ALL the faults after battery replacement
02-19-2023, 12:25 PM
#1
ALL the faults after battery replacement
I recently replaced the factory battery on my 991.2 GT3 with an Antigravity battery (H6/Group 48 60Ah).
After about ten minutes of normal driving the electronics started going nuts... it started showing multiple faults (steering, rear-axle steering, parking brake, headlights, etc.) and the PCCM started cycling off and on.
At one point it showed a battery fault (can't remember the exact wording).
Is this something wrong with the battery or something that will "reset" itself?
Thanks in advance!
After about ten minutes of normal driving the electronics started going nuts... it started showing multiple faults (steering, rear-axle steering, parking brake, headlights, etc.) and the PCCM started cycling off and on.
At one point it showed a battery fault (can't remember the exact wording).
Is this something wrong with the battery or something that will "reset" itself?
Thanks in advance!
02-20-2023, 12:58 AM
#2
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I recently replaced the factory battery on my 991.2 GT3 with an Antigravity battery (H6/Group 48 60Ah).
After about ten minutes of normal driving the electronics started going nuts... it started showing multiple faults (steering, rear-axle steering, parking brake, headlights, etc.) and the PCCM started cycling off and on.
At one point it showed a battery fault (can't remember the exact wording).
Is this something wrong with the battery or something that will "reset" itself?
Thanks in advance!
After about ten minutes of normal driving the electronics started going nuts... it started showing multiple faults (steering, rear-axle steering, parking brake, headlights, etc.) and the PCCM started cycling off and on.
At one point it showed a battery fault (can't remember the exact wording).
Is this something wrong with the battery or something that will "reset" itself?
Thanks in advance!
- The battery should not be defective or bad. We test voltage on all the Automotive Battteries before any shipping, it should be in the range of 12.8v to 13.2v when shipped, often this is a tad low for shipping purposes since you are not supposed to ship a fully charged battery. If you have a multimeter you can do a quick test on it and verify voltage just so you can inform us what it is for data purposes. But from the point that it must have started the car if you got flags then that means its probably at the correct voltage, but potentially low since the battery have alot of power and even will start a car at low voltages.
- Also please note that when you pull out the battery that you are replacing the voltage in your car goes to zero volts during your swap out. So in many circumstances you will actually get flags when you first start the car again, and that is because the car went to zero volts when you disconnected the old battery, so even though you put a new battery in, it will still show the flags until you drive a bit and and then cycle the key.... meaning turn off the car and take the key out....then start the car again and drive again. That sort of clears out the old data and the car see's it has a battery with voltage and all is normal.
-The flags you will sometimes get for a battery swap or when a 12v fault is present are the rear-wheel steering, power steering, or low battery issues. But that is from the battery disconnection, and usually goes away with a little driving and cycling the key. But if you would please check the voltage and let us know, and if you have a charger try charging overnight IF the cycling didn't work. Also make sure the connections aren't loose.
- If any issues we will stand behind the product 100% and offer you a full refund if something isn't working, or we'll also try swapping a battery just to make sure it not just that particular battery and we'll pay shipping. With that being said, we rarely see this issue except on the first starts, or if the battery is undercharged, but again it does go away normally.
- I did all the testing of the original batteries in my 2016 GT3RS 991.1.... so I have done about 50 battery swaps in that car.... no boloney. I tried all the batteries in that Car, from 12Amp Hours to 60Amp hours just to see every possible issue. I would continually disconnect the batteries while I would try something else. So I ran into most every scenario possible. The odd thing was that literally half the time I did a swap I wouldn't get any flags, other times I did get the flags. I tried to figure out why , and I thought it was about how long I let it sit , or if I had some accesory on when I turned off the key before I did a battery swap but I found no rhyme or reason to it. So it varies...
In any event try to give us some voltages, try driving a bit and cycling the key, also try putting it on a charger.... then let us know if the flags went away, if any issues we'll try to assist in some otherways.
Emailing is best to scott@ and/or chad@antigravitybatteries.com. We may miss some posts if you post only on Renn, though we try be here as much as we can.
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1809 (02-22-2023)
02-20-2023, 09:55 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
You have to get the new battery registered to the car . Most dealers will do it for 1/2 hr rate or an Indy shop that has PIWIS or equivalent.
02-20-2023, 12:14 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
my experience:
1) you do not need to register the Ag battery with the car.
