Vinh Nguyen

That front cf splitter and decklid/wing for .2 looks sick

smanders

I went a similar route as jonnkycvrd. Here is my mod list for HPDE's.

• Performance Based
  • AP Racing Brake Kit from Essex with 3.12 pads - Castrol SFR Fluid
  • Apex 19" Wheels (started with 20" but tire selection sucks)
  • Elephant Racing Caster Pucks for the Front so I can run -2.5 camber
  • Track Alignment
  • CMS Half Cage and sub-belt mounts with Schroth Enduro 2x2 6-point Harnesses
  • Rennline Wind Deflectors
    • AWE ones moved the buffeting envelope from 100-120 mph but was will bad 120+ mph
    • Rennline ones did a good enough job up to 160 mph (backstraight at VIR)
• Little Things that make it more enjoyable
  • Designs By Jacob Seat Recliners
  • RSpro Harness Collars
  • Ed Guards Bolster and Headrest Covers
    • HANS scratched headrests in previous track cars
  • Lumbar Support for long days at the track - Below one fits the carbon buckets perfect
    • Amazon
      Amazon
  • GMG Center Muffler Delete with an Exhaust Valve Controller
    • So I can hear myself 😁...my helmet has Comm Earmuffs built-in
  • Hytorc Centerlock Gun as I am swapping wheels/brake pads a lot

mipcar

Pretty much same here minus the caster pucks.

On the 991.1 swift springs and tarett links. Use the fake seatbelt buckle inserts. Also take along my quickjack system for tire and brake work.

alexaqui

For those of you who switched to the AP Racing kit from Essex, how is livability with the car on the street (e.g., noise, dust, street pad options)? I just picked up a 16 GT3RS and still evaluating what I am going to do with the car. I really like the CCBs for the street .I also plan on driving my car mostly on the street as I do have a dedicated track/race car (BMW). That being said, I would love to do a few track days.

I will chime in that I've been using MCS for a long time. On my BMW I recently went from a 2 way non remote to a 3 way remote setup and while it opens up a can of worms for suspension tuning, the confidence the suspension provides once dialed in is incredible. I 100% recommend MCS after many many track days. Just keep in mind that they need a rebuild every 100 hours or so (check the MCS site). 4 ways in the rear though will require some knowledgeable people for setup advice!

mipcar

I run the Essex AP Racing on my 16 RS. One of the best investments I have made. I choose the Ferodo DS 3.12 for track and do not suffer from any extensive brake dust or grim. The PCCB's are nicely stored away on the shelf!

Absolutely no issues for the daily driving with excessive squealing or noise.

On track, just amazing feel, stopping, cooler temps, ease of use (pad swap).

I think essex tuning is running a pretty good November sale right now....

Overkill for the street, but if you start to track a great option to save the life span of the PCCB's.

Lastly, if you decide to move to 19's then one more reason to change.

alexaqui

Thanks for the feedback! I have been eying their kits for a while and have spoken to them a bit. Definitely want to get to 19s because of the tire options that open up. Not sure I can swing the brakes right after picking up this car, a 718 S, and an RS6. My wife is already asking questions

smanders

The AP Racing brakes have been amazing on track. Off track I am swapping the wheels and tires back to stock so I swap the pads as well to Ferodo DS2500's. Swapping pads is SOO quick and easy on the AP Racing calipers....yet another reason why I picked up the kit.

jonnkycvrd

I've never run my PCCB on my RS so I don't know the difference, but the AP definitely "tolerable" on the street. Maybe a touch loud loud at times and the odd squeak, but just normal "race car" sounds to me. I do notice in the cold(close to freezing) they take a bit to get some bite, so careful at the first few intersections while things warm up a touch. I believe they're a "free floating" pad, so no slide pins like regular calipers that pull that pad back once you release the brake pedal so I think sometimes you can hear/feel that slight contact at times.

alexaqui

Out of curiosity, is it possible to just change the front brakes to the AP setup and swap in steel rotors (girodisc) for the rear using the the stock CCB calipers? I wonder if 19s would work in the rear with the smaller caliper.

JRitt@essex

Thanks to all the kind words to our AP Racing users in this thread...really appreciate it. To anyone else considering our equipment as an FYI...for the entire month of November our AP Radi-CAL brake kits are discounted $2,000.

