Aww Crap... It's Another .1RS vs .2RS Thread
#16
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If we are being intellectually honest, the only situation in which it would ever truly be a “$30k to $50k” difference is if you intend to dispose of the cars for scrap value at some point in the future.
The residual value at any point in time will always be materially greater for the .2 than the .1. Sure, you may pay incrementally more in state registration fees and experience nominally more depreciation, but the true cost difference is rather trivial given the amounts of money we are talking about here.
The residual value at any point in time will always be materially greater for the .2 than the .1. Sure, you may pay incrementally more in state registration fees and experience nominally more depreciation, but the true cost difference is rather trivial given the amounts of money we are talking about here.
BTW I soften the front sway bar to help mid corner understeer a bit and the side benefit of that is softer ride. Run a couple PSI lower in the tires to help even more.
#17
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Of course Mooty says it best but we both forgot warranty.
A .1RS is pretty much out of warranty and the .2RS have 2-3 years left. So $50K buys you 2-3 years of warranty.
I think the .1RS at $125/145K is pretty much the bottom for those cars. So actually less depreciation on the .1RS.
A bit of spirited road driving a few times a year is all you do, any RS will last forever it’s so over built.
But still the .2RS motor and gearbox are much more fun in .2RS if you can deal with the harder ride on your roads. Also the rear wing is way louder over 125Mph. Think tornado on backseat.
.2RS has Apple play - gorilla glass - no nice carpet in the back - no more idiot oil warning - TPS still ****e but better then .1RS.
A .1RS is pretty much out of warranty and the .2RS have 2-3 years left. So $50K buys you 2-3 years of warranty.
I think the .1RS at $125/145K is pretty much the bottom for those cars. So actually less depreciation on the .1RS.
A bit of spirited road driving a few times a year is all you do, any RS will last forever it’s so over built.
But still the .2RS motor and gearbox are much more fun in .2RS if you can deal with the harder ride on your roads. Also the rear wing is way louder over 125Mph. Think tornado on backseat.
.2RS has Apple play - gorilla glass - no nice carpet in the back - no more idiot oil warning - TPS still ****e but better then .1RS.
#18
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
For you ....No
#21
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OP, extra $ worth it?... for me, a resolute YES... and I don't even track the car!
#22
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've had both and I went back to the .1 because I mostly drive on roads. It's more fun on the street/canyons with it's greater compliance, and it's elegant and understated (less ducts and decals, etc.), if that's possible with an RS. LOL
#23
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have 40,000 on one and 20,000 on the new one and a lot of track time.
For track time it’s not even close. The .2RS is much faster.
But that gets negated if you are a few seconds off the pace of what the car can do.
On short technical tracks also.
.2RS aero, PDK and motor are much nicer.
.1RS is pretty bullet proof but my .2RS got a new gearbox.
On the street the .1RS is much softer and quieter.
Is it worth it? I think so, but I want to go fast on fast tracks and roads are nice in FL mostly.
I drive the .2RS on UK roads and it’s barely drivable.
For track time it’s not even close. The .2RS is much faster.
But that gets negated if you are a few seconds off the pace of what the car can do.
On short technical tracks also.
.2RS aero, PDK and motor are much nicer.
.1RS is pretty bullet proof but my .2RS got a new gearbox.
On the street the .1RS is much softer and quieter.
Is it worth it? I think so, but I want to go fast on fast tracks and roads are nice in FL mostly.
I drive the .2RS on UK roads and it’s barely drivable.
As for the OPs question, I would get a GT4 Clubsport MR if it is a track only vehicle. This is assuming you can leave it at the track or have a trailer and truck of course. No question though that I would spend the extra money and buy a .2. I spent $80k more for mine and was happy to do it.
#24
Racer
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This thread I think goes over a lot of the pros and cons pretty well and includes potential cost of bringing a .1 closer to .2 "spec". Not sure if the difference is $50k anymore though... there were a couple of .1s that went for really cheap, post covid, but now not so sure. For $30k difference, is tougher call. In theory the .2 should fetch higher resale down the road, but using the 997 .1 vs .2 as a lateral the differences aren't really that big today. They did end up making more 991.1 RSs though.
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...0-000-a-6.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...0-000-a-6.html
#25
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Another big issue I found with the .2 is the interior noise level. With the .1 I never used earplugs and could still have a decent conversation at speed on the track. With the.2 it was absolutely neccessary for me to use earplugs or a communication device while at the track. It makes the best noise in the world at 9000 but way louder than the .1
#26
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Another big issue I found with the .2 is the interior noise level. With the .1 I never used earplugs and could still have a decent conversation at speed on the track. With the.2 it was absolutely neccessary for me to use earplugs or a communication device while at the track. It makes the best noise in the world at 9000 but way louder than the .1
The .2RS is much louder, much stiffer compared to the .1RS, so if you plan to mainly attend C&C events, drive around town, and do a few canyon runs/weekend trips, then .1 RS is the way to go.
#27
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Regarding how loud the .2RS is, can someone confirm if this refers to interior cabin noise or are you referring to the exterior measured OEM exhaust noise?
Thought I read somewhere that the .1RS was the loudest decibel tested by R&T.
Thanks
Thought I read somewhere that the .1RS was the loudest decibel tested by R&T.
Thanks
#28
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^^^cabin noise for sure. My only other experience is black-flags for noise in the UK with a .2-rs, meaning it was louder. MAYBE the shriek at absolute redline could be louder on .1rs, but inside and out it seemed louder everywhere else in the band. That being said, I never ran any dB tests; so my experience is all anecdotal and black-flag noise infractions at various circuits in UK (not the “.3” pm filter cars)
#29
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Like everyone said:
.2rs more exciting/aggressively tuned all around and faster around a track.
.1rs is a better car for long hauls on the road and still damn good around a circuit.
I found the .2 a lot more “fun” but the .1 a lot more “liveable” for lots of road miles.
.2rs more exciting/aggressively tuned all around and faster around a track.
.1rs is a better car for long hauls on the road and still damn good around a circuit.
I found the .2 a lot more “fun” but the .1 a lot more “liveable” for lots of road miles.
#30
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If money doesn't matter: 991 GT2RS, if money matters: 991.1 GT3 RS (the best bargain Porsche today).
I gathered lots of track and test data on both the .1 and .2 GT3RS. There is a performance advantage on the .2 but it is not as significant as the gap on driving talent shown by most owners of these cars.
If I were to buy one today: 991 GT2RS, if money was tight: 991.1 GT3 RS, if intended use is track for the most part: 981 ClubSport MR.
I gathered lots of track and test data on both the .1 and .2 GT3RS. There is a performance advantage on the .2 but it is not as significant as the gap on driving talent shown by most owners of these cars.
If I were to buy one today: 991 GT2RS, if money was tight: 991.1 GT3 RS, if intended use is track for the most part: 981 ClubSport MR.