Picked up a 991.2 TTS with Boost Logic Widowmaker 1100 package.
#16
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700-750lbft is about the limit of most factory rods in these high end cars - somewhat anecdotal as I've seen ttrs and r35s survive more but its very much advised against by people who would warranty the work done right. If you go for rods then it usually turns into a "since were splitting the case..." logic and you find yourself in some 4L mountain towing thing in no time with a 2nd mortgage and the ability to run down the Flash
.
Unless you live at a track, more than 900awhp tends to need bottom end work, fuel adjustment re e85/meth, and timing pulls enough to earn the car a seat on the short bus - power levels often not fully usable on the street with maintenance and operational considerations significantly more onerous than normal cars. Its also a bloody 911 - not the best candidate for learning the ins and outs of daily-ing builds IMO. NC is pretty populous and as I recall quite ticket-happy; your setup strikes me as well balanced between being faster than most things one can buy and supportable without a serious history owning built things while still passing for maybe stock/street legal in places that care about noise and emissions. Most people in a position to own these aren't street racing off stop lights for a few thousand bucks every night (clutches and braces if they are so inclined...) so on-street its more or less "pass 3 cars where normally its just 2" sort of advantage along with the ability to confuse sports bike riders (even more than they had to be to get on it :-p).
Congratulations, that is a gorgeous setup and should be gobs of fun. If the temperature thresholds thing are a bother (I've frozen my posterior a couple of times in the woods around lejeune), they can be addressed automatically through software (boost limits on temp, fuel, etc thresholds along w timing safety nets) but that may require a standalone which tend to upset OBD scanners at inspection stations (not end of days but a pita to play "match the pigtail"). Curious how the electronics are doing in there - I've seen a significant increase in owner complaints about digital components after the 991.2 refresh and wondering how all of yours are doing with the polite but nontrivial changes.
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Unless you live at a track, more than 900awhp tends to need bottom end work, fuel adjustment re e85/meth, and timing pulls enough to earn the car a seat on the short bus - power levels often not fully usable on the street with maintenance and operational considerations significantly more onerous than normal cars. Its also a bloody 911 - not the best candidate for learning the ins and outs of daily-ing builds IMO. NC is pretty populous and as I recall quite ticket-happy; your setup strikes me as well balanced between being faster than most things one can buy and supportable without a serious history owning built things while still passing for maybe stock/street legal in places that care about noise and emissions. Most people in a position to own these aren't street racing off stop lights for a few thousand bucks every night (clutches and braces if they are so inclined...) so on-street its more or less "pass 3 cars where normally its just 2" sort of advantage along with the ability to confuse sports bike riders (even more than they had to be to get on it :-p).
Congratulations, that is a gorgeous setup and should be gobs of fun. If the temperature thresholds thing are a bother (I've frozen my posterior a couple of times in the woods around lejeune), they can be addressed automatically through software (boost limits on temp, fuel, etc thresholds along w timing safety nets) but that may require a standalone which tend to upset OBD scanners at inspection stations (not end of days but a pita to play "match the pigtail"). Curious how the electronics are doing in there - I've seen a significant increase in owner complaints about digital components after the 991.2 refresh and wondering how all of yours are doing with the polite but nontrivial changes.
#17
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I am in Union County but no problem for me either with emissions even catless due to O2 extenders. I did have one guy remark n the smell but I told him the decat pipes were 50 cell cats and he passed me.
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FIR3 (07-05-2024)
#18
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I'd de-tune it to 700 WHP if you dont plan on racing it seriously
get the most conservative 93 pump gas tune you can get and just drive it..but thats just me. these cars are fkn fast bone stock. they can run low 10s!
im putting a set of hybrid turbos and injectors into my 996TT just to make alittle more than your car does with a tune lol
get the most conservative 93 pump gas tune you can get and just drive it..but thats just me. these cars are fkn fast bone stock. they can run low 10s!
im putting a set of hybrid turbos and injectors into my 996TT just to make alittle more than your car does with a tune lol
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I'd de-tune it to 700 WHP if you dont plan on racing it seriously
get the most conservative 93 pump gas tune you can get and just drive it..but thats just me. these cars are fkn fast bone stock. they can run low 10s!
im putting a set of hybrid turbos and injectors into my 996TT just to make alittle more than your car does with a tune lol
get the most conservative 93 pump gas tune you can get and just drive it..but thats just me. these cars are fkn fast bone stock. they can run low 10s!
im putting a set of hybrid turbos and injectors into my 996TT just to make alittle more than your car does with a tune lol
I agree it would be nice to have a pump gas only map for peace of mind but from what I hear, this thing barely uses any meth.