2) anytime you disconnect the battery on a 991.2 GT3 and reconnect the car will throw a litany of errors, it will clear those as they are transitory - this happened to me during a previous service at the dealership
1) you do not need to register the Ag battery with the car.
2) anytime you disconnect the battery on a 991.2 GT3 and reconnect the car will throw a litany of errors, it will clear those as they are transitory - this happened to me during a previous service at the dealership
The following users liked this post:
cscrogham (02-22-2023)
02-20-2023, 12:16 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
You can call us tomorrow, and talk to someone, but I can give you some basics here.... (sunday night here)
- The battery should not be defective or bad. We test voltage on all the Automotive Battteries before any shipping, it should be in the range of 12.8v to 13.2v when shipped, often this is a tad low for shipping purposes since you are not supposed to ship a fully charged battery. If you have a multimeter you can do a quick test on it and verify voltage just so you can inform us what it is for data purposes. But from the point that it must have started the car if you got flags then that means its probably at the correct voltage, but potentially low since the battery have alot of power and even will start a car at low voltages.
- Also please note that when you pull out the battery that you are replacing the voltage in your car goes to zero volts during your swap out. So in many circumstances you will actually get flags when you first start the car again, and that is because the car went to zero volts when you disconnected the old battery, so even though you put a new battery in, it will still show the flags until you drive a bit and and then cycle the key.... meaning turn off the car and take the key out....then start the car again and drive again. That sort of clears out the old data and the car see's it has a battery with voltage and all is normal.
-The flags you will sometimes get for a battery swap or when a 12v fault is present are the rear-wheel steering, power steering, or low battery issues. But that is from the battery disconnection, and usually goes away with a little driving and cycling the key. But if you would please check the voltage and let us know, and if you have a charger try charging overnight IF the cycling didn't work. Also make sure the connections aren't loose.
- If any issues we will stand behind the product 100% and offer you a full refund if something isn't working, or we'll also try swapping a battery just to make sure it not just that particular battery and we'll pay shipping. With that being said, we rarely see this issue except on the first starts, or if the battery is undercharged, but again it does go away normally.
- I did all the testing of the original batteries in my 2016 GT3RS 991.1.... so I have done about 50 battery swaps in that car.... no boloney. I tried all the batteries in that Car, from 12Amp Hours to 60Amp hours just to see every possible issue. I would continually disconnect the batteries while I would try something else. So I ran into most every scenario possible. The odd thing was that literally half the time I did a swap I wouldn't get any flags, other times I did get the flags. I tried to figure out why , and I thought it was about how long I let it sit , or if I had some accesory on when I turned off the key before I did a battery swap but I found no rhyme or reason to it. So it varies...
In any event try to give us some voltages, try driving a bit and cycling the key, also try putting it on a charger.... then let us know if the flags went away, if any issues we'll try to assist in some otherways.
Emailing is best to scott@ and/or chad@antigravitybatteries.com. We may miss some posts if you post only on Renn, though we try be here as much as we can.
- The battery should not be defective or bad. We test voltage on all the Automotive Battteries before any shipping, it should be in the range of 12.8v to 13.2v when shipped, often this is a tad low for shipping purposes since you are not supposed to ship a fully charged battery. If you have a multimeter you can do a quick test on it and verify voltage just so you can inform us what it is for data purposes. But from the point that it must have started the car if you got flags then that means its probably at the correct voltage, but potentially low since the battery have alot of power and even will start a car at low voltages.
- Also please note that when you pull out the battery that you are replacing the voltage in your car goes to zero volts during your swap out. So in many circumstances you will actually get flags when you first start the car again, and that is because the car went to zero volts when you disconnected the old battery, so even though you put a new battery in, it will still show the flags until you drive a bit and and then cycle the key.... meaning turn off the car and take the key out....then start the car again and drive again. That sort of clears out the old data and the car see's it has a battery with voltage and all is normal.
-The flags you will sometimes get for a battery swap or when a 12v fault is present are the rear-wheel steering, power steering, or low battery issues. But that is from the battery disconnection, and usually goes away with a little driving and cycling the key. But if you would please check the voltage and let us know, and if you have a charger try charging overnight IF the cycling didn't work. Also make sure the connections aren't loose.
