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Starting 991 GT3 in Winter

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Old 01-11-2015 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by doubleurx
I use the Ctek but through the direct connect to the battery. I leave the front hood just slightly open. I've never been a fan of closing the seals on the cables long term.

I also start the car every few weeks and bring it up to temp. Today may be warm enough though for a little spin!
The C-Tek power cord fits between the front door edge and fender without any crimping whatsoever. So, I always used the lighter and closed the windows. At least it did on the 997.2.
Old 01-11-2015 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 911dev
The C-Tek power cord fits between the front door edge and fender without any crimping whatsoever. So, I always used the lighter and closed the windows.
Sorry, my concern is deformation of the seal, not the cable. I'm sure that way is fine. Through the hood works better for where my cars are parked, minimizing the length of cables in the garage.
Old 01-11-2015 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by doubleurx
Sorry, my concern is deformation of the seal, not the cable. I'm sure that way is fine. Through the hood works better for where my cars are parked, minimizing the length of cables in the garage.
Yes, agreed. I use to store my cars in Upstate NY winters. Neither the seal not the cord would be deformed. As you said, either way works.
Old 01-11-2015 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 911dev
Agreed. Although, I always used a trickle charger, stabilized and filled the tank, changed the oil, filled tires to 58 psi and parked on carpeted runners, I'd still start the engine every few weeks, about once a month and let it idle until the temps were up. The old rule was 20 seconds or 20 minutes, the latter helping to rid some condensation. I'd also move the car about a foot or so with each start up. If my driveway was free of ice and salt, I'd back out of the garage repeatedly and apply some brake pressure to clear the rotors. I used to think less cold starts were better, however, after more research and talking to some Porsche techs, I believe lubing the cylinders, heads, seals, etc. is a better choice. Now I live in warm climate so it's moot.
This is the correct procedure. The oil change in the spring is also important. When the car is started in cold temperature, the fuel injection actually injects more fuel to start. This fuel gets into the oil past the pistons. That is why it is important
Old 01-11-2015 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by H82BL8
This is the correct procedure. The oil change in the spring is also important. When the car is started in cold temperature, the fuel injection actually injects more fuel to start. This fuel gets into the oil past the pistons. That is why it is important
So with your theory, you would not change the oil/filter before the winter sets in, just in the spring?
Old 01-11-2015 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bronson7
So with your theory, you would not change the oil/filter before the winter sets in, just in the spring?
Store the car with clean oil. Don't start it till spring.

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Old 01-11-2015 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bronson7
So with your theory, you would not change the oil/filter before the winter sets in, just in the spring?
Change oil prior to parking.
Change oil spring.
Old 01-11-2015 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by LexVan
Yes. Easy enough to do. 2.5 ounces per gallon of fuel. My cars sit from mid October till mid March/April. Depending when the salts gone.

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If memory serves is 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons of fuel, but it's on the bottle.
Old 01-11-2015 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Jpacione
If memory serves is 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons of fuel, but it's on the bottle.
Correct. Thanks!!

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Old 01-11-2015 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bronson7
So with your theory, you would not change the oil/filter before the winter sets in, just in the spring?
If you had to choose one, change before storage. Ideally, you'd do both. If DIY it won't be too expensive. People can argue it is not necessary. Necessity has nothing to do with it.
Old 01-11-2015 | 05:19 PM
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Fall oil change is more important. Filter change not required.
Old 01-11-2015 | 05:35 PM
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Thanks gentlemen for your tips. I've done it both ways, change oil/filter in the fall or spring, but never both over the last 15 years.
Old 01-11-2015 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bronson7
Thanks gentlemen for your tips. I've done it both ways, change oil/filter in the fall or spring, but never both over the last 15 years.
Hey Bronson
PM me your delivery checklist when you are done. I would like to use it as our official checklist!
Old 01-11-2015 | 06:01 PM
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So to summarize:

- Start the car periodically
- Let the car sit until spring
- change the oil before parking
- change the oil after parking
- stabilize the fuel
- high pressure in the tires

Honestly - just do what you feel you need to do. Way too much conflicting information.
Old 01-11-2015 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mwar99
So to summarize:

- Start the car periodically
- Let the car sit until spring
- change the oil before parking
- change the oil after parking
- stabilize the fuel
- high pressure in the tires

Honestly - just do what you feel you need to do. Way too much conflicting information.
you forgot
battery tender/charger


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