Anyone installed clear side markers yet?
05-06-2014, 06:55 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
No. My main Porsche dealer confirmed it would not. Im my country a warranty can only be voided by a manufacturer if its proven the warranty claim was the result of fitting after-market parts. Its a legislation to protect the consumer from spurious deliquent activity by manufacturers in supporting their product and is part of the "Consumer Guarantees Act". Id be very surprised if a manufacturer in the USA could legally contract out of their obligations due to an after-market improvement that had no bearing of the warranty claim at hand but you would have a far better understand of this than I! If this were the case then fitting of almost any 3rd party accessory cosmetic aural or otherwise could be detrimental to the warranty?
05-06-2014, 07:08 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Mark, be careful. Affecting or redirecting the exhaust can impact my parts of the engine. Like your country, in the US to decline a warranty claim there must be a causal connection between the failure and the after market "improvement". A manufacturer has the burden to prove the connection but since they know the car usually it isn't very difficult to find one.
05-06-2014, 07:48 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Thanks Nick. Point noted. I did speak with the tech here about this. The centre muffler has no valves or O2 sensors it's primary function is noise emissions. Generally speaking an engine will go pop for one of three reasons. Fuelling or timing/ignition event or mechanical failure (design fault, over rev, rod bolt ha ha etc). The centre muffler bypass does not influence any of these three so cannot be realistically attributed to an an engine failure. Guys have been fitting these to new GT3s down here for years. It doesn't touch the side mufflers or headers. I'm fairly confident there will be no issues.
I'll be honest and say after this fiasco I would imagine PAG will not hesitate to replace any engine from their generous supply of warranty spares if an engine should display any unusual issues outside of general wear and tear tolerances. I shouldn't imagine there will be much appetite for further negative global publicity with this engine.
PAG will also surely be aware that many of us that have endured through this having a car in the garage missing events will not hesitate to drive these cars hard once back on the road and track in order to make up for lost time. I suspect they have anticipated motoring press and hardcore track owners will "try to break" these engines to determine if they really are now as reliable as the old mezger and as such PAG has been at pains to test the units beyond specification subsequent to identifying the fix....
Lots of unknowns but I'm not living my life schakled and especially not with regards to my new GT3. The car was 100% solid being thrashed for a few thousand miles around Europe and I expect no less of it on the tracks and roads of New Zealand and Australia as we use it to live out our dream!
I'll be honest and say after this fiasco I would imagine PAG will not hesitate to replace any engine from their generous supply of warranty spares if an engine should display any unusual issues outside of general wear and tear tolerances. I shouldn't imagine there will be much appetite for further negative global publicity with this engine.
PAG will also surely be aware that many of us that have endured through this having a car in the garage missing events will not hesitate to drive these cars hard once back on the road and track in order to make up for lost time. I suspect they have anticipated motoring press and hardcore track owners will "try to break" these engines to determine if they really are now as reliable as the old mezger and as such PAG has been at pains to test the units beyond specification subsequent to identifying the fix....
Lots of unknowns but I'm not living my life schakled and especially not with regards to my new GT3. The car was 100% solid being thrashed for a few thousand miles around Europe and I expect no less of it on the tracks and roads of New Zealand and Australia as we use it to live out our dream!
05-06-2014, 08:33 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Thanks Nick. Point noted. I did speak with the tech here about this. The centre muffler has no valves or O2 sensors it's primary function is noise emissions. Generally speaking an engine will go pop for one of three reasons. Fuelling or timing/ignition event or mechanical failure (design fault, over rev, rod bolt ha ha etc). The centre muffler bypass does not influence any of these three so cannot be realistically attributed to an an engine failure. Guys have been fitting these to new GT3s down here for years. It doesn't touch the side mufflers or headers. I'm fairly confident there will be no issues.
I'll be honest and say after this fiasco I would imagine PAG will not hesitate to replace any engine from their generous supply of warranty spares if an engine should display any unusual issues outside of general wear and tear tolerances. I shouldn't imagine there will be much appetite for further negative global publicity with this engine.
PAG will also surely be aware that many of us that have endured through this having a car in the garage missing events will not hesitate to drive these cars hard once back on the road and track in order to make up for lost time. I suspect they have anticipated motoring press and hardcore track owners will "try to break" these engines to determine if they really are now as reliable as the old mezger and as such PAG has been at pains to test the units beyond specification subsequent to identifying the fix....
Lots of unknowns but I'm not living my life schakled and especially not with regards to my new GT3. The car was 100% solid being thrashed for a few thousand miles around Europe and I expect no less of it on the tracks and roads of New Zealand and Australia as we use it to live out our dream!
I'll be honest and say after this fiasco I would imagine PAG will not hesitate to replace any engine from their generous supply of warranty spares if an engine should display any unusual issues outside of general wear and tear tolerances. I shouldn't imagine there will be much appetite for further negative global publicity with this engine.
PAG will also surely be aware that many of us that have endured through this having a car in the garage missing events will not hesitate to drive these cars hard once back on the road and track in order to make up for lost time. I suspect they have anticipated motoring press and hardcore track owners will "try to break" these engines to determine if they really are now as reliable as the old mezger and as such PAG has been at pains to test the units beyond specification subsequent to identifying the fix....
