Radar detector install (V1) in 991 GT3
07-25-2016, 12:07 AM
#46
Just in case you don't want to tap into the overhead console or fuse box I thought I'd throw in that the power plug in the glove box is a switched plug. Doesn't turn off immediately but will turn off 5-10 minutes after car is shut off. I just ran my v1 wire into the glovebox and plug it in there with the cigarette lighter adaptor.
07-25-2016, 10:41 AM
#47
Burning Brakes
Heres the link for the low profile extension.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Pro.../dp/B00M7MPBSU
07-25-2016, 02:51 PM
#48
Three Wheelin'
^ what a fantastic idea -
Regarding Savy - it states on their website that it does draw a small current when plugged into OBD port - what are your thoughts? Just leave it plugged in?
I like the idea of Savvy - can mute the v1 under certain set speed.. also provides power to the unit.
Regarding Savy - it states on their website that it does draw a small current when plugged into OBD port - what are your thoughts? Just leave it plugged in?
I like the idea of Savvy - can mute the v1 under certain set speed.. also provides power to the unit.
07-25-2016, 03:04 PM
#49
^ what a fantastic idea -
Regarding Savy - it states on their website that it does draw a small current when plugged into OBD port - what are your thoughts? Just leave it plugged in?
I like the idea of Savvy - can mute the v1 under certain set speed.. also provides power to the unit.
Regarding Savy - it states on their website that it does draw a small current when plugged into OBD port - what are your thoughts? Just leave it plugged in?
I like the idea of Savvy - can mute the v1 under certain set speed.. also provides power to the unit.
Instead, I run V1connection LE with StealthAssist iOS App for the V1. With StealthAssist, you can mute the V1 at the set speed and further customize the V1. This makes a V1 a very powerful tool. Plus, you can black out the V1 lights at nighttime and only use your phone to avoid distractions & being noticed.
07-25-2016, 03:44 PM
#50
Race Director
Thread Starter
I'm curious as to how the speed set feature works for muting the V1 and how useful it is. Is it easy to set on the fly? For example, if you set the threshold for 75 on a 70 mph freeway, what happens when you enter a 35mph zone through a town? Maybe I don't understand what setting a mute speed is all about.....
07-25-2016, 04:06 PM
#51
I'm curious as to how the speed set feature works for muting the V1 and how useful it is. Is it easy to set on the fly? For example, if you set the threshold for 75 on a 70 mph freeway, what happens when you enter a 35mph zone through a town? Maybe I don't understand what setting a mute speed is all about.....
Instead of SAVVY, I use V1connection LE with StealthAssist iOS app which you can change the speed threshold on the fly.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/stea...792567084?mt=8
07-25-2016, 04:16 PM
#52
Race Director
Thread Starter
That isn't the purpose of SAVVY. The V1 is an excellent radar with very long range capabilities. However, it's very chatty when driving around town (it picks up almost any radar, even automatic doors). When you set let's say 40mph, it will mute the V1 until you drive past 40mph. So it won't "beep" you to death when you're at a stop light or cruising around town.
Instead of SAVVY, I use V1connection LE with StealthAssist iOS app which you can change the speed threshold on the fly.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/stea...792567084?mt=8
Instead of SAVVY, I use V1connection LE with StealthAssist iOS app which you can change the speed threshold on the fly.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/stea...792567084?mt=8
05-15-2018, 01:15 AM
#53
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2018
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Don't want to break it...
Nice work. I chose not to use mirror tap as I will run the BT device with my V1 as well. Tapping the fuse is actually just as easy, maybe 10min longer. May I suggest cleaning up your wire? 
Pop out panel labeled #1, then #2. The OEM mirror bezel has a hole, maybe enough for a wire to run through. I didn't have to drill a hole for the wire that came with the V1. It's much cleaner and looks OEM.
Pop out panel labeled #1, then #2. The OEM mirror bezel has a hole, maybe enough for a wire to run through. I didn't have to drill a hole for the wire that came with the V1. It's much cleaner and looks OEM.
05-15-2018, 04:53 PM
#54
LOL Mike.That's great. Couple yrs ago while heading out of Tahoe on my guards red C4S I saw a truck coming the opposite direction that appeared to be a cop, looked at my valentine 1 and no beeps. I was doing approximately 10 to 15 over the limit. He made a u turn and gave a me a ticket. He said I was approximately going 10 over the speed the limit. When he came behind me and turned his radar I had slowed down already to speed limit and V-1 was beeping but he gave the ticket anyway. Its just luck. When its time they will write me again.