I plan to get the car on an AWD dyno to check a few boost levels and adjust the tune if needed. If the 800whp map in fact has 650 lb ft of torque that is probably pretty safe for around town from what I’m reading. Especially if I’m not launching the car and not running slicks.
My current thinking based on learning thus far is that I would like to get an intermediate config that makes 850whp and just under 700 lb ft of torque to be my new “high” map for special occasions. The current high map of 900/750 sounds like it’s overkill for my needs and unnecessarily risky.
Last edited by FIR3; 07-04-2024 at 09:35 PM.
#20
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My last 3 cars ran low to mid 10s and objectively that is plenty, but subjectively you get used to it. Many of my friends cars run low 10s as well so it’s nice to be a tad faster 😉.
I agree it would be nice to have a pump gas only map for peace of mind but from what I hear, this thing barely uses any meth.
I plan to get the car on an AWD dyno to check a few boost levels and adjust the tune if needed. If the 800whp map in fact has 650 lb ft of torque that is probably pretty safe for around town from what I’m reading. Especially if I’m not launching the car and not running slicks.
My current thinking based on learning thus far is that I would like to get an intermediate config that makes 850whp and just under 700 lb ft of torque to be my new “high” map for special occasions. The current high map of 900/750 sounds like it’s overkill for my needs and unnecessarily risky.
I agree it would be nice to have a pump gas only map for peace of mind but from what I hear, this thing barely uses any meth.
I plan to get the car on an AWD dyno to check a few boost levels and adjust the tune if needed. If the 800whp map in fact has 650 lb ft of torque that is probably pretty safe for around town from what I’m reading. Especially if I’m not launching the car and not running slicks.
My current thinking based on learning thus far is that I would like to get an intermediate config that makes 850whp and just under 700 lb ft of torque to be my new “high” map for special occasions. The current high map of 900/750 sounds like it’s overkill for my needs and unnecessarily risky.
Id dial it down unless you can fork out 30k for a new box if it breaks. a mid to low 10 sec street car is fasst AF but i hear you on getting used to it.
BTW..do you know what % tint that is? the car look awesome btw
Last edited by vtec_; 07-04-2024 at 09:49 PM.
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Someone correct me if im wrong but i dont think you can get parts for the PDK boxes and if it breaks you need to buy a new one from porsche or find a good used one.
Id dial it down unless you can fork out 30k for a new box if it breaks. a mid to low 10 sec street car is fasst AF but i hear you on getting used to it.
BTW..do you know what % tint that is? the car look awesome btw
Id dial it down unless you can fork out 30k for a new box if it breaks. a mid to low 10 sec street car is fasst AF but i hear you on getting used to it.
BTW..do you know what % tint that is? the car look awesome btw
It’s unfortunate that there are not gear sets like with GT-R, but our Porsche PDK is amazingly stout from what I’ve been reading. There are people with built engines and more power on stock gear sets. In the threads I found where people did break a gear they were running 60-130 times in the 3s and doing lots of hard launches at the strip. Since there aren’t rebuild parts, those guys just ended up picking up used stock PDK gear boxes from what I’ve read. They appear to be going for 10-15k on eBay. Clutches appear to be the weak point from what I’ve read. My friend with AIM 850R spent 13k on Dodson 10 plate clutch and I believe these can be replaced after the fact if stock clutches start slipping. Someone correct me if I’m wrong, I’m new to the platform and trying to learn all I can.
Not sure what the tint percent is but I expect it’s dark enough I’m going to have to go to this one place my friend recommended for annual safety inspections and bring the workers lunch
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Last edited by FIR3; 07-05-2024 at 12:07 AM.
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I spoke with owner who built the car last night and got a little more info.
Boost logic initially tuned the car on the dyno to around 800 whp peak on 93 + m1 meth at 25 psi. Dyno was a RWD dyno and showed around 750 toque which is a bit higher than ideal.
