Trading 992 c2s for 991.1 gt3
#31
Instructor
Congrats! I think you did the right choice... as a fun car it is miles ahead of a Carrera.
#32
One more thing, just to add to our lot in life, don’t get attached to your favorite Porsche expert, cause he is moving on from hill and dale. When you thought it was perfect, that’s when the guy who knows your car and knows your racing style takes a better offer and you find yourself looking for good enough. Life’s a bitch!
#35
Looks good for a base model but, you'll be adding ppf, ceramic wrap, roll bar, track seats, Harnesses, Jiro Disks and Track pads, DSC Controller, 19" track wheels, track exhaust and get the camber set up for tracking, plus you'll need the center lock torque wrench, jack etc.. Before you know it, that white will look plain and you'll want to add a wrap, plus PPF on top of the wrap. And don't forget you'll need to upgrade your racing attire to fire proof race suit, race shoes, gloves, helmet, and then there's the track timer. You'll start off with harry's but before you know it you'll be into the Solo, or VBox, plus want video of all of your track runs. Then, you'll need coaching because you can't seem to get past 24 and the track record is 19, so load on the coaches, plus replacing tires every track weekend will start adding up so you'll switch to scrubs, and then need another set of 19" track wheels since you've already spent so much money you might as well make sure you can last the weekend. Then, if you're lucky, your engine will blow and Porsche will grant you a brand new G series which will make it all seem worthwhile. Finally, you'll get tired of your local track and want to track it at Sebring or Road America or the Glen, so you'll pick up a trailer. First, you'll get an open trailer but before long you'll realize showing off a six figure car in the parking lot of a hilton may not be the smartest thing you've ever done so you'll trade that puppy in for an enclosed one, with a winch. But you'll need to add better tires because they don't come with good ones. You'll need a 3/4 ton minimum diesel pickup to haul this beast to your favorite track, and several credit cards to get the truck filled up on the way. Then, someone will write something about the new version out with some type of fancy suspension that you can't live without, so you'll uncouple all of the things you've done to the car, trade it in for a loss, buy your new toy and do it all over again. Isn't life grand! Don't forget to buy track insurance from OpenTrack @ $7k a year.
truth hahaha
luckily i already have a truck ready
#36
#37
Burning Brakes
Interesting thread for sure, I myself am looking to move into a .1 GT3. I had not heard much about this first-gen engine issue, but will definitely need to start asking some questions. I daily my .1 C2 and love it, but just looking for something a bit more fun and raw. I've heard using a GT3 as a daily is definitely doable, provided you swap to PS4s and set the pressures to a more comfortable setting. I probably do DE/track events 4-5x a year. I had been considering a .2 Turbo, but, I think it's worth it to myself to at least try a GT3 in arguably their best configuration as who knows what the future holds. I'd love a .2 as the styling and looks and smart interior updates are nice but at their current price points it's out of the question lol. There's a few CPO'd .1 gens here in Houston I'm looking at, will search/lurk here a bit more before making any moves.
#38
The 991.1 GT3 is undoubtedly a more engaging car than a 992 C2S, both on the street and on the track. An argument can be made for manual vs PDK, but as both vehicles you are considering are PDK, this is a moot point.
It sounds like you are somewhat locked into a .1 GT3. A constant topic of discussion on this forum is the .1 GT3 engine durability concern. Without diminishing this issue, here is my perspective on the .1 GT3 engine, as a .1 GT3 owner. Fundamentally there are four scenarios here:
Given that in the current market, 991.1 GT3s sell for roughly $50k below 991.2 GT3s, the only scenario in which you may lose financially is #4, which requires negligence. The cost of the Dundon solid lifter top end in scenario 3 is admittedly speculative, but for the product to make financial sense for Dundon to sell, it would have to be drastically cheaper than the cost of a full engine replacement -- or else people will just go do that.
A 991.2 GT3 of course is a faster car than a 991.1 GT3, to the tune of 25hp and a few other revisions to the aero, drivetrain, suspension, and interior/exterior styling. However, I'd argue that a .1 GT3 offers probably something like 95% the capability of the .2 GT3, but for 75% of the spend in a best-case scenario. Sure, the .2 GT3 will be theoretically faster, but are you so good of a driver that you'll be more consistent day-to-day than the 5% performance variation between the two generations? If both are PDK, I would also argue that the driving enjoyment you'd get out of a .1 GT3 is probably identical to the enjoyment you'd get out of a .2 GT3.
