Thiemrodt911

Sorry, I'll bet this has been discussed numerous times, I'm new so go easy. I'm looking at a less than 5000 mile gt3 with pccb. I will only drive a couple thousand miles a year, with maybe a couple track days. And I'm no Mario btw. My question is should the pccb future replacement be necessary, can I go to steel? Would it be ok to use the yellow calipers with ceramic pads on steel rotors. If so, who is the after market maker of the steel rotors? Or would I go with Porsche rotors? Thanks!!

tstafford

Here’s a solution for your consideration:
https://www.girodisc.com/With-PCCB_c_1726.html

Thiemrodt911

That looks like a great option. So I could just go with stock steel rotor pads to make it all work? Calipers would stay just like they are, no adjustment needed to them?

tstafford

No change to calipers. And I believe you can use any pads that you would normally use with the OE iron rotors. Just not the PCCB pads.

dsteding

For what it is worth, I’m picking up a 2016 GT3 that has 20k miles and has been tracked hard. Motor recently replaced. PCCBs are still serviceable, they aren’t eating pads and have been looked at but not measured for carbon content. I’m assuming they are worn out, we’ll test them when they CPO the car, but 20k miles of heavy track usage is pretty damn impressive. Car is currently owned by a maniac of a PCA instructor and former race car driver. He’s on his third set of pads.

My point is that 991.1 PCCBs are petty durable.

Palting

Girodisc is one option as posted above. Here is another, Surface Transforms, with all the info you need: https://www.autoquestcars.com/custom-11

And yes, the PCCBs a durable and long lasting. 20K track miles on one set is not unheard of. If you only do a few DE weekends a year, keeping the PCCBs is a third option.

dsteding

the car I am getting may very well have 15k of 20k miles on the track. But, the driver is highly skilled and I think there is something to the idea that a skilled driver is not as hard on equipment. Seems like these rotors last a long time as long as they don’t get cooked.

Palting

Ah. I disagree. One of the skills of the seasoned driver is late threshold braking. IMO, 20K track miles with a seasoned driver at the helm means those PCCB rotors are likely near or at the end of their lifespan. You must factor the cost of replacement into whatever price negotiations you make.

EDIT: Wait a minute. Your first post says the car has 5K miles?

EDIT:2: NVM, there are two of you on this thread buying cars.

dsteding

It has been factored in price. This car will be almost exclusively a track car for me, it will get steel at some point. I’d be curious in seeing what the difference is in generating heat with aggressive, late threshold braking versus trail braking or otherwise not being efficient. Certainly an aggressive driver generates more kinetic energy that must be turned into heat, but I wonder how that heat is dissipated. Regardless, I’m pretty amazed the rotors haven’t come apart, the seller is one of my driving coaches and I’ve spent some time in the car with him.

Thiemrodt911

When was the motor replaced, what year? I thought for the most part the 2014's had the problem, and few if any 15's and 16's needed replacing. Just wondering. ??

dsteding

It is a 2016, production was September 2015, so I think it had a F series motor in it originally. Motor went around 18k miles (finger follower issue) and was replaced with a G6 in October 2020. There is a pretty big thread on the finger follower issue, the general consensus is you want to find one that had been swapped out with a G series replacement, or drive the hell out of it and hope the earlier motor fails before the ten year warranty is up.

Thiemrodt911

I'm looking at a 5k mile 2015. Is the percentage of engine failures high? There was no modifications between the 14's and later models? Seems after the 14's started catching fire they would have corrected it. Sorry, I don't know much about these. Eager to learn.

itrsteve

The engine iterations don’t follow the model years. General rule of thumb, the earlier the .1 the easier it is to kill. I’m 98% sure that the F’s all the way up to #3047 are the same as the post-recall 2014’s (E1).

There’s enough threads here if you want to stress yourself out.

They’re not hard to kill, just has to see some time close to the redline.

JRitt@essex

The pads that come stock with the PCCB discs are designed to work with the PCCB discs. If you go with iron aftermarket discs, there are better options for pads to match them. We (Essex Parts / AP Racing) have some of the most popular brake options available for the 991 GT3. We offer a couple different solutions.

You can see our menu of options here: https://www.essexparts.com/my-vehicl...RS/with%20PCCB

1. We supply iron 2-piece discs in the OEM PCCB sizes. These are a direct replacement, and the stock calipers bolt right onto them. We would suggest a set of Ferodo Racing brake pads to mate with them. The Ferodo DS1.11 and DSUNO are our two most popular track compounds among GT3 owners. The biggest negative to replacing the OEM PCCB discs with iron is the increase in unsprung weight. Our AP Racing J Hooks are incredibly durable though, and have proven to be the longest-lasting option on the market.

2. We offer a complete AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake System that replaces not only the discs, but the OEM calipers as well. Going this route allows you to maintain most of the unsprung weight advantage that the PCCB setup offers. Our iron AP Racing setup weighs 33 lbs. less than the OEM iron 991 GT3 system, and it's as close as one can get to the AP Radi-CAL system on the Le Mans-winning 911 RSR. Our system allows you to preserve the valuable OEM yellow calipers. Our system also allows you to change pads without removing the caliper, something not possible with the OEM calipers. Our system also allows for improved wheel clearance. Spares are reasonably priced, and the whole system is much more robust and sustainable. One of the great things about this setup is that when you're done with this car and ready to move to your next, you can sell the full brake kit for about 65-70% of what you paid. Then you reinstall your OEM PCCB setup, which is still in good condition, and potential buyers aren't scared off because the brakes on the car look like they were through war.

We have hundreds of satisfied GT3 owners on this setup, and you can read about their experiences on our blog: https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog
This thread here on the forum traces the development of this system, and also has lots of owner feedback: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...t-finally.html

While there are other solutions on the market, I would argue that we provide the greatest overall ownership experience. We aren't the cheapest, but it's incredibly rare for our products to create problems. We have an incredibly thorough QC process in place, multiple engineers on our team, a full staff dedicated fully to brakes and the support of these products. We jump through hoops to keep our clients happy, have been in business since 1983, have loads of experience working with professional race teams and enthusiasts alike, and we are long-time Rennlist sponsors.

We're happy to help, regardless of which route you want to go. We provide pads, fluid, stainless brake lines, 2-piece discs, and complete brake kits. We can steer you towards whatever the best match is for your needs. Thanks for your consideration!

rohitgarewal

what are you paying for yours and are you financing? I’m trying to get a 2015 GT3 for 125k including shipping and no bank values the car at more than 83k, so they’re asking me to plug the difference. That’s money I could put into an investment property and am hesitant in dropping it on a car. Thoughts??