Our brake kits mimic the OEM torque output at both ends of the car, so yes, it is technically acceptable to install only our front complete kit and mate it to the OEM rear calipers and stock-sized discs. Not sure if you knew or not, but we offer OEM-sized AP Racing J Hooks in the OEM iron and PCCB sizes (which are also currently on sale for November). So there's no need to compromise on the rear discs with other brands...you can have matching AP J Hooks at both ends of the car, even if you have stock rear calipers. The biggest downside to going with PCCB-sized iron discs is weight. Our complete rear AP kit removes 18 lbs. of unsprung weight vs. the OEM iron rears, and the 380x32mm discs in our rear kit weigh about 19 lbs. Our OEM PCCB rear replacement discs weigh 24.4 lbs. So, not having the AP rear calipers adds over 10 lbs. just in disc weight, and you don't get the six or so pounds our calipers save vs. OEM calipers. You can see our full brake menu for a PCCB-equpped car here: https://www.essexparts.com/my-vehicl...%20Replacement Menu for iron-equipped cars here: https://www.essexparts.com/my-vehicl...RS/Iron%20disc

JRitt@essex

Brake squeal is primarily a function of two things...1) pad compound choice and 2) if the pads/discs are bedded-in or not. One of the great things about our system, and Ferodo pads in particular, is that you can run a milder pad like Ferodo DS2500 on the street and an aggressive race pad on the track like the DS3.12. Since our calipers make it so easy to change pads, making that swap is a piece of cake. That said, nobody enjoys changing pads, and many of our customers just leave the DS3.12 in the calipers all the time. The downside to running DS3.12 on the street is that the cold bite isn't quite as great as the DS2500, and when you run the DS3.12 cold they'll wear your discs faster than a milder pad (which is true of any racing pad). Here's an article that closely examines the three primary Ferodo pad compounds: Which Ferodo Racing Pad Compound is Right for Me?

Regarding the pads and disc contact...As you're driving the suspension is constantly compressing, the disc is moving around laterally, and the pads are being pushed slightly away from the disc. Think of the seals in the caliper as a spring or hinge attached to the side of the piston, rather than just a ring through which the piston slides. In an AP Racing competition caliper, the groove in which the seal resides isn't a square cut groove.It has angles. When the pistons slide in or out there is friction between the outer piston wall and the seal, and the seal distorts a bit as shown in the illustration below. A caliper piston sliding out to the left would distort the seal in this manner (the slashes are the seals on either side of the piston):/
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---
\

As the piston slides back in to the right, the seal does this:
\
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---
/

There is a certain amount of tension or friction that needs to be overcome before the piston actually starts moving through the seal ring. That tension/friction keeps the piston from dragging on the disc once the pistons are pushed back into the bores by the disc/suspension movement.
Thanks again for your continued support gents!

Nein11RS

@JRitt@essex what is the cost and specs of a complete kit for a 2016 GT3 RS for track use.

JRitt@essex

It depends on which front caliper you choose, and which caliper finish you choose. At our current sale prices during the month of November, our base kit that takes an 18mm thick pad and has anodized calipers would be $10,963.30. If you wanted the narrower front caliper except in ENP (nickel finish), the complete kit would be $ 11,303. If you wanted the wider front calipers that take 25mm thick pads (which only come in the nickel finish), the complete four-wheel system would be $11,643.30. Included standard in those prices are our disc burnishing service and our pad tension kits (which eliminate any pad rattling noises). With the purchase of our kit you receive your first set of Ferodo Racing pads at the subsidized price of $225-$250 depending on which front you choose, and $200 for the rear. The best part of all is that you can beat up on our kit for a few years while your OEM brakes are chillin' on your garage shelf, and then sell our kit on the used market for about 65% of what you paid for it. When it's time to sell your car you won't have to spend any money to refresh your OEM brakes only to hand them to the car's new owner, and you'll have thousands of dollars coming in from the sale of our brake kit.

JRitt@essex

Seth! How's it going? Are our AP Radi-CAL brakes still getting the job done for you?!?

Anu2g

Technically he has a 991.1 with a 991.2 Cup front bumper. But they are going to come out with the decklid/wing for the 991.2 too.