Based on the above, I chose to purchase a .1 GT3. I've had no problems with the car so far, it is absolutely intoxicating to drive every time, and the ~50k left in my other investments has served me well so far.
It sounds like you are somewhat locked into a .1 GT3. A constant topic of discussion on this forum is the .1 GT3 engine durability concern. Without diminishing this issue, here is my perspective on the .1 GT3 engine, as a .1 GT3 owner. Fundamentally there are four scenarios here:
- You get a .1 GT3 which already has a G6 motor, and you don't have to worry about the engine issue.
- You get a .1 GT3 with an F0/G0 motor. The top end wears in a manner that requires replacement within the 10 year period, and you get a G6 engine from Porsche at no cost to you (other than downtime), at which point you don't have to worry about the engine again.
- You get a .1 GT3 with an F0/G0 motor. The engine does not require replacement within the 10 year period. You take action, replacing the top end with the solid lifter & cam set up that Dundon Motorsports has developed. This costs you some money out of pocket, and some downtime, but you don't have to worry about the engine again.
- You get the .1 GT3 with an F0/G0 motor. The engine does not require replacement within the 10 year period. You choose to do nothing, and the top end wears in a manner that requires replacement after the warranty expires. You pay for this out of pocket, roughly $50k (based on the invoices people have received from their dealers after a G6 replacement) as well as downtime.
Given that in the current market, 991.1 GT3s sell for roughly $50k below 991.2 GT3s, the only scenario in which you may lose financially is #4, which requires negligence. The cost of the Dundon solid lifter top end in scenario 3 is admittedly speculative, but for the product to make financial sense for Dundon to sell, it would have to be drastically cheaper than the cost of a full engine replacement -- or else people will just go do that.
A 991.2 GT3 of course is a faster car than a 991.1 GT3, to the tune of 25hp and a few other revisions to the aero, drivetrain, suspension, and interior/exterior styling. However, I'd argue that a .1 GT3 offers probably something like 95% the capability of the .2 GT3, but for 75% of the spend in a best-case scenario. Sure, the .2 GT3 will be theoretically faster, but are you so good of a driver that you'll be more consistent day-to-day than the 5% performance variation between the two generations? If both are PDK, I would also argue that the driving enjoyment you'd get out of a .1 GT3 is probably identical to the enjoyment you'd get out of a .2 GT3.
Based on the above, I chose to purchase a .1 GT3. I've had no problems with the car so far, it is absolutely intoxicating to drive every time, and the ~50k left in my other investments has served me well so far.
#39
Rennlist Member
Looks good for a base model but, you'll be adding ppf, ceramic wrap, roll bar, track seats, Harnesses, Jiro Disks and Track pads, DSC Controller, 19" track wheels, track exhaust and get the camber set up for tracking, plus you'll need the center lock torque wrench, jack etc.. Before you know it, that white will look plain and you'll want to add a wrap, plus PPF on top of the wrap. And don't forget you'll need to upgrade your racing attire to fire proof race suit, race shoes, gloves, helmet, and then there's the track timer. You'll start off with harry's but before you know it you'll be into the Solo, or VBox, plus want video of all of your track runs. Then, you'll need coaching because you can't seem to get past 24 and the track record is 19, so load on the coaches, plus replacing tires every track weekend will start adding up so you'll switch to scrubs, and then need another set of 19" track wheels since you've already spent so much money you might as well make sure you can last the weekend. Then, if you're lucky, your engine will blow and Porsche will grant you a brand new G series which will make it all seem worthwhile. Finally, you'll get tired of your local track and want to track it at Sebring or Road America or the Glen, so you'll pick up a trailer. First, you'll get an open trailer but before long you'll realize showing off a six figure car in the parking lot of a hilton may not be the smartest thing you've ever done so you'll trade that puppy in for an enclosed one, with a winch. But you'll need to add better tires because they don't come with good ones. You'll need a 3/4 ton minimum diesel pickup to haul this beast to your favorite track, and several credit cards to get the truck filled up on the way. Then, someone will write something about the new version out with some type of fancy suspension that you can't live without, so you'll uncouple all of the things you've done to the car, trade it in for a loss, buy your new toy and do it all over again. Isn't life grand! Don't forget to buy track insurance from OpenTrack @ $7k a year.
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RDCR (06-25-2022)