mfitton

My rear engine lid won't open with the switch by the drivers side seat, it makes the sound like wants to release but does not open. I assume that the release cable came loose so I need to get access to the latch to reattach the cable don't see how I can get to it when I raise the spoiler. Anyone know how I can get to this area there isn't enough room to lift the plastic cover that hides this area with the lid in the closed position.

RoWa

https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1068...e-cable-2.html

zoiks

Joec500

Be prepared to have to pay the labor to have this put back in, this happened to me and they forked over 2 hours of labor to resolve this issue even though I was still under factory warranty.

Wujohn

I was just getting ready to call the dealership - I have the same issue. I am going to kick someone's a** if they tell me I have to pay. Seems to be a common problem that should be covered.

Porsche_nuts

Another dumb Porsche design. What is the purpose of having a safety release cable if it cannot be easily accessed?

mfitton

Safety release will not work either when the end of the cable is disconnected from its slot.

zoiks

CSK 911 C4S

My electric actuator is failing on the frunk release.

You can hear it trying........ and then after a few attempts it will pop.

Need to add it to the list of things to get fixed before hitting 100K

Porsche_nuts

Wow, did not know that. So inspecting the latch everytime you are about to close the engine bay lid is a MUST!

Maybe a good idea to super glue that cable housing!!!

mfitton

Ok, got mine fixed and it was not an easy fix. Lucky I have a close friend who is a Porsche Master Tech and he had to fix a few of these over the years. If you know what you are during it is a solid 2 hour job and the dealer will charge a minimum of 3 hours. You need to take the rear bumper off, the spoiler, tail lights and the air-box. We first tried pulling the emergency cable and it completely pulled out of the latch housing, whoever worked on the car last never put the cable back in the latch correctly, meaning it needs to completely snap into the latch and also snaps into a circular guide behind the right taillight. Also there is a clip that the cable goes into so that the slack remains correct when operating. I just bought this car 2 weeks ago and the release button was doing its job but it worked its way out of the housing and became disconnected because it was never put back in correctly. This is not a flaw in the design just some dumbass tech who didn't do his job. There is a you-tube available for taking the rear bumper off that would help you fix this problem.

Ptech

Assuming you have a coupe with the cable that goes into the rear latch, not sure if this is what you're talking about. But this is common when removing the air guide when replacing the oil filter. It's very important that this cable is checked and in place and secured before the rear lid is closed. I've seen this mistake made before. You can use an air wedge, commonly used by lock smiths, and with a long pick (hose pick) finesse it back into place or release the latch. It's very tricky.

mfitton

You are correct sir, the Tech that did the oil change prior to me taking possession of the car must have removed the cable from its housing and didn't put it back in correctly. So when you get an oil change make sure the cable is properly installed in the latch housing because it gets moved out of the way when installing the new oil filter.

mreloc

Is this a 991.1? I thought I read somewhere that the issue was corrected in .2?

mfitton

Yes 991.1 but there was no problem to be fixed, the design is fine. It was the dumb *** tech at the independent shop that f**ked it up when he did an oil change. The release cable needs to be clipped into the latch housing, the clip on top of the air guide and the metal eyelet that guides the cable into where the emergency pull is located. So it needs to be secured in 3 places!