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What lift is that? Did you know the concrete specifications or did they test for you prior to install? Is it only secured to the floor?
Love it!
Tom
It's an American Custom Lifts model Maximum One 6.5 (6,500 lbs. capacity). The manual states: "The lift is designed for concrete pad installation. The minimum concrete pad design must be 4 inch minimum thickness concrete with a minimum compressive strength of 3000 PSI, and reinforced with steel bar."
I didn't have it tested ahead of time but spoke to my home builder before ordering the lift. Yes, the lift only secures to the floor.
BTW, I recommend having FAL as it's nearly 4" tall to get over the center cross beam. And I measured the lowest clearance of the front undercarriage plastic molding to be ~2.75". See pics.
It's an American Custom Lifts model Maximum One 6.5 (6,500 lbs. capacity). The manual states: "The lift is designed for concrete pad installation. The minimum concrete pad design must be 4 inch minimum thickness concrete with a minimum compressive strength of 3000 PSI, and reinforced with steel bar."
I didn't have it tested ahead of time but spoke to my home builder before ordering the lift. Yes, the lift only secures to the floor.
BTW, I recommend having FAL as it's nearly 4" tall to get over the center cross beam. And I measured the lowest clearance of the front undercarriage plastic molding to be ~2.75". See pics.
Thanks! I called them, they're sending me some info. That 4" is to park under it?
Thanks! I called them, they're sending me some info. That 4" is to park under it?
Thanks for the info!
Yes, if you plan to park under the lift. I suppose if you always back it in (w/drivers door of the "open" side of lift - not center post) you don't need FAL.
An American Custom Lift 4.5 (compared to a 6.5) can be ordered with a low profile baseplate that brings the clearance height down to 2.5”. But, you have less lifting capacity and height compared to a 6.5. And you’ll lose 2” of lifting height on the 4.5.
Yes, if you plan to park under the lift. I suppose if you always back it in (w/drivers door of the "open" side of lift - not center post) you don't need FAL.
Chances are the GT3 would be on top.
I want the 6.5 but I have 11' ceilings. I am hoping I can fit the 6.5 column (11'11") into a cut out in the sheet rock ceiling between what I hope are 12" floor joists!
I have a Hellcat and that's 4500# so I need the capacity.
I want the 6.5 but I have 11' ceilings. I am hoping I can fit the 6.5 column (11'11") into a cut out in the sheet rock ceiling between what I hope are 12" floor joists!
I have a Hellcat and that's 4500# so I need the capacity.
I have a 12' ceiling and they recommended a 3" cut (140" height). I'd also recommend going with the wider 91" arms - you can lay the standard length ramps perfectly between the tracks.
Update: I used a magnet against the ramps to confirm that the ramps provided are indeed almost entirely steel, and not aluminum as advertised, so Challenger is very misleading. The runway of the ramp is aluminum, but all the framing and casing is steel, and these things are heavy! I'm not pleased and am taking it up with the distributor; meanwhile, I will be looking at other ramp options, including Race Ramps.
I just weighed the Challenger standard ramps. They are 36" long and weigh 36 lbs each. Your 50" ramps at 40 lbs are relatively featherweight by comparison, LOL.
Update: I’m mid-install on my Challenger CLP47 (4-post) - installers are due back on Tuesday to do the electrical and replace a ramp that arrived damaged. I have the GT3 on it: cannot go on front first without FAL up, even with the extended ramps. Will scrape. I expected this based on my calculations, and indeed it’s confirmed. That said, I greatly prefer backing it in - much easier to line up the rear tire on the runways. Not a lot of margin for error on width, though that seems to be true of other brands (runway width was similar for the other brands I considered). I was a bit surprised at how little margin for error there is front to back - the car’s wheelbase is quite long for the lift, primarily because of the stops at the front and rear (removable set) of the lift, which protrude diagonally up and away from the car at a height that would hit the front spoiler if FAL is down, meaning there’s limited space where you can park it face forward. I did not account for that in my original calculations, so there's less grace than I'd expected. It’s workable, just tight; easier if parked backwards because the defuser clears the diagonal wheel stops. In hindsight, I probably would’ve gone up a size the to the CLP49, but what I have will do and the additional floor space is welcomed. I would’ve also done plastic drip trays instead of the metal ones - the metal is okay, just not visually impressive enough to warrant the cost differential. Also, they gave me 3 trays, but it really needs a 4th - had the GT3 freshly washed and once back on the ramp, it was dripping through (glad there wasn't another car under it, yet).
