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You need to plug the fiber optic cable from the car into the port on the MOST box. They're still in the PCM:
you’re awesome!
Ill try when I get home.
Really appreciate your help!
Zed!
I have a big smile on my face now.
There no way I can make it without your help.
Thank you very much Bro!
I'm on the same track as you. These are must have mods in my opinion. Coming from a Macan Turbo with full multi function options and CarPlay is painful to not have those features.
you’re awesome!
Ill try when I get home.
Really appreciate your help!
Zed!
I have a big smile on my face now.
There no way I can make it without your help.
Thank you very much Bro!
Thank you, you're welcome. We all have to start somewhere! One thing I forgot to add is that your MOST box might have a little rubber plug thing in the fiber optic port. You need to remove that before attemptng to plug the orange fiber optic cable from the car into the port. It can be tricky to remove - just piggle at it until it comes out. You can't, theoretically, insert the OEM fiber optic port the wrong way around, but I managed it once, so be careful. Then, so long as your MOST box has good red, yellow and black power connections, you should be good to go. Judging by your great photos, you already have the RCA FL OUT and FR OUT connected to the INs of the MOST box, which is another thing that can trip people up. Good luck, and please report back.
^^^^ One more thing - you may need to unwrap the black OEM tape from around the original car harness so that you can lengthen the orange fiber optic cable to enable you to connect it to the MOST box. Once you have sound, wrap your RCA connectors in some electrical tape. That will prevent them coming apart and also stop any metal parts contacting any other metal parts and maybe causing an issue. (That's two more things, I know. Math was never my best subject )
Thank you, you're welcome. We all have to start somewhere! One thing I forgot to add is that your MOST box might have a little rubber plug thing in the fiber optic port. You need to remove that before attemptng to plug the orange fiber optic cable from the car into the port. It can be tricky to remove - just piggle at it until it comes out. You can't, theoretically, insert the OEM fiber optic port the wrong way around, but I managed it once, so be careful. Then, so long as your MOST box has good red, yellow and black power connections, you should be good to go. Judging by your great photos, you already have the RCA FL OUT and FR OUT connected to the INs of the MOST box, which is another thing that can trip people up. Good luck, and please report back.
It’s working(last night)
Playing around and learning more from you guys on new system now.
Thank you very much.
That's the NaviPlus referenced in your initial post (I tracked that video down from NaviPlus's thread in another forum). I found NaviPlus today in a random search and I want to see if this is a real product or a one-off type thing that someone was able to make work.
I'm extremely interested in this if it's an actual product
That's the NaviPlus referenced in your initial post (I tracked that video down from NaviPlus's thread in another forum). I found NaviPlus today in a random search and I want to see if this is a real product or a one-off type thing that someone was able to make work.
I'm extremely interested in this if it's an actual product
Hey @Plutoway - did you mean to post this in a different thread? I don't think you will get much response about NavPlus in this thread. No problem - just a heads-up.
The first one (on the right below) is the same diameter as the original ****, it's made of hard plastic and fits the spindle perfectly. As you'd expect, it does not cover the "glowing ring" underneath because it is the same size as the original. In my opinion the black finish and subtle silver ring is a much better look than the full chrome effect of the original ****. So If you want to keep the size the same, then this is the **** for you!
The next two are very similar - they are both larger diameter than the original **** and have a rubbery feel to them, which gives them a more premium feel than the first ****. I bought these to try to block out the glowing illumination rings underneath which, IMO, is overkill.
The main difference between the two is the chrome ring. In the second one the ring is a bit thicker and sits proud of the rubber side and is very slightly domed compared to #3. Here's some pics with **** #2 fitted on both sides of the HU
The only thing with #2 is that it is a tight fit on the spindle. The **** has a D type-connector and there is a small metal sheath inside it which makes it a very tight fit. If you remove the sheath it'll just fall off - I guess you could remove the metal sheath and then put plumbers or electrical tape over the spindle to pack it out. Either way you can make this work.
And on to #3 which visually is my favourite - I prefer the more subtle chrome ring which makes the whole thing look slightly less bulky. But...at the time of writing I can't get it to fit the spindle. It also has a D Type connector with a metal sheath inside, but it is far too tight to fit and for some reason I can't (yet) prise the sheath out, having tried all sorts of implements to extract it. I will keep trying even if I end up breaking it because one of the ***** has a scratch in the chrome ring and so I'd have to order another if I can find a way to make them fit.
Sorry I can't post pics of this **** on the HU, but hopefully this give you an idea...**** #3 on the left and #2 on the right
TBH these ***** are so cheap that I'd recommend buying both #2 and #3 if you're looking for an "oversized ****" and then you can make your mind up when you can see them up close.
