. Clarification, every 2 years or 12,000 miles. My 991.2 GT 3 has 2000 miles so that’s why he recommended it. He said they can get stuck with time. He shared the Porsche recommendation to me.

 

Ya. But he's still trying to rip you off. There are very very easy to replace yourself as per the guide in this thread. With buying all the tools and Plugs....it cost me like 250 to do myself. Dealers want way to much on something they do in like 30-45 mins.

 

Thanks this thread was super helpful. Changing the plugs on GT3 was pretty fiddly but with the correct tools (nothing bespoke) dead easy. A car lift wound have been nice. I had to make do with these ramps. Everything is no more than finger tight so no strength needed. Car was cold too so I’m sure that helped when removing items deep in the block!
I love this community.

 

Ok... I've just read all 13 pages of this... but I'm not entirely clear on one detail. Do you need to remove the undercar tray or the rear bumper to do this or are they accessible from the sides without removing anything else?
Also... people are talking about how great the Hazet 4766-2 socket is. Now... I know I've got a few spark plug sockets in various socket sets that I've bought over the years. Without going and checking... can I pretty much guarantee none of them are a 14mm? Like... is this an oddball size people don't normally deal with?

Thanks for all the info here from everyone that contributed!

 

You do not need to remove any undercarriage covers or rear bumper. The Hazet socket would be nice but not required. I never used one and have done many spark plug changes.

 

No need to remove rear bumper unless you’re replacing air filters as well. If just plugs, only need to remove bottom tray.

The Hazet tool has a rubber piece at the end that grips the spark plug tip for ease of removal. Highly recommended.

 

Easiest access is with rear wheels removed (then no need to pull tray).

Hazel tool actually grips the plug with little spring steel fingers - works really well.

 

Sorry to beat a dead horse, but just wanted to confirm changing plugs is possible on a quickjack and bottom tray removed only (no rear wheels removed)? Will there be enough room to use a torque wrench? Thanks for your help.

 

Correct no need to remove rear wheels, it'll be tight but easy enough.

 

Great write up! Thx for sharing !

 

For first time, I really recommend removing rear wheels for a very nice view of everything, if nothing else. Rear wheels are so easy to R&R (the parking brake means you can do it alone easily without a partner like the front wheels). Its worth the extra 10 minutes for the wheels.

 

I agree I can't imagine doing this job without taking the wheels off.

 

Change my plugs for the first time today at 10k miles and the plugs looked pretty good. I just wanted to thank everyone that contributed to this thread and made this a reasonable DIY job. Thanks to everyone's input I was able to knock this out with zero issues or struggles. I left the wheels and undertray on and accomplished it with just the rear end up on ramps in my garage. It really made the job easy since this thread provided all the required tools, instructions, and torque. Removing the 10mm bolt which allows you to push the driver side shock sensor bracket out of the way really helped me out, was able to get a torque wrench on every plug and locked them down at 24ft/lbs. Car fired right up and ran like a champ. Thanks again for everyone's help!

 

I accidentally broke the PASM/Bilstein connector locking tab and the connector no long clicks or locks. Does anyone know the part number for the connector? Thanks!

 

My next project.