12-08-2020, 09:55 AM
#55
Rennlist Member
Hello Mike,
I installed the OEM V1 wiring set-up and used your instructions to get me started.
I was able to partially pull off the A-piller trim and get the wiring behind it.
After that, I did not find the need or requirement to pull off the door seal - I was able to feed the flat V1 wire behind it without too much trouble.
The most challenging part was dealing with the removal and replacement of the fuse box carpeted trim piece. There are some "unexpected" anchoring points and plastic studs and female counterparts that can be broken. I broke a male...
Anyway, I may be a bit hamfisted. However, I was surprised at the number of anchoring points for the carpeted trim piece.
I used the fuse tap method and had to bend the tap 90 degrees for clearance.
Finally, I installed a Blend Mount and await the return of my V1 after firmware upgrade to filter out all that K band proximity and traffic sensor junk.
I installed the OEM V1 wiring set-up and used your instructions to get me started.
I was able to partially pull off the A-piller trim and get the wiring behind it.
After that, I did not find the need or requirement to pull off the door seal - I was able to feed the flat V1 wire behind it without too much trouble.
The most challenging part was dealing with the removal and replacement of the fuse box carpeted trim piece. There are some "unexpected" anchoring points and plastic studs and female counterparts that can be broken. I broke a male...
Anyway, I may be a bit hamfisted. However, I was surprised at the number of anchoring points for the carpeted trim piece.
I used the fuse tap method and had to bend the tap 90 degrees for clearance.
Finally, I installed a Blend Mount and await the return of my V1 after firmware upgrade to filter out all that K band proximity and traffic sensor junk.
12-09-2020, 04:46 AM
#56
Rennlist Member
Thought I'd update following my installation today. I posted this over in the 991 forum as well.
Here are a few takeaways and lessons from me.
The Blendmount & hardwire kit, and fuse tap are the way to go. And trim tools. I really like how solid the Blendmount kit is too. No play or wiggle whatsoever.
I don’t like or feel comfortable with pulling panels or trim. Something always goes wrong. In this case, two little metal clippy things came dislodged when I pulled the interior door sill. For the life of me, I could not figure out how to replace them, so I ended up leaving them out when putting back together. No worries because even without them, the sill trim panel clicked back into place securely with the other three attachment points which included other clip connections and Velcro piece in the middle. I feel that isn’t in any way compromised.
Also, getting the rubber moulding to overlap the trim piece after installation was no easy task as it fits together very tightly. I should back up and mention that I did not remove any rubber moulding for this installation. Thankfully I had an assortment of trim pulling tools which aided me in carefully working the rubber back over the plastic. Makes me realize the importance of periodically cleaning & maintaining these rubber trim pieces with the proper product. I could easily see a risk of cutting/tearing the rubber by accident if not super careful and have the right tools..
The other issue I encountered is that I get the sense that the tucked away wires between top of windshield and trim, from the top right corner all the way to the rear view mirror, does not seem to want to snuggly hold the cables. I was able to easily press the cable behind these trim pieces with the dull end of a trim tool, but I sense they’re going to pop out even though I tucked them in well. They just seemed loose and floppy behind the trim. Time will tell. I was thinking of placing a small piece of black tape and wedge it into the corner hoping it will catch /adhere to the wires and keep them in place
In all took me about an hour as I was being super careful and meticulous. Could have done a sloppy job much quicker. I rate it one-beer to complete and level two due to panel trim work and wiring connections.
Here are a few takeaways and lessons from me.
The Blendmount & hardwire kit, and fuse tap are the way to go. And trim tools. I really like how solid the Blendmount kit is too. No play or wiggle whatsoever.
I don’t like or feel comfortable with pulling panels or trim. Something always goes wrong. In this case, two little metal clippy things came dislodged when I pulled the interior door sill. For the life of me, I could not figure out how to replace them, so I ended up leaving them out when putting back together. No worries because even without them, the sill trim panel clicked back into place securely with the other three attachment points which included other clip connections and Velcro piece in the middle. I feel that isn’t in any way compromised.