- If any issues we will stand behind the product 100% and offer you a full refund if something isn't working, or we'll also try swapping a battery just to make sure it not just that particular battery and we'll pay shipping. With that being said, we rarely see this issue except on the first starts, or if the battery is undercharged, but again it does go away normally.
- I did all the testing of the original batteries in my 2016 GT3RS 991.1.... so I have done about 50 battery swaps in that car.... no boloney. I tried all the batteries in that Car, from 12Amp Hours to 60Amp hours just to see every possible issue. I would continually disconnect the batteries while I would try something else. So I ran into most every scenario possible. The odd thing was that literally half the time I did a swap I wouldn't get any flags, other times I did get the flags. I tried to figure out why , and I thought it was about how long I let it sit , or if I had some accesory on when I turned off the key before I did a battery swap but I found no rhyme or reason to it. So it varies...
In any event try to give us some voltages, try driving a bit and cycling the key, also try putting it on a charger.... then let us know if the flags went away, if any issues we'll try to assist in some otherways.
Emailing is best to scott@ and/or chad@antigravitybatteries.com. We may miss some posts if you post only on Renn, though we try be here as much as we can.
02-20-2023, 01:38 PM
#6
You can call us tomorrow, and talk to someone, but I can give you some basics here.... (sunday night here)
- The battery should not be defective or bad. We test voltage on all the Automotive Battteries before any shipping, it should be in the range of 12.8v to 13.2v when shipped, often this is a tad low for shipping purposes since you are not supposed to ship a fully charged battery. If you have a multimeter you can do a quick test on it and verify voltage just so you can inform us what it is for data purposes. But from the point that it must have started the car if you got flags then that means its probably at the correct voltage, but potentially low since the battery have alot of power and even will start a car at low voltages.
- Also please note that when you pull out the battery that you are replacing the voltage in your car goes to zero volts during your swap out. So in many circumstances you will actually get flags when you first start the car again, and that is because the car went to zero volts when you disconnected the old battery, so even though you put a new battery in, it will still show the flags until you drive a bit and and then cycle the key.... meaning turn off the car and take the key out....then start the car again and drive again. That sort of clears out the old data and the car see's it has a battery with voltage and all is normal.
-The flags you will sometimes get for a battery swap or when a 12v fault is present are the rear-wheel steering, power steering, or low battery issues. But that is from the battery disconnection, and usually goes away with a little driving and cycling the key. But if you would please check the voltage and let us know, and if you have a charger try charging overnight IF the cycling didn't work. Also make sure the connections aren't loose.
- If any issues we will stand behind the product 100% and offer you a full refund if something isn't working, or we'll also try swapping a battery just to make sure it not just that particular battery and we'll pay shipping. With that being said, we rarely see this issue except on the first starts, or if the battery is undercharged, but again it does go away normally.
- I did all the testing of the original batteries in my 2016 GT3RS 991.1.... so I have done about 50 battery swaps in that car.... no boloney. I tried all the batteries in that Car, from 12Amp Hours to 60Amp hours just to see every possible issue. I would continually disconnect the batteries while I would try something else. So I ran into most every scenario possible. The odd thing was that literally half the time I did a swap I wouldn't get any flags, other times I did get the flags. I tried to figure out why , and I thought it was about how long I let it sit , or if I had some accesory on when I turned off the key before I did a battery swap but I found no rhyme or reason to it. So it varies...
In any event try to give us some voltages, try driving a bit and cycling the key, also try putting it on a charger.... then let us know if the flags went away, if any issues we'll try to assist in some otherways.
Emailing is best to scott@ and/or chad@antigravitybatteries.com. We may miss some posts if you post only on Renn, though we try be here as much as we can.
- The battery should not be defective or bad. We test voltage on all the Automotive Battteries before any shipping, it should be in the range of 12.8v to 13.2v when shipped, often this is a tad low for shipping purposes since you are not supposed to ship a fully charged battery. If you have a multimeter you can do a quick test on it and verify voltage just so you can inform us what it is for data purposes. But from the point that it must have started the car if you got flags then that means its probably at the correct voltage, but potentially low since the battery have alot of power and even will start a car at low voltages.
- Also please note that when you pull out the battery that you are replacing the voltage in your car goes to zero volts during your swap out. So in many circumstances you will actually get flags when you first start the car again, and that is because the car went to zero volts when you disconnected the old battery, so even though you put a new battery in, it will still show the flags until you drive a bit and and then cycle the key.... meaning turn off the car and take the key out....then start the car again and drive again. That sort of clears out the old data and the car see's it has a battery with voltage and all is normal.
