back and forth to the hardware store. Had I been lucky and gotten that one stud out easily, I'd say the entire process would of taken 2.5 hours from beginning to end. The trick to that one stud is applying the penetrating oil, and trying to unscrew it as evenly as possible. It's a tight space, so if you use a lot of extensions, the stud might start coming out crooked (which is what happened to mine) and destroy the flange threads in the process. Not to mention make it infinitely more difficult to remove. My suggestion is not to use any crazy extensions or connectors. You can fit a ratchet in there with a 4 inch straight extension (no bends or anything). If you find it hard to unscrew that stud at any point, just stop and turn it back in a half a turn, then start backing it out again. That made all the difference for me.
Tools you should have on hand aside from your basic wrench and ratchet set: 10mm triple square 1/2" ratchet attachment (get a short one), m8x1.25 tap just in case one of your turbo flange holes gets mangled (they are like $6), a torque wrench, and ratchet extensions for getting the header nuts back on because some are hard to get to after the new headers are in.
Tools you should have on hand aside from your basic wrench and ratchet set: 10mm triple square 1/2" ratchet attachment (get a short one), m8x1.25 tap just in case one of your turbo flange holes gets mangled (they are like $6), a torque wrench, and ratchet extensions for getting the header nuts back on because some are hard to get to after the new headers are in.
11-10-2020, 09:40 AM
#44
Yes 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive ratchet will do. Full disclosure, I already have sport cats and exhaust on my car prior to doing headers. I'm not sure if my directions would work if you have the stock cats in place.
I have swivels and extensions although you do not need them to get the 3 bolts off the turbo flange (if you have sport cats). I started with the swivels and long extensions and that is why I believe my stud started coming out crooked. With the swivels you cant get proper leverage on it and you also lose considerable torque. The only way I managed to get the last stud out was with the 3/8" ratchet, with the small 4" extension and the 13mm (long not short) socket. No swivel needed. It will get back there from above the sport car and allow you to make 1/4 turns at a time.
I have swivels and extensions although you do not need them to get the 3 bolts off the turbo flange (if you have sport cats). I started with the swivels and long extensions and that is why I believe my stud started coming out crooked. With the swivels you cant get proper leverage on it and you also lose considerable torque. The only way I managed to get the last stud out was with the 3/8" ratchet, with the small 4" extension and the 13mm (long not short) socket. No swivel needed. It will get back there from above the sport car and allow you to make 1/4 turns at a time.
11-10-2020, 09:53 AM
#45
thanks a bunch. Yes I just recently installed the sport cats so I should have a little bit more room.
I guess I’ll give it a shot! But I think I’m going to start on the driver’s side first in case I run into issues and able to put everything back together and let a shop finish it up.
I guess I’ll give it a shot! But I think I’m going to start on the driver’s side first in case I run into issues and able to put everything back together and let a shop finish it up.
Yes 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive ratchet will do. Full disclosure, I already have sport cats and exhaust on my car prior to doing headers. I'm not sure if my directions would work if you have the stock cats in place.
I have swivels and extensions although you do not need them to get the 3 bolts off the turbo flange (if you have sport cats). I started with the swivels and long extensions and that is why I believe my stud started coming out crooked. With the swivels you cant get proper leverage on it and you also lose considerable torque. The only way I managed to get the last stud out was with the 3/8" ratchet, with the small 4" extension and the 13mm (long not short) socket. No swivel needed. It will get back there from above the sport car and allow you to make 1/4 turns at a time.
I have swivels and extensions although you do not need them to get the 3 bolts off the turbo flange (if you have sport cats). I started with the swivels and long extensions and that is why I believe my stud started coming out crooked. With the swivels you cant get proper leverage on it and you also lose considerable torque. The only way I managed to get the last stud out was with the 3/8" ratchet, with the small 4" extension and the 13mm (long not short) socket. No swivel needed. It will get back there from above the sport car and allow you to make 1/4 turns at a time.