Hope this is helpful!
My tasks for the rest of the weekend are:
1. Do a factory reset on my ZOHONG branded HU so we get the learning of how much of the firmware actually gets reset
2. Make up an adapter loom to see if i can stop the hiss on my non-Bose unit
3. Remove the ZOHONG and fit my new Erisin HU and then see if I have the hiss and also the "over bright" lights problem
4. Get told off by the wife for not doing the things she has on her to-do list
OK, for what it's worth the factory reset option does not appear to revert the firmware.
As a recap, my ZOHONG branded HU offered me an online update for the MCU which I took, only to find after installation that it was dated a couple of years older than the version that came with the head unit. No further updates were offered, so I could not revert.
I just did a factory reset and the MCU version is unchanged, so now we know!
Thanks for the **** pics, Andy The one I think I will go with is #2. I do like the idea of an oversize **** and I am pretty sure my wife will prefer this in her Cayman. I have just ordered a pair.
Looking forward to your report on the Erisin. I hope it fixes the bright light issue, as this will prove that it is fixable and all we need to do then is find out how Erisin are doing it, which may help wih those of us who have non-Erisin units, but basically the same.
@andy2111 Thanks for the information about the buttons. I also like 2 and 3 and I'm ordering them. Sorry to hear that the reset didn't bring your unit back to a more recent software level, but it was worth trying.
Interesting enough, I checked yesterday for updates and there is a new version of the CarCanBus application available. From its name, looks like a very recent one (2024-02-01). I did install it but didn't notice any change/improvement. May be solving internal bugs/improvements or functionality that is not functional in our units/cars.
Looking forward to your tests with the new Eresin unit and hopefully good support from them.
@Chuck245 I think that the software is the UI onto the canbus, but it's not the canbus firmware itself which you would update from the system menu. It may reveal some new or changed features, but is unlikely to fix underlying bugs like the bright lights
So my update from yesterday:
Erisin unit connected - it's Android 13 (4/64GB)
Still have the bright lights
Still have the hiss - but it's got a squelch type feature (if you remember CB radio) where the hiss is very quickly silenced if there is no audio signal. If you stop a music source you can hear the hiss for a fraction of a second before it is suppressed and the hiss is there also a fraction of a second before audio plays. So it's better, but a bit of a software fudge What it needs is a system option to set the output of the quadlock speaker outputs to line level
My new harness designed to plug and play with the line-out RCAs didn't fit - more below
The external mic has an eacho problem for the person you're calling e.g. they get the echo of themselves
The data SIM I put in didn't register on the network (works fine in an old phone) - could be reception so need to try a SIM from my main phone which is on a better network for my home location
Lots of software setup still to do including boot logos (I think that's documented somewhere which will help)
The most frustinting thing was I built a harness (on the left below) to allow me to plug and play between the car loom and the HU, talking the audio from the line-out RCAs and into the factory female plug that goes to the ASK amp and speakers. I even built it so I could add ground loop isolators if required..
But the brown plug doesn't fit the speaker block that you can remove from the quadlock. This is the connector that goes to the ASK amp
Does anyone know what this connector is called and if you can get a male connector that will fit it? It will need to have the 8 pin configuration you see on the rear of the head unit.
This should allow me to make a fully reversable mod to connect the line out RCAs to the ASK amp. I don't want to cut off the current connector block and solder the wires to male RCAs as I want it easily reversable in case Porsche ever get round to making PCCM for the 991.1
So, some progress, but a great deal still left to do!
So I got impatient and made up the right connector by cutting out what I needed from a spare quadlock and then joining it to the RCAs
The result is (eventual) success! With some interesting observations:
With the quadlock disconnected and before I connected the line-out RCAs e.g. with no connection between the HU and speakers at all, there was still a hissing from the speakers (I suspected a ground loop issue)
With the line-out RCAs connected through my (expertly made!) new harness, there was still a hiss (really gotta be a ground loop issue)
I fitted the 2 x ground loop isolators (see the pic above) and the hiss was gone!
It also fixed the bizarre issue where the reverse camera was throwing audio interference through the speakers (FWIW I didn't have this issue on the Zohong HU)
So my conclusion is that at least the non-Bose head units have a ground loop issue that affects both the amplified outputs from the quadlock and also the line-out RCA connectors
If we can identify the right male connector to mimic the quadlock pins, then it will be easier than cutting down a full quadlock for anyone else who wants to try this...
I also got my SIM card working, you need to do a full reboot for it to detect the SIM card. Interestingly I can't see a menu option to just reboot, so I used the pin hole reset button on the front
Still plenty more to do, but good progress so far..
02-04-2024, 09:48 PM
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