Muuhaha

Yupp I had the digital readout screen up the whole time just to verify the actual number I was at. Thanks for the heads up on the short tests too!

I had the vent clip open, but the test didn't run because there was too big a gap between the ending temp and the radiator outlet temp. The outlet temp never moved from 33C while the engine temp was at 85-100C, so either the sensor is bad (doubt it), unplugged (again doubt it) or there's just no coolant flowing in the return pipe on that side (Dr side I believe is where the sensor is located...)

Muuhaha

***UPDATE***

I was able to bleed the system fairly well, but the remap of the gauge kind of screwed me

I jacked the car up in the rear, about 6.5" from the ground to the bottom of the tire

I ran the test with the coolant fill cap off and vent valve up. Lots of bubbles. It failed the test though. It needs to read 20*C difference from engine to radiator outlet temp sensors. I had a diff of 24*C but the engine temp went to 233*F

Ran it again with the cap on. Opened the cap after the test and filled the system back up (failed again).

Ran the test again, car got to 216F or so, didn't overheat, but still failed the test. I realize it failed the test because of the remap. The temp would have read 194F but was instead reading like 209F. If I didn't do the remap I would have had like a 6*C difference and probably passed the 1st time.

Took it for a drive 3x around the block, as I drove, the temps went down (moving air)... I went to un-map the temp display just to verify my idea, but it looks like the Autel doesn't allow for coding? Hopefully I'm wrong, but it wasn't in the same spot as the other devices. I'm going to double check -- it'd be a shame if it doesn't have that feature!!

Rumble-Bee

I don't think that is an accurate conclusion. It was pointed out that the display and the actual sensed value are two different things. and that the DME, etc. uses the real value for all of its function and overheating alarms, etc. It has the real temps available .. thus the display remap. I suspect you could remap everything to 145 degrees (for example) and the car would still use the actual temps for all of its functions like thermostat control, etc.

Also the 991 GT3 has the same display characterization table, but the Y values are set to the X values, so it displays actual tempos at all times.

Muuhaha

Mmmm interesting --- so maybe I still just had some air in the system. I'm letting it cool down now, and will see if I'm low in the morning for a top off. But having the rear jacked up definitely made the difference for me. Thanks for being so informative during this whole thing!

Rumble-Bee

I am glad to help, I am excited with your progress. BTW: I just used the Launch x431 on a friends 991.1 tts. He just had resprayed and they disconnected the battery. The o2 and cat I/M sensors would not go “Ready” after lots of driving and the Porsche dealership looked at him with a blank stare when he mentioned “short tests”

I went through full set of short test on my x431 and all I/M are now “Ready” for him. It feels weird holding the throttle pedal to the floor and the car is just idling. For some test it goes to 2000 and others 2500. For most it just idles.

Muuhaha

Nice! I have my salvage inspection on Friday so hopefully all goes well -- If so I'll run the short tests and do the state inspection on Saturday!!

Muuhaha

Passed the salvage inspection, can't do my title work till Tuesday due to the holiday though. 1st time driving the car such a long distance. About an hour total. Highest temps were 219F with 216F being the usual.

I returned all the scanners and got the Autel MaciSys MS906 Pro. Should be here soon. It seems like you can only do coding on the pro and higher Autel scan tools. I'm looking for one that has all the features I need, so hopefully it fits the bill!!