4 Point 0

I haven't done cats yet. I have COBB Stage 1 and IPD and AMS Intercoolers. COBB stage 2 should be out in a month. I most likely will do Akra cats around the same time.

basic666

Nice! Don't think you will regret it... Check out my thoughts in the other thread

Marc D Gonsalves

Marc D Gonsalves

StergTurboS

I am doing the header install right now and i'm on that last reverse nut on the one side of the turbo flange. I can't get the thing off. Any tips guys?

VektorPerformance

Do you mean the stud?

StergTurboS

Correct yes. I got the nut off. Need to get the stud out.

Purekoryo

man you guys are scaring me.

I’m 40% into the sport cat install and was planning to install the headers right after. But now thinking about taking it to a shop after the sport cat install!

btw I have a set of fabspeed headers.

Do you guys know if I can reuse the stock nuts and bolts on the headers?

VektorPerformance

Well I can tell you that with our headers we include a couple nuts one of them is smaller than OEM. So you double nut the stud with the bigger one on the bottom, and put a socket on the nut closer to the flange and then loosen. The lower nut will tighten against the upper nut, and spin out the stud. They are M8 and should be easy to source at a local hardware store.

luv2sleep

Yes.

VektorPerformance

It's more having the right tools and parts to make it go smoothly. It will also be more difficult if you try to 'save time' by doing things like leaving the rear wheels on, when you'd have a significantly easier time with eyes ON what you're doing and better tool access. Taking long cuts will only make the process more frustrating. Get some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (my personal favorite) and let it sit overnight.

There will always be the occasional instances of seized threads that catch a lot of attention in forums, but in reality its not very common. Be overly prepared, take your time, and if you feel you may get yourself into a situation that you might not be prepared, or have the resources to get yourself back on track, then consider saving all that frustration and find a local shop. The headers on these cars are far easier to install than MANY other cars and a competent shop should be able to do it in an hour; 2 if they've never seen a Porsche before (although I wouldn't go there, lol). We've done header swaps in 30 minutes HOT off the dyno (while wearing welding gloves) and we're not a shop that does this everyday.

As my dad would say, 'don't be penny wise and dollar stupid', 'cut off your nose to stop the bleed', 'if you don't want to find yourself in a hole, don't start digging', 'work smart, not hard'...

StergTurboS

I got all the studs out fairly easily but that reverse one is killing me. I got the smaller nut on top of the larger nut and the socket fits over both with no issue now. The damn stud just doesn't want to turn. Compared to the rest, it feels siezed. I feel like all the others came out like butter. Does anyone recommend torching that stud to heat it up? Would that do anything to loosen it up? I'll spray it down with some pb blaster overnight and see if it's easier tomorrow. Any other tips are greatly appreciated!

VektorPerformance

That's not a reverse thread. Hopefully that's your issue, and it comes right off going lefty loosey.

StergTurboS

Poor choice of words on my end. I meant the stud that is applied opposite of the rest of them.. I'm using the same rotation as any other stud to attempt to remove it. I soaked it in some WD40, and might give it a little heat today to see if that helps. I know it's mainly a leverage issue, i'm just hoping I didn't screw up threads or sheer it off, otherwise i'll be drilling that thing out.

Purekoryo

Use PB blaster or liquid wrench instead. WD40 won’t really do anything. The molecules are too large for it to seep into the thread, as it’s purely a lubricant.