He was told 750 torque in RWD dyno is a lot different than AWD on the street but owner was still concerned so he had Boost Logic street tune the car in conjunction with Kuwait tuner Faisal Dashti of Xtreme performance to limit the torque.
Faisal reportedly set the car up to run at two peak boost levels (25 and 28-29psi) via changing correction offset on boost controller (base:10 vs base:30).. Both use the same tune and both use 93 plus meth, no race gas. (Is no race gas normal at high boost?) At low boost, max torque setting at the clutch is limited to 650 lb ft. At high boost it’s limited to 750 lb ft and estimated HP is 900 whp +/-. At high setting, the car ran a 60-130 in 4.9 seconds in Texas 100 degree heat.
There are not any dynos after street tuning but logs were reviewed by Faisal. Faisal told him only run the high boost if temp outside is above 55F, otherwise keep it on low boost to be safe when weather is cool. Car will be on low boost when I receive it and it’s been near 100 degrees this summer in NC.
There is an AWD dyno near me in NC so I’m thinking it may be a good idea to dyno the car on booth boost settings to get a better look at the torque curve. Maybe run it on intermediate boost level as well to find configuration with just under 700 lb ft. I may even be able to book some time in conjunction with a tuner to review everything and adjust as needed to be sure it’s all safe.
Any advice or recommendations others may have is welcomed as well. I’m in uncharted territory here. Thanks.
Boost logic initially tuned the car on the dyno to around 800 whp peak on 93 + m1 meth at 25 psi. Dyno was a RWD dyno and showed around 750 toque which is a bit higher than ideal.
He was told 750 torque in RWD dyno is a lot different than AWD on the street but owner was still concerned so he had Boost Logic street tune the car in conjunction with Kuwait tuner Faisal Dashti of Xtreme performance to limit the torque.
Faisal reportedly set the car up to run at two peak boost levels (25 and 28-29psi) via changing correction offset on boost controller (base:10 vs base:30).. Both use the same tune and both use 93 plus meth, no race gas. (Is no race gas normal at high boost?) At low boost, max torque setting at the clutch is limited to 650 lb ft. At high boost it’s limited to 750 lb ft and estimated HP is 900 whp +/-. At high setting, the car ran a 60-130 in 4.9 seconds in Texas 100 degree heat.
There are not any dynos after street tuning but logs were reviewed by Faisal. Faisal told him only run the high boost if temp outside is above 55F, otherwise keep it on low boost to be safe when weather is cool. Car will be on low boost when I receive it and it’s been near 100 degrees this summer in NC.
There is an AWD dyno near me in NC so I’m thinking it may be a good idea to dyno the car on booth boost settings to get a better look at the torque curve. Maybe run it on intermediate boost level as well to find configuration with just under 700 lb ft. I may even be able to book some time in conjunction with a tuner to review everything and adjust as needed to be sure it’s all safe.
Any advice or recommendations others may have is welcomed as well. I’m in uncharted territory here. Thanks.
It adds a margin of safety.
Tuners can play with torque numbers by pulling timing at those boost levels but that presents other problems.
900whp can likely be done with pump gas but I think the car would have to use a pretty good bit of meth to get there safely.
My car made 800/650 on pump/meth and 880/700 on race gas/meth and it was at a few psi less than your settings, if I recall correctly, but bigger turbos.
AIM built me a car I could drive every day without much worry.
That 800whp chart looks good, maybe a little aggressive on the low end.
I wouldn't worry much about the clutches or PDK.
Things do break or fail but there are a bunch of cars like yours out there and they tend to stay together if they're done correctly.
I only did the clutch on my car because I have a tendency to overbuild things a bit.
edit: keep in mind, my comments about the tune, gas, meth, etc. is based on what I have learned over the last three years or so talking to AIM and reading all I can find.
I'm not trying to second guess what the tuner did with your car and create doubt for you.
I'd say get it on the dyno on the low setting, see what it does and go from there.
If you are going to start moving boost levels around on the dyno, have someone there who can keep an eye on things to keep it safe.
Last edited by vrybad; 07-05-2024 at 07:46 AM.