-The flags you will sometimes get for a battery swap or when a 12v fault is present are the rear-wheel steering, power steering, or low battery issues. But that is from the battery disconnection, and usually goes away with a little driving and cycling the key. But if you would please check the voltage and let us know, and if you have a charger try charging overnight IF the cycling didn't work. Also make sure the connections aren't loose.
- If any issues we will stand behind the product 100% and offer you a full refund if something isn't working, or we'll also try swapping a battery just to make sure it not just that particular battery and we'll pay shipping. With that being said, we rarely see this issue except on the first starts, or if the battery is undercharged, but again it does go away normally.
- I did all the testing of the original batteries in my 2016 GT3RS 991.1.... so I have done about 50 battery swaps in that car.... no boloney. I tried all the batteries in that Car, from 12Amp Hours to 60Amp hours just to see every possible issue. I would continually disconnect the batteries while I would try something else. So I ran into most every scenario possible. The odd thing was that literally half the time I did a swap I wouldn't get any flags, other times I did get the flags. I tried to figure out why , and I thought it was about how long I let it sit , or if I had some accesory on when I turned off the key before I did a battery swap but I found no rhyme or reason to it. So it varies...
In any event try to give us some voltages, try driving a bit and cycling the key, also try putting it on a charger.... then let us know if the flags went away, if any issues we'll try to assist in some otherways.
Emailing is best to scott@ and/or chad@antigravitybatteries.com. We may miss some posts if you post only on Renn, though we try be here as much as we can.
I will get some voltage readings when I get a chance and then try putting the battery on a charger.
I will keep you posted.
02-20-2023, 01:42 PM
#7
my experience:
1) you do not need to register the Ag battery with the car.
2) anytime you disconnect the battery on a 991.2 GT3 and reconnect the car will throw a litany of errors, it will clear those as they are transitory - this happened to me during a previous service at the dealership
1) you do not need to register the Ag battery with the car.
2) anytime you disconnect the battery on a 991.2 GT3 and reconnect the car will throw a litany of errors, it will clear those as they are transitory - this happened to me during a previous service at the dealership
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02-22-2023, 03:13 PM
#8
You can call us tomorrow, and talk to someone, but I can give you some basics here.... (sunday night here)
- The battery should not be defective or bad. We test voltage on all the Automotive Battteries before any shipping, it should be in the range of 12.8v to 13.2v when shipped, often this is a tad low for shipping purposes since you are not supposed to ship a fully charged battery. If you have a multimeter you can do a quick test on it and verify voltage just so you can inform us what it is for data purposes. But from the point that it must have started the car if you got flags then that means its probably at the correct voltage, but potentially low since the battery have alot of power and even will start a car at low voltages.
- Also please note that when you pull out the battery that you are replacing the voltage in your car goes to zero volts during your swap out. So in many circumstances you will actually get flags when you first start the car again, and that is because the car went to zero volts when you disconnected the old battery, so even though you put a new battery in, it will still show the flags until you drive a bit and and then cycle the key.... meaning turn off the car and take the key out....then start the car again and drive again. That sort of clears out the old data and the car see's it has a battery with voltage and all is normal.
-The flags you will sometimes get for a battery swap or when a 12v fault is present are the rear-wheel steering, power steering, or low battery issues. But that is from the battery disconnection, and usually goes away with a little driving and cycling the key. But if you would please check the voltage and let us know, and if you have a charger try charging overnight IF the cycling didn't work. Also make sure the connections aren't loose.
- If any issues we will stand behind the product 100% and offer you a full refund if something isn't working, or we'll also try swapping a battery just to make sure it not just that particular battery and we'll pay shipping. With that being said, we rarely see this issue except on the first starts, or if the battery is undercharged, but again it does go away normally.
- I did all the testing of the original batteries in my 2016 GT3RS 991.1.... so I have done about 50 battery swaps in that car.... no boloney. I tried all the batteries in that Car, from 12Amp Hours to 60Amp hours just to see every possible issue. I would continually disconnect the batteries while I would try something else. So I ran into most every scenario possible. The odd thing was that literally half the time I did a swap I wouldn't get any flags, other times I did get the flags. I tried to figure out why , and I thought it was about how long I let it sit , or if I had some accesory on when I turned off the key before I did a battery swap but I found no rhyme or reason to it. So it varies...