Lots of unknowns but I'm not living my life schakled and especially not with regards to my new GT3. The car was 100% solid being thrashed for a few thousand miles around Europe and I expect no less of it on the tracks and roads of New Zealand and Australia as we use it to live out our dream!
05-06-2014, 10:01 PM
#35
Race Director
I also spoke to my Dealer about the Bypass for potential warranty concerns. They confirmed that it would not be an issue and it would be covered. They said that the bypass would actually help the engine breathe a little better; but I am not an expert on this. I had a 2007 997.2 Turbo that I put a complete FVD sport exhaust system and that was also covered and it worked wonders for the Turbo. Made it sound like the older air cooled Porsches of the past plus it was also functional. I understand the Bypass is just for the sound and I sat in a Member's GT3 here and had a chance to witness the Bypass and it is a "must have"
05-06-2014, 10:12 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
Jimmy if your car is white we are going to have twinnies by the time we get these back on the road!
Ok. Except mine has the steering wheel on the "wrong side" LOL!
Ok. Except mine has the steering wheel on the "wrong side" LOL!
05-06-2014, 11:19 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Will do but suspect you may be before me. Do you know if the finish of both the factory badge and the 997 Badge are the same or will the 997 one need to be painted a matt black? I have no idea as I dont live in the same country as my car!
06-13-2014, 11:19 PM
#41
Advanced
Anyone done this yet and have any tips on the install? I watched a vid on the 991 forum and it looks like the marker just slides easily to the rear and pulls away from the fender but my markers don't seem to want to move that easily. Maybe it's the difference between the LED markers on the GT3 and the standard incandescent ones on the 991. Or maybe it's my technique. On my 997.2 there was a slot to insert a screwdriver in the fender liner and release the catch but no such thing exists on the GT3.
I don't have the new markers yet; maybe if I did it would be apparent how they go on. Anyway was just practicing to see if I could remove the old ones but didn't want to force anything. Suggestions?
I don't have the new markers yet; maybe if I did it would be apparent how they go on. Anyway was just practicing to see if I could remove the old ones but didn't want to force anything. Suggestions?
06-14-2014, 12:24 AM
#43
Race Director
Thread Starter
Well, Rallye, at least you kept a small part of the GT3 you originally ordered!
06-14-2014, 01:00 AM
#44
Advanced
11-10-2014, 02:39 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
MaxLTV: thanks for the instructions on the side marker replacement. I did it this weekend and it took me 15-20 mins. I was terrified of pulling out the headlights. I did it on the driver's side light, but opted to just wiggle the passenger side light out instead.
Here are a couple additional tips for folks in addition to what MaxLTV posted below:
1. You "can" remove the headlights like he says, but it's not super easy to get them back in and resecure them. I would recommend simply wiggling and applying enough pressure to rip out the current LEDs as is shown on Suncoast Parts' youtube video.
2. When you pull on them, the only thing you risk breaking is the thin metal spring of the old light that's going to be discarded
3. If you do go the route of removing the headlight, the spring you're looking for is a thin metal tab on the end of the light that pushes in easily. Look at the spring on the new light -- that's what you're trying to press in.
Looks so much better now!
_______
MaxLTV's post
1. Open the frunk and take out the micro-toolbox on the drivers side. In that toolbox find a long black box with scredriver and other tools. There is a special long aluminium stick for removing headlight there.
2. Take that headlight tool and stick in into the hole that was previously covered by the small tool box. There are two holes there - one covered by horizontal rubber plug and one by vertical. Use the one covered by the vertical plug, the lower one.
3. Twist the tool slightly, and the headlight will move forward. Pull it out more by hand, but no need to remove it completely.
4. You will see the back side of the side marker. Now push the spring on the marker with your finger, and it will pop out (marker, not finger ideally )
5. Disconnect wires.
Now repeat in the opposite order to install the new marker. There is no need to use headlight removal tool to reinstall the headlight - it pops in.
DONE. 5 minutes both sides. No need to push, tug, risk breaking anything. Pictures attached below.
Here are a couple additional tips for folks in addition to what MaxLTV posted below:
1. You "can" remove the headlights like he says, but it's not super easy to get them back in and resecure them. I would recommend simply wiggling and applying enough pressure to rip out the current LEDs as is shown on Suncoast Parts' youtube video.
2. When you pull on them, the only thing you risk breaking is the thin metal spring of the old light that's going to be discarded
3. If you do go the route of removing the headlight, the spring you're looking for is a thin metal tab on the end of the light that pushes in easily. Look at the spring on the new light -- that's what you're trying to press in.
Looks so much better now!
_______
MaxLTV's post
1. Open the frunk and take out the micro-toolbox on the drivers side. In that toolbox find a long black box with scredriver and other tools. There is a special long aluminium stick for removing headlight there.
2. Take that headlight tool and stick in into the hole that was previously covered by the small tool box. There are two holes there - one covered by horizontal rubber plug and one by vertical. Use the one covered by the vertical plug, the lower one.
3. Twist the tool slightly, and the headlight will move forward. Pull it out more by hand, but no need to remove it completely.
4. You will see the back side of the side marker. Now push the spring on the marker with your finger, and it will pop out (marker, not finger ideally )
5. Disconnect wires.
Now repeat in the opposite order to install the new marker. There is no need to use headlight removal tool to reinstall the headlight - it pops in.
DONE. 5 minutes both sides. No need to push, tug, risk breaking anything. Pictures attached below.