Also, getting the rubber moulding to overlap the trim piece after installation was no easy task as it fits together very tightly. I should back up and mention that I did not remove any rubber moulding for this installation. Thankfully I had an assortment of trim pulling tools which aided me in carefully working the rubber back over the plastic. Makes me realize the importance of periodically cleaning & maintaining these rubber trim pieces with the proper product. I could easily see a risk of cutting/tearing the rubber by accident if not super careful and have the right tools..
The other issue I encountered is that I get the sense that the tucked away wires between top of windshield and trim, from the top right corner all the way to the rear view mirror, does not seem to want to snuggly hold the cables. I was able to easily press the cable behind these trim pieces with the dull end of a trim tool, but I sense they’re going to pop out even though I tucked them in well. They just seemed loose and floppy behind the trim. Time will tell. I was thinking of placing a small piece of black tape and wedge it into the corner hoping it will catch /adhere to the wires and keep them in place
In all took me about an hour as I was being super careful and meticulous. Could have done a sloppy job much quicker. I rate it one-beer to complete and level two due to panel trim work and wiring connections.
12-10-2020, 12:10 PM
#57
Rennlist Member
So out of nowhere today, two days after successfully installing the hardware, it stopped functioning. The radar detector works if I plug it directly into a cigarette lighter outlet but for some reason no power when connected to the hardwire tap. I checked the fuse at the panel and it’s still good. I’m concerned that the 2a fuse on the hardwire may have blown but why? At this point the only way I can find out is to dismantle the panels again and dig it out since I zip tied everything into place and can’t reach it without taking apart the right foot kick panel. Has this happened to anyone else?
12-10-2020, 12:46 PM
#58
So out of nowhere today, two days after successfully installing the hardware, it stopped functioning. The radar detector works if I plug it directly into a cigarette lighter outlet but for some reason no power when connected to the hardwire tap. I checked the fuse at the panel and it’s still good. I’m concerned that the 2a fuse on the hardwire may have blown but why? At this point the only way I can find out is to dismantle the panels again and dig it out since I zip tied everything into place and can’t reach it without taking apart the right foot kick panel. Has this happened to anyone else?
Did you fuse tap into the passenger fuse box? Or did you use those crimp-type wiretaps that came with the V1? The crimp type wire taps don't always break the insulation of the wire enough and may make initial contact then easily lose contact if something shifts. Can easily figure that out by wiggling the wire you tapped into and power may go on and off. If a Fuzetap sometimes those blades don't make the best contact and go in the box and wiggle that thing around. I know V1 called for a 2A fuse but I've had a couple blow through the years so have used a 3A or a 5A fuse which stopped that problem. Just reading your post it sounds like you fuse tapped at the fuse box, so that should be easy to diagnose...if the fuse tap is well seated and its fuze is OK then you have a ground problem likely....I fuse tapped mine and my fuse tap had a blade fuse for the V1 hot wire so I cut out the other V1 fuse on my Porsche install as why run 2 fuses for this reason...
Last edited by rhk118; 12-10-2020 at 12:47 PM.
12-10-2020, 05:52 PM
#59
Rennlist Member
Did you fuse tap into the passenger fuse box? Or did you use those crimp-type wiretaps that came with the V1? The crimp type wire taps don't always break the insulation of the wire enough and may make initial contact then easily lose contact if something shifts. Can easily figure that out by wiggling the wire you tapped into and power may go on and off. If a Fuzetap sometimes those blades don't make the best contact and go in the box and wiggle that thing around. I know V1 called for a 2A fuse but I've had a couple blow through the years so have used a 3A or a 5A fuse which stopped that problem. Just reading your post it sounds like you fuse tapped at the fuse box, so that should be easy to diagnose...if the fuse tap is well seated and its fuze is OK then you have a ground problem likely....I fuse tapped mine and my fuse tap had a blade fuse for the V1 hot wire so I cut out the other V1 fuse on my Porsche install as why run 2 fuses for this reason...
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rhk118 (12-10-2020)
03-15-2021, 11:55 PM
#60
This was incredibly helpful, I did not have to remove the weather stripping, using a few trim tools to get simultaneously, I was able to jam the cable into the correct position by just loosening the A-pillar. All in all very easy install, took me about 40 minutes.