Two gripes: (1) before ordering it, I was told 2 weeks for delivery; once they had my order (and half my money), the ETA shot up to 5 weeks, plus another week and a half of delays on getting the install scheduled; (2) the extended aluminum ramps are quite heavy - I'd estimate ~40 lbs each - I'm in good shape and have no issue moving them around, but they're not for the faint of heart.
Spoke to a company today about the CL4P9 and the guys opinion on the 7" high ramps was go another manufacturer like Bend-Pak or he recommended a less expensive Auto Lift both that have 4" high ramps. How high are the CL4P7? Are they 7" high as well?
I have this one. I HIGHLY recommend that you ask them to change the height of the side guard rail to 1" high. Its too high and if you don't have someone guiding you in on to the ramps and your wheel strikes it that guard rail, it will nick your rims. Ask me how I know......
Spoke to a company today about the CL4P9 and the guys opinion on the 7" high ramps was go another manufacturer like Bend-Pak or he recommended a less expensive Auto Lift both that have 4" high ramps. How high are the CL4P7? Are they 7" high as well?
The specs sheet says 5.5", but mine is measuring nearly 6.5" post-install. Haven't yet diagnosed the cause of the variance. There are no shims and it's bolted directly to the floor; lift looks to be fully suppressed, so not sure if they fudged the numbers or something else. I didn't do the P9 because I was concerned about the 7" lift height (and otherwise larger dimensions) - since it's coming in nearly 1" above spec, it's probably good I didn't go up in size, as 8" would be problematic. As is, I need ~63"+ ramp to get the GT3 on front-first - those are hard to come by; at an 8" elevation, I would need well over 80" - good luck finding that! I'm content to back onto the lift - far easier way to line up the tires on the runways.
Originally Posted by Semitone
I just weighed the Challenger standard ramps. They are 36" long and weigh 36 lbs each. Your 50" ramps at 40 lbs are relatively featherweight by comparison, LOL.
Can you do me a huge favor? Can you try putting a magnet on the surface of the ramp itself and tell me if it sticks? I'm starting to wonder if mine are actually just steel ramps in longer form (i.e. they sent me the wrong set). I'm pretty good at estimating weights from 20+ years of consistent time in the gym - I think these may be more like 45-50 lbs. And unfortunately, I've not yet found a good alternative to replace them - Race Ramps sets are all too short.
The specs sheet says 5.5", but mine is measuring nearly 6.5" post-install. Haven't yet diagnosed the cause of the variance. There are no shims and it's bolted directly to the floor; lift looks to be fully suppressed, so not sure if they fudged the numbers or something else. I didn't do the P9 because I was concerned about the 7" lift height (and otherwise larger dimensions) - since it's coming in nearly 1" above spec, it's probably good I didn't go up in size, as 8" would be problematic. As is, I need ~63"+ ramp to get the GT3 on front-first - those are hard to come by; at an 8" elevation, I would need well over 80" - good luck finding that! I'm content to back onto the lift - far easier way to line up the tires on the runways.Can you do me a huge favor? Can you try putting a magnet on the surface of the ramp itself and tell me if it sticks? I'm starting to wonder if mine are actually just steel ramps in longer form (i.e. they sent me the wrong set). I'm pretty good at estimating weights from 20+ years of consistent time in the gym - I think these may be more like 45-50 lbs. And unfortunately, I've not yet found a good alternative to replace them - Race Ramps sets are all too short.
Race Ramps can custom make ramps to your measurements. Nominal cost increase.
I have a Mohawk 2-post service lift but am looking to add two more storage lifts like the Bendpak (for my old GTOs) and an Autostacker or single column lift for the P-cars
I’m building a house and was discussing the garage ceiling options with the architect- what is the best height for the ceiling to be able to comfortably stack up 2 cars? Current height he has is around 8 feet.
01-20-2020 | 06:49 PM