#23
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buying a modded car in an "as is" situation is very risky especially in a high dollar toy. Boost Logic has a good reputation in the fast car world if i were you i'll spend a little more $ on a PPI with dyno done by BL and right there you can make a decision to detune for more reliabilty unless you're going out there breaking records and bank accounts, otherwise Happy Motoring!
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Based on my knowledge, race gas would be suggested for 28-29psi.
It adds a margin of safety.
Tuners can play with torque numbers by pulling timing at those boost levels but that presents other problems.
900whp can likely be done with pump gas but I think the car would have to use a pretty good bit of meth to get there safely.
It adds a margin of safety.
Tuners can play with torque numbers by pulling timing at those boost levels but that presents other problems.
900whp can likely be done with pump gas but I think the car would have to use a pretty good bit of meth to get there safely.
Do you know the specifications on the AIM turbos? I tried to find this info to compare to the g25-660s on mine but haven’t been able to find the exact specs yet.
This chart was from Boost Logic dyno tune prior to the torque being pulled down with the street tune. Hopefully torque on revised tune comes on more gradually. I plan to verify.
Apparently he had car street tuned at higher peak boost then just turned boost back down via boost controller offset before sending car off. The tune should be able to pull fuel via fuel trims to compensate at lower boost. If the boost was turned back up to original or intermediate setting, I wonder if it could compensate quickly enough?
Last edited by FIR3; 07-05-2024 at 11:19 AM.
#25
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buying a modded car in an "as is" situation is very risky especially in a high dollar toy. Boost Logic has a good reputation in the fast car world if i were you i'll spend a little more $ on a PPI with dyno done by BL and right there you can make a decision to detune for more reliabilty unless you're going out there breaking records and bank accounts, otherwise Happy Motoring!
Last edited by FIR3; 07-05-2024 at 11:13 AM.
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A well thought out plan. Enjoy that bad ride !
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FIR3 (07-05-2024)
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I really like their exhaust, it sounds very, very good - congrats on the addition, enjoy in good health.
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FIR3 (07-05-2024)
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Y
My friend has an AIM 850R with Dodson clutches and he would have sold it to me for less. It was very tempting as AIM is very reputable in Porsche world but it’s a 991.1 car in black / black. I really wanted a 991.2 in GT silver and don’t want another black car.
Do you know the specifications on the AIM turbos? I tried to find this info to compare to the g25-660s on mine but haven’t been able to find the exact specs yet.
My friend has an AIM 850R with Dodson clutches and he would have sold it to me for less. It was very tempting as AIM is very reputable in Porsche world but it’s a 991.1 car in black / black. I really wanted a 991.2 in GT silver and don’t want another black car.
Do you know the specifications on the AIM turbos? I tried to find this info to compare to the g25-660s on mine but haven’t been able to find the exact specs yet.
Only recently that they have started introducing Garretts Turbos in their ES900 kit.
Looking at your dyno graph, 767 ftlb (wheel) max torque at 4000 rpm is pretty wild. Might be a bit of strain on the PDK.
Mine is max 685ft lb wheel at 5220rpm.
Just my 2 cents, still learning after 3 yrs owning mine.
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For 991.2 Turbo S, as far as I know, ES Motor ES850 kit, which is essentially AIM 850 kit, uses hybrid VTGs (Stock turbo housing).
Only recently that they have started introducing Garretts Turbos in their ES900 kit.
Looking at your dyno graph, 767 ftlb (wheel) max torque at 4000 rpm is pretty wild. Might be a bit of strain on the PDK.
Mine is max 685ft lb wheel at 5220rpm.
Just my 2 cents, still learning after 3 yrs owning mine.
Only recently that they have started introducing Garretts Turbos in their ES900 kit.
Looking at your dyno graph, 767 ftlb (wheel) max torque at 4000 rpm is pretty wild. Might be a bit of strain on the PDK.
Mine is max 685ft lb wheel at 5220rpm.
Just my 2 cents, still learning after 3 yrs owning mine.
My car was done by them in earlier 2021 and it was a G30-770 setup which was the newer AIM/ES850 setup at the time.
It had a lot of headroom for a whole lot more power.
Time does march on, however, and new tech brings new recipes.
I do believe the 850 setups are full frame turbos with external gates, with some exceptions.
Last edited by vrybad; 07-07-2024 at 10:05 PM.
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