RobertR1

Flyin Joe! Wish I'd ran that config more than once before moving. Such a fun track. The additioanl curbing and paving of the new part of the track was a good idea. The original had too many places to drop 2 tires.

orthojoe

Thanks, man. The additional curbing does help with the flow. You moved. That would explain why the fast vettes has disappeared lately!

Oldmxnut

Gents, might be wrong thread, but given the number of guys tracking on this one, thought I would ask. In the line for a .2GT3. Ideally manual, but intend to track / few different driver days etc, maybe 3-5 times a year. Would say I like to push the limits so wouldn't be easy days. Wheels satin Alu if I get PTS and black if end up going with GT silver... so question: PCCB or steel ? Appreciating the higher replacement cost of PCCB, would it still be reasonable to track this amount without needing to be on steel and have to seriously consider replacement cost. What is the performance and/or durability like compared between the two in real life. ? Experiences ? Thoughts / comments appreciated.

Update, just found one of the other threads which has a lot of information on topic. Will go and digest that, but any comments on above specific circumstance appreciated

orthojoe

LOTS of strong opinions on this, but here is what I know:

1) Rotors last a long time regardless if you opt for iron or PCCB. At 4 times a year, you will run out of warranty long before you run out of either type of rotor
2) Unless you can feel the unsprung weight difference of a brand new tire over a worn tire, there is no performance benefit with PCCB

MaxLTV

Steel is good enough. PCCB is better because there is no dust and lower weight. It's not better enough to justify the price difference unless money does not matter. With 3-5 hard track days a year, PCCB should last 6-8 years if not more, so replacement will probably not be your problem anymore. Also, if replacing PCCB rotors with steel ones, you still retain better heat capacity of rotors and calipers (not that you are likely to need it) but lose the weight advantage.

I would suggest a decision matrix (one way to overthink it):

1. If the GT3 is a significant cost, go with iron regardless of the main use being track or street- good enough for sure
2. If GT3 is not a significant cost, but money still is not unlimited, go with iron for primarily track (or PCCB and replace with iron rotors) use and PCCB for primarily street use.
3. If money is not a concern at all at this level, go with PCCB regardless of use.

usctrojanGT3

For greater wheel options and brake pads selection, go steel rotors. I'm going to get 19 inch wheels on my GT3.

Yargk

The BBI uprights are cool. Can you tell from data if you are taking some of the sweepers noticeably faster or if you are getting better speeds at the end of the straight (higher wing might have less drag too)?

Oldmxnut

Thanks gents. PPCB's are a $21.5K option here (plus not insignificant taxes on top) so its not a cheap consideration and Im not good enough to pick the weight difference I would imagine on track. But its first new GT car for me so definitely overthinking it and leaning to over capitalising on it with options. So given no material performance difference and no material extra operating cost then what your saying, it will simply come down to if you want to pay $21.5K for the perceived fancy go fast option. ...

orthojoe

Bingo!!

chaosoul

What is this GT3 to significant cost formula?


If money is not a concern at all, buy two GT3

Oldmxnut

On the question of when to go racing... Its there a suitable porsche customer racing program in the states ? Audi here run an Audi Customer racing program for the Australian GT series which is very well regarded and not beyond reach. Buy the car and technically you could simply just turn up to race on the sunday with the level of support they provide. Im not familiar with all the details but a few years back when I had more Audi's then porsches it was considered a very economical way to play with race toys as they support several cars, spread the cost and subsidize.. Some fellow Aus members may know more.

tgibrit

Hello Joe, I have followed your thread with great interest. Being relatively new to DE, intermediate groups, I have left my GT3 stock and for the first two seasons my tire wear was mostly flat across the surface of the tire and even L to R. But after my last weekend at NJMP Thunderbolt I have severe wear on my LF that I have not seen previously. I understand alignment is a dependent on the driver and track but I would appreciate any advise you might have for me on where to start my experimentation to find the best set up for me?

robgts

If you ever plan on placing your car on a trailer and changing wheels/tires at the track, I would highly recommend the steel option. The ceramic rotors are VERY fragile laterally and can crack and chip if you do not place the wheel perfectly on the center lock. Dealerships use a center lock guide tool to assist and prevent this. They are sold on ebay. For the price of the PCCB option ($9210) you could buy two sets of 19" rims and 4 sets of racing slicks! Or an enclosed trailer! IMO...not the best use of funds...at least for me.

orthojoe

That wear looks ok to me. Is the track clockwise? That would probably be the reason the right side is wearing more. I will swap my wheels side to side after every track day to account for this.

tgibrit

thanks Joe, the track is clockwise. knowing this wear pattern is to be expected and normal is good to know.