Yes I believe its there and no it doesn't disappear after "break in" period that I know of. You can still rev the car out in Drive with both paddles back so not sure its there to protect the engine full stop but maybe a preventative idea to stop someone starting up and over revving it by accident with their foot when turning around to get something from the back etc (Im sure its happened to us all!).

One thing I found very difficult to get used to was the electronic brake. I kept forgetting to push or pull it when taking it off. Luckily on the few occasions I forgot altogether it disengage automatically when in gear under acceleration. The hill hold feature I used more than once too.

I need to do a post trip report on the car both positive and negative. The electronic handbrake I see as an overall positive (like the concept that it automatically disengages) but its doing my head in learning to do it correct first time. Maybe Im just challenged! One negative would be the key. Why do we need an ugly electric key which tries hard to be a silhouette of the car. I could have thought of a much cooler design, or why not just a normal steel key like they have been using in cars since 1920/?

 

^agree on the key...fail

 

Guess I'll be breaking every rule in the book regarding break-in when I take Euro Delivery this summer and get this baby out on the autobahn!! Oh yes, I could try to restrain myself... But have enough self awareness to know: That AIN'T gonna happen!!

 

When I did ED with my M3, I spent the first few days playing in the Alps. Great way to break the car in, and makes it relatively easy to keep the RPMs low for the first 800-900 miles. BMW specified a 2k km (1,240 mile) break-in, so I took it easy for a couple more days, got the oil changed at the dealer in Budapest, and then let her rip.

 

Worse than that - when the silver paint (really thin) wears off, it looks very cheap and ugly, and it looks like that part is not replaceable. They should have just kept it black.

 

I think they should copy the McLaren key. Now that is a piece of art!

 

haha... you got the legit manual!

 

Id say youll be in good company with every other German that picks up a new 911 from the factory. The autobahn entrance is only 6 minutes away LOL!

 

Macca, that's something I forgot to mention in my review. My Cayenne has a similar electronic parking brake and when I first got it, I was doing the same thing as you are with your car. Now with the GT3, I'm used to having and using it, but still a proper pull up handbrake is more appropriate for a sports car.

 

Talking to our dealer master mechanic he says running the engine per manual (e.g 1200 RPM in 7th gear) will result in taking much longer for the rings to sit in and more oil consumption now and more oil consumption later. He says drive it hard. The car has all the protection to prevent you from damaging it.

 

This is absolutely correct. I've built race engines for many years and they go from brand new to full power immediately (and I'm talking 1200-1500rwhp engines turbo engines). My buddy has a new 14' GT3 that I posted in another thread and it got broken in today at the track. I was in it, the car is amazing. I can't wait to get mine in March.

 

The PAG mechanics in germany said same, no cold high revs, let everything warm through, not sustained high revs for the first few hundred km, and then second by the tank "spank it". Actually the mechanics said make sure its warm first and spank it from the get go but the sales guy tempered it by adding the "after the first tank" piece LOL! Going to the track on the first tank is braver than me tho!

 

Thats exactly what I will do. Of course I will let the engine completely warm up. That goes for my .2.
I never rev any of my cars hard until completely warmed up and never at high RPM for pronged period. Had them chi my oil level on my 0.2 today and after 6500 miles no oil needed. The mechanic said it shows the car was properly broken in meaning driven hard.

 

YES! I bought a brand new Z06 Vette a few years back, and I was very careful to break it in gently. Once I got beyond the break-in period, it was consuming a quart of oil every 300-400 miles. I spoke with many mechanics, including two master mechanics that I know in Germany, and they all said the same: take care the first couple of hundred miles. Then, after that, once the engine achieves operating temp, run it HARD to fully seat the rings. If you don't seat the rings, you could end up with chronic oil consumption. I was also told by a few to run normal mineral oil during the first few thousand miles, instead of synthetic oil. They said synthetic oil is "too good," and doesn't allow the rings to seat. Don't know how much validity there is to that, but it does sound logical...

 

^ heard and do the same typically. Not sure if I'd use mineral in this engine though as I assume it comes with syn. and I could assume the warranty nightmare that could ensue. I once had jiffy lube change the oil in a performance mustang at 100 miles to clear out any junk left from mfg. They looked at me like I was insane.