Awesome news.

 

Loving the car for sure (1,600 plus miles). Can't wait to get the muffler bypass (hopefully soon). I am very happy with the alignment setup and now, for the first time, the tires are wearing evenly inside and out. Still tinkering with hot tire pressure and I think F29 and R31 is going to work best but I said that about F30 and R32 as well!

I was going to lower the car but the suspension settled a bit and adding negative camber lowered it another smidgeon. My front brake ducts are heavily scraped already so I don't think I will be lowering it.

 

Sam, what's your final camber setup? Thanks for the info!

 

-3.1 front, -2.5 rears. Front sway bar at softest setting, rear at firmest.

 

And no other adjustments like toe or caster?

 

Left front toe as is, close to zero. Wouldn't dare mess with rear toe as I'm not sure there is reliable info on how that can affect RWS. When we added negative camber to the front, the car gained a ton of front caster, and it started rubbing on tight turns. Strangely, caster is not adjustable in this car. To take some of this back, my mechanic replaced the control arm bushings with the 996 GT3's (same as 997 but cheaper!!), which allowed him to adjust caster. So, I have more caster than stock but I am embarrassed to not know how much. I'll ask my mechanic next time I see him but if I recall correctly, he didn't seem so sure either.

 

Thanks Sam - this will be helpful when getting my car set up in a few weeks.

 

Question from a relative track novice. Do you believe the various adjustments like camber, toe and caster will improve the performance of the car over factory settings? I can understand the suspension fiddling but the other stuff at least to me puzzling.

 

I suspect the performance envelope of the new car is so high, that anyone but the most seasoned track veterans can leave the suspension setup as-is for a while.

I would be wary with caster adjustment, as you are now changing the car's wheelbase. ...should fall in the same category as changing front wheel offset, which Porsche explicitly advises not to do.

 

Stock setup always has some understeer dialed in by design. Adding negative camber generally improves turn in and tire wear on track.

 

Porsche set the car up for performance on a track. It is the intended purpose of the car. Why mess with it unless the factory set up eats tires unnecessarily which I cannot believe Porsche would do.

 

All Porsche cars (even GT’s) come with alignment set for street driving. The level of adjustment you need depends on how aggressively you will drive the car. For many, the factory settings will be fine (even for light track use). If you are pushing the car hard, you will definitely need more negative camber (and other adjustments) to get the most out of the car (and get even tire wear across the width of the tire).

 

Nick. This is incorrect. Porsche state clearly in the documentation that comes with the car that they set it up for an ideal compromise for both road and track (-1.30 F+R) and recommend the settings stay that way for both. It is not set up optimised for track alone - only a combination of both, that anyone who spends any time on teh track will know for certain is certainly not optimised for the best possible cornering and tyre wear. Porsche set this car up as the the best compromise for the 2-3 roles it was designed to operate across that is all....

 

Ran today for ONE half hour session. (Weather here at Sebring has been absolutely terrible. If it isn't pouring rain or wet track, then it's fog where corner workers can't see each other).

No warning lights, no limp mode and temps stayed well in zone!!

Noticed today tires felt a bit "slippery", perhaps due to higher pressure?

Keeping fingers crossed for full sessions tomorrow. Will keep you all posted.

 

Nice. Are you still on Cup 2’s or did you put Trofeo’s on? Looking forward to your report tomorrow – have fun!