When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After finding inconsistent solenoid polarity wiring and control on the 997, Cayman GTS, and Caymang GT4, I think it would be easier to just switch all of the systems over to "universal" 4-wire wiring. This basically brings all 4 solenoid wires out to the relay board so it completely independently powers the solenoid when in "quiet" mode, and simply connects the solenoid to the OEM harness when in "PSE control" mode.
I just finished converting my GT3 over to the "universal" 4-wire wiring today, and confirmed it works as expected. This should work for any solenoid-based exhaust system. The wiring is a little more complicated, but it should be more robust.
Downside is you have to run 4 wires from the solenoid back into the cabin (instead of 2). I found some nice flexible 4-conductor cable that I recommend here:
Thank you very much, Mech33! This way it is universal indeed! No need to think about proper polarity and which side is being switched by the ECM (V+ or V-) - one just need to extend all 4 wires AS IS.
This way you also get a 5V that can be used to power GoPros and etc. with only one cigarette lighter plug being used!
Thank you very much, Mech33! This way it is universal indeed! No need to think about proper polarity and which side is being switched by the ECM (V+ or V-) - one just need to extend all 4 wires AS IS.
This way you also get a 5V that can be used to power GoPros and etc. with only one cigarette lighter plug being used!
Indeed! Thanks for the suggestion to look again at this.
Mech33 So we get to eliminate adding The Vin pin and jumper wire when going with updated "universal" design?
Building now for Laguna track 90 dB day Tuesday. 2016 991 GT3.
Bought all parts for 2-wire design, before updated universal 4-wire came out.
Thank you and ortho jo and all others contributing for all of this.
Hopefully avoid the dreaded meatball sound flag next outing.
Turnaway pipes next!
I noticed a little antenna connector on the GPS board. Have you checked how good the signal is around the track? Curious if it would help at all with accuracy or anything.
I finally have mine assembled, but not in the car yet. Hoping to have it all ready and some downpipes before a track day next week.
Mech33 So we get to eliminate adding The Vin pin and jumper wire when going with updated "universal" design?
Building now for Laguna track 90 dB day Tuesday. 2016 991 GT3.
Bought all parts for 2-wire design, before updated universal 4-wire came out.
Thank you and ortho jo and all others contributing for all of this.
Hopefully avoid the dreaded meatball sound flag next outing.
Turnaway pipes next!
Correct. Sorry I missed this thread getting bumped!
I noticed a little antenna connector on the GPS board. Have you checked how good the signal is around the track? Curious if it would help at all with accuracy or anything.
I finally have mine assembled, but not in the car yet. Hoping to have it all ready and some downpipes before a track day next week.
I originally intended to use an external GPS antenna (you need an adapter to get down to the size for the board), but the built-in antenna has been just fine on track so I deemed it not worth the trouble for even more wires and things.
Main advantage would be building the box into some hidden area of the car, and then just routing the antenna out somewhere... feel free to experiment.
Have others found the crimp connectors lacking in durability? When I was putting mine in last week, the other end got snagged a little and I got just enough tension on it to pull out one of the wires. I was out of the male ends, since went through all of them getting the hang for crimping them.
I think the one that came out was one of the first ones I did, since got the hang of it after that. But thinking of trying to apply a little bit of solder and some hot glue as well just to make it a little tougher.
Oh, and the "reach your right hand this way and left hand that way" is understatement. That thing is a PITA.
Have others found the crimp connectors lacking in durability? When I was putting mine in last week, the other end got snagged a little and I got just enough tension on it to pull out one of the wires. I was out of the male ends, since went through all of them getting the hang for crimping them.
I think the one that came out was one of the first ones I did, since got the hang of it after that. But thinking of trying to apply a little bit of solder and some hot glue as well just to make it a little tougher.
Oh, and the "reach your right hand this way and left hand that way" is understatement. That thing is a PITA.
I never trust the crimps alone, so I use solder when I make the wire connections by hand. But lately I've resorted to buying some of the harnesses pre-made from some of the higher quality vendors on Amazon (like the one I posted for the 4-wire below). Those seem pretty robust. Here are the 2-wire versions:
I got the premade waterproof connectors, but the solenoid connection was the one that came apart on me. Rebuilt it stronger and with less slack so it wouldn't get snagged on anything. Also put solder on the wire connection and some hot glue by the wire insulation.
Probably going to look at making a universal connector too.
One tip for getting a connector off the solenoid... I took the tail lights out, since they were just sitting there loose anyway. But saw there is a decent gap that goes straight towards the solenoid connector. So I used a long flathead screw driver to press in the bar on the connector and my left hand to then pull it off.
04-04-2016, 01:58 AM
At least I get to make "had to lift" excuses about my laps.