Rear latch cable unhooked
My rear engine lid won't open with the switch by the drivers side seat, it makes the sound like wants to release but does not open. I assume that the release cable came loose so I need to get access to the latch to reattach the cable don't see how I can get to it when I raise the spoiler. Anyone know how I can get to this area there isn't enough room to lift the plastic cover that hides this area with the lid in the closed position.
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Originally Posted by mfitton
(Post 15236394)
My rear engine lid won't open with the switch by the drivers side seat, it makes the sound like wants to release but does not open. I assume that the release cable came loose so I need to get access to the latch to reattach the cable don't see how I can get to it when I raise the spoiler. Anyone know how I can get to this area there isn't enough room to lift the plastic cover that hides this area with the lid in the closed position.
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Originally Posted by mfitton
(Post 15236394)
My rear engine lid won't open with the switch by the drivers side seat, it makes the sound like wants to release but does not open. I assume that the release cable came loose so I need to get access to the latch to reattach the cable don't see how I can get to it when I raise the spoiler. Anyone know how I can get to this area there isn't enough room to lift the plastic cover that hides this area with the lid in the closed position.
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Originally Posted by zoiks
(Post 15236762)
The short answer is no. I have the same problem and have researched the topic. If the cable is detached from the latch like mine I have not seen anyone show a step by step method to open the lid. I have CPO warranty and I hope to have the dealer fix it within the next two weeks. I’ll see if I can get the mechanic to tell me how he accesses the latch so it can be repaired. It looks like about 5-6 years later this is failing since I’m seeIng a lot of posts on this topic. |
I was just getting ready to call the dealership - I have the same issue. I am going to kick someone's a** if they tell me I have to pay. Seems to be a common problem that should be covered.
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Another dumb Porsche design. What is the purpose of having a safety release cable if it cannot be easily accessed?
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Originally Posted by Porsche_nuts
(Post 15237233)
Another dumb Porsche design. What is the purpose of having a safety release cable if it cannot be easily accessed?
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Originally Posted by mfitton
(Post 15237548)
Safety release will not work either when the end of the cable is disconnected from its slot.
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My electric actuator is failing on the frunk release.
You can hear it trying........ and then after a few attempts it will pop. Need to add it to the list of things to get fixed before hitting 100K |
Originally Posted by zoiks
(Post 15237746)
Correct. The safety release cable will only work if the electronic actuator is what has failed. And from my experience the cable disconnected from the latch after the dealer closed the lid after they changed the oil. Better not be a charge with CPO. If you change the oil yourself I would inspect the latch prior to closing the lid! Wow, did not know that. So inspecting the latch everytime you are about to close the engine bay lid is a MUST! Maybe a good idea to super glue that cable housing!!! |
Ok, got mine fixed and it was not an easy fix. Lucky I have a close friend who is a Porsche Master Tech and he had to fix a few of these over the years. If you know what you are during it is a solid 2 hour job and the dealer will charge a minimum of 3 hours. You need to take the rear bumper off, the spoiler, tail lights and the air-box. We first tried pulling the emergency cable and it completely pulled out of the latch housing, whoever worked on the car last never put the cable back in the latch correctly, meaning it needs to completely snap into the latch and also snaps into a circular guide behind the right taillight. Also there is a clip that the cable goes into so that the slack remains correct when operating. I just bought this car 2 weeks ago and the release button was doing its job but it worked its way out of the housing and became disconnected because it was never put back in correctly. This is not a flaw in the design just some dumbass tech who didn't do his job. There is a you-tube available for taking the rear bumper off that would help you fix this problem.
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Assuming you have a coupe with the cable that goes into the rear latch, not sure if this is what you're talking about. But this is common when removing the air guide when replacing the oil filter. It's very important that this cable is checked and in place and secured before the rear lid is closed. I've seen this mistake made before. You can use an air wedge, commonly used by lock smiths, and with a long pick (hose pick) finesse it back into place or release the latch. It's very tricky.
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Originally Posted by Ptech
(Post 15245639)
Assuming you have a coupe with the cable that goes into the rear latch, not sure if this is what you're talking about. But this is common when removing the air guide when replacing the oil filter. It's very important that this cable is checked and in place and secured before the rear lid is closed. I've seen this mistake made before. You can use an air wedge, commonly used by lock smiths, and with a long pick (hose pick) finesse it back into place or release the latch. It's very tricky.
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Is this a 991.1? I thought I read somewhere that the issue was corrected in .2?
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Originally Posted by mreloc
(Post 15246817)
Is this a 991.1? I thought I read somewhere that the issue was corrected in .2?
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