In any event try to give us some voltages, try driving a bit and cycling the key, also try putting it on a charger.... then let us know if the flags went away, if any issues we'll try to assist in some otherways.
Emailing is best to scott@ and/or chad@antigravitybatteries.com. We may miss some posts if you post only on Renn, though we try be here as much as we can.
- The battery should not be defective or bad. We test voltage on all the Automotive Battteries before any shipping, it should be in the range of 12.8v to 13.2v when shipped, often this is a tad low for shipping purposes since you are not supposed to ship a fully charged battery. If you have a multimeter you can do a quick test on it and verify voltage just so you can inform us what it is for data purposes. But from the point that it must have started the car if you got flags then that means its probably at the correct voltage, but potentially low since the battery have alot of power and even will start a car at low voltages.
- Also please note that when you pull out the battery that you are replacing the voltage in your car goes to zero volts during your swap out. So in many circumstances you will actually get flags when you first start the car again, and that is because the car went to zero volts when you disconnected the old battery, so even though you put a new battery in, it will still show the flags until you drive a bit and and then cycle the key.... meaning turn off the car and take the key out....then start the car again and drive again. That sort of clears out the old data and the car see's it has a battery with voltage and all is normal.
-The flags you will sometimes get for a battery swap or when a 12v fault is present are the rear-wheel steering, power steering, or low battery issues. But that is from the battery disconnection, and usually goes away with a little driving and cycling the key. But if you would please check the voltage and let us know, and if you have a charger try charging overnight IF the cycling didn't work. Also make sure the connections aren't loose.
- If any issues we will stand behind the product 100% and offer you a full refund if something isn't working, or we'll also try swapping a battery just to make sure it not just that particular battery and we'll pay shipping. With that being said, we rarely see this issue except on the first starts, or if the battery is undercharged, but again it does go away normally.
- I did all the testing of the original batteries in my 2016 GT3RS 991.1.... so I have done about 50 battery swaps in that car.... no boloney. I tried all the batteries in that Car, from 12Amp Hours to 60Amp hours just to see every possible issue. I would continually disconnect the batteries while I would try something else. So I ran into most every scenario possible. The odd thing was that literally half the time I did a swap I wouldn't get any flags, other times I did get the flags. I tried to figure out why , and I thought it was about how long I let it sit , or if I had some accesory on when I turned off the key before I did a battery swap but I found no rhyme or reason to it. So it varies...
In any event try to give us some voltages, try driving a bit and cycling the key, also try putting it on a charger.... then let us know if the flags went away, if any issues we'll try to assist in some otherways.
Emailing is best to scott@ and/or chad@antigravitybatteries.com. We may miss some posts if you post only on Renn, though we try be here as much as we can.
02-23-2023, 01:53 AM
#9
Drifting
The only time my car threw a code was when installing Antigravity Battery.
That said... after the first time and clearing codes, no issues. Codes never came back and Antigravity Battery has been working perfectly ever since.
02-23-2023, 04:08 AM
#10
my experience:
1) you do not need to register the Ag battery with the car.
2) anytime you disconnect the battery on a 991.2 GT3 and reconnect the car will throw a litany of errors, it will clear those as they are transitory - this happened to me during a previous service at the dealership
1) you do not need to register the Ag battery with the car.
2) anytime you disconnect the battery on a 991.2 GT3 and reconnect the car will throw a litany of errors, it will clear those as they are transitory - this happened to me during a previous service at the dealership
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Antigravity (02-23-2023)
02-23-2023, 04:30 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
Maybe related to the "intelligent" battery management on these cars? My German Li-ion batt has an adapter to plug into the stock wiring to stop the IBS throwing a fit.
https://en.liteblox.de/shop/connecto...ry-management/
https://en.liteblox.de/shop/connecto...ry-management/
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NCheok (02-24-2023)
02-24-2023, 04:20 PM
#13
I swapped my RS to the same AG battery. No faults. I didn't need to register anything.
Make sure if you are switching from the OEM lightweight battery, you plug in the connector back into the terminal.
Make sure if you are switching from the OEM lightweight battery, you plug in the connector back into the terminal.
02-24-2023, 04:29 PM
#14
Rennlist Member