Z00mie

Connect the two PSE actuator valves with short 90mm braided stainless line. Crimp both Oetiker clamps to secure the tubing. Then, connect elbow off the COV to a 420mm length of Tekalan line connected to 190mm braided stainless line, crimp them together via supplied Oetiker clamp (Tekalan should be inserted at least 10mm into braided line). Terminate braided stainless end of 2 piece assembly to thru double male connector (engine side), again crimp Oetiker clamp. Use 2nd braided stainless 190mm line to go from double ended male connector (heat shield, muffler side) to PSE exhaust valve with two spigots. Crimp Oetiker at actuator first , then connect to thru double male connector last after center muffler fully installed, crimp. Done with plumbing.

vodkag

z00mie

thanks for the info, that really helped. plumping is all done now....

all i need now is a second person to help me lift and position the PSE for reinstalling :-)

Z00mie

Its pretty easy to do by yourself! Try starting the center muffler in the gap between bumper skin and exhaust hanger off center (exhaust 6-12 inches offset from where they will finally end up, muffler exits point slightly down towards rear). Push it up into the area it will nest in, then slide it sideways into lateral alignment, then rotate up using the exits for leverage and onto the cat studs, it'll twist/rotate right onto the studs (loosely install 6 nuts). Make sure to have the gaskets hanging on the cat studs and the two muffler clamps pre positioned on the side cans (nuts down. flanges rearward). It helps to mark half inch increments on the side muffler flanges. you can then verify you've got them centered on the joint between side mufflers and center muffler. . Open the two securing bands and fish them around the hanger and muffler, reconnect the ends, then snug 6 nuts on cats, muffler clamps and muffler bands, in that order.
I'd be happy to give you a hand, but that darn commute would be a killer...

vodkag

LOL Thanks, i shall try that this weekend. there is always the wife who is usually willing to help :-D

I also gotta figure out how to replace the button panel inside the car. The good new is that I got a quote from my P dealership for programming at 1 hr which is $188. I was hoping they will just do it next time when i take it in for warranty work....but I guess $188 isnt bad at all neither (and I dont have to wait LOL)

Jasonpdx

Hey Renners,

I just wanted to share my experience doing this DIY project. I ordered all the parts on the list that the oringial poster provided, I ended up purchasing a used center muffler off ebay with 20k miles on it for about half the price of new. So my total for all parts was around $750.00, I did reuse the stock exhaust tips from my S as well.
The overall skills needed are very mid level, the car comes apart flawlessly and is well thought out. The vacuum tubing routing was pretty straight forward and I ended up purchasing the right crimper for the vacuum tubing at my local auto parts store for $9.99, so need to buy an expensive tool on amazon. Porsche had a bit of trouble ordering the center console control unit, mine kept coming in as a GT3, not sure why.. but after a couple more attempt they got the stock unit. I did not want to install the buttons myself, so I left that to them and the programming. If you leave the center muffler only this well cause the car to shift odd, it is not programmed right at that time and it made my PDK shift slowly until programmed. So I would not recommend that route to anyone, or assume it will be fine without completion of the project. Side note, my exhaust actuator solenoid was malfunctioning on my stock exhaust set up and caused problems at Porsche when they were trying to program the switch, they figured this out and replaced the solenoid and now all is good. My car was under warranty, but they seemed a little peeved about it so I didn't push my luck asking them to cover the $45.00 dollar part and labor for it. Porsche is quite strange I have learned, they don't love people who tinker or think outside the box to save money on an item like this. All said and done I managed to do my complete PSE set up on my 991.1S for $1200.00. I love the sound and the fact I added the only feature my car did not come with from factory that I would have ordered.

Good luck and feel free to PM with questions if need help

- Jason

Pure745

Dang - great info. I might try to source it like this and then have Supreme Power do the install. Or, just get an exhaust w/o PSE.. but PSE seems very appealing when I don't want it that loud.

Homeles

GTOWN83

I have checked into this with my local Porsche Dealership in Livermore, CA. They said, "$5,700 out the door."

vodkag

i got my PSE button programmed....unfortunately i probably missed something on the vacuum line, because the tech did some test and found that there is probably a pinch somewhere......which means i would have to redo it......

I also got them to program the windows to close and mirror to fold with the lock button pressed on the key (i do not have entry and drive option) all for $188 bux (plus a free lunch, not bad i must say LOL)

so right now everything is working and is always on "**** of the neighbor" mode :-) which is fine

No a big deal, just gotta find time (is a LOT easier now that I have done it once)

PS I usually avoid taking my cars to any dealership....but if you must....Mckenna in SOcal is where I'd take it. (been taking my Audi, BMW and Porsche there for years.....and they are prob the most reasonable)

Pure745

So what was your "all-in" price for the PSE? Still debating doing that or doing a full system.

vodkag

slightly used center muffler- $600 shipped
PSE switch and other parts- $450 shipped
Dealership programming- $188
3-4 hours of garage time (if done right the first time LOL)
A couple for tools (optional)- Crimp tool for clamp $10 and vacuum tester pump and gauge at harbor freight $25

Note this is WITHOUT the PSE exhaust tips which cost $900 (redonkulous). I am using the non PSE exhaust tip which works just fine

All and all about $1250 which is less than half of the cost of the kit at $2700 (plus installation is a pretty simple DIY)

Z00mie

Awesome job Vodkag! I really do love the sound of the 3.8 with PSE. The 3.0 liter cars sound like a Suby with a phart-can exhaust though... I keed I keed!!!

ryoryo

Z00mie

You must do a video!

vodkag

Thanks! went back and fixed the issue yesterday. so is now working perfectly.

I am still not really sure how the metal (male/ male) connector goes, because once i put the exhaust on, there is no way i can reach it to connect the line. So i end up just connecting the line first before setting in the exhaust and just ran the line the best that i can (without touching the muffler) I figure that it should be OK since is steel braided anyways.

worst case is that i would have to replace the vacuum line later, which is no big deal