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I noticed that when I first bought my GT3 that the brakes (steel) don't have a lot of bite to them. Fortunately at the track they will take just about all the abuse you can throw at them, you just need to stand on the pedal harder than you're used to. Really impressed with their durability out of the box, but hoping I can get more of the bite I'm used to when I throw my Ferodo DS1.11s on.
i had the same initial impression. Picked up a CPO .1 GT3 last month with brand new oem pads and rotors. Not as much initiatial note as my 991.2 c2s, 991.2 GTS or even f80 m3, but much stronger overall. I think it’s kust a different feel. Immediately swapped out the pads with Ferodo dms1.11 and srf brake fluid. Improved the bite quite a bit and since I’ve run these pads and fluid on all my track cars, I expect they will perform flawlessly when I get this Gt3 to the track for the first time in a couple weeks. I fell in love with Ferodo ds1.11 and girodisc rotors on my other cars and expect the same results on the Gt3. Ps, I run cota quite a bit and that track is notoriously hard on brakes and the ferod/giro setup never flinches. If you want to cut the guess work out of Porsche track brake set ups, contact Clark Hamerly at Apex Performamce in South Carolina. He knows the tried and true setups for all
Porsches and the best prices and customer service I’ve ever experienced. Many on Rennlist use him and would say the same.
Pads/Rotors don't have to be new. They just have to meet the minimum thickness requirements. They probably sold the car with track pads that were thick enough. The indie probably sold the OP on new hardware, it's the first thing they do when you complain about brakes.
I actually got the rotors and pads myself. The shop only did the installation. The rotors were in pretty bad shape, cracks everywhere and one have a deep groove. The old pads met the min thickness, but according to the shop, they were in pretty bad shape, too. There is some kind of glaze on the pads. The shop told me that kept the pads from biting the rotors correctly. Nothing was salvageable.
Originally Posted by 3Series
What shop did you go to? Did they recommend the pad or you brought it in? If they recommended it, just take the car back and tell them to switch pads, specify this is a street car. It's easy to swap pads and if they value you as a customer and want repeat business....
If you want to try track driving, 4/26 is PCA's Novice day at Blackhawk Farms. Great time and you'll meet folks that can help you swap pads with centerlocks if you want to learn to do it yourself. If you don't like the pads now, I wouldn't wait until you wear the current set out before changing them. LIfe's too short.
I brought the parts in. I was told they are more than sufficient for street driving and work much better than the OE parts by the Online store sales. Girodisc rotors may be the case, but I guess HAWK HPS 5.0 aren't.
Originally Posted by Matrog
changing out the brake fluid. If the car was tracked a lot, the fluid may shot/contain water and cause the pedal to feel soft.
According to service history. Brake fluid was changed out Sept 2018.
Originally Posted by Akunob
First, you should have taken the car back to the selling dealership as I believe new pads/rotors and new tires are a condition for a CPO certification. Second, track pads (Hawks) have a slightly different (higher) optimal operating temperature than street pads. As a result, when cold, the initial bite/performance of a track pads are not great. I also agree with other comments about bedding...make sure the pads were bedded correctly.
I bought the car from a dealer in Texas, sight unseen. I negotiated an amount for all cosmetic flaws that they did not disclose. I noticed the cracks on the rotors and the brake issue back in November 18. Took it to a local dealer. Without really checking the brake, they told me that it is the tires with cold weather affecting the stopping. Since then, the car has been in storage until 2 weeks ago. I think it is probably too late to go after the dealer that I bought it from.
So you are saying you let the shop bed your pads? I would never let a shop bed my pads as they would have to drive the car pretty hard go get the break temps up to get them bedded. Here is an older discussion on it...
So you are saying you let the shop bed your pads? I would never let a shop bed my pads as they would have to drive the car pretty hard go get the break temps up to get them bedded. Here is an older discussion on it...
Bed the pads in and I'll bet your braking improves
Originally Posted by kahane18
Bleed the brakes add new fluid and put Pagid pads on...
I have since then swapped out the Hawk pads for the Race Technologies TS20. There is a significant improvement. Once again, the shop did the bedding for me. They told me that over time it will improve. I read some bedding procedure. It is hard to find a place that I can do 10 to 20 times, 70 to 10 mph braking. Is that all I need to do?
I bought a used CPO 991.1 GT3 last November. Upon taking the delivery of the car, I noticed something is off about the brake. The car doesn't stop hard, even when I stepped on the pedal all the way, hard.
After inspecting the brake, I noticed the rotors were cracked and scorched. The car was
definitely tracked. Not a bad thing. Just wish the dealer would disclose that before selling me the car.
Yesterday, I had all 4 rotors and pads replaced (Girodisc and Hawks pads) by a local shop. None of the stock rotors and pads were salvageable. I drove the car home last night and to work this morning. I definitely noticed an improvement. The brake works fine when I am trying to "slowly slow down". But when I need to really "stop" the car and stepping hard on the pedal, it just doesn't seem to perform well. Feels like the calipers don't bite hard enough and rotors are still moving. I am comparing to a few cars I have owned previously (M550, GLE43, Maserati SQ4, Carrera S). These brake on those car seems to stop better than the GT3. That doesn't seem normal....
Are the rotors/pads still trying to break in? or is this the normal behavior of GT3 brake system? Please share your experience. Thank you.
ive had 3 GT3’s. 2 997’s with ceramic and a 911 with steel. Currently I have a 991.2 C2S.
I’d have to say that my 997.1 and .2 with ceramics had awesome stopping power... even after 20-30min on the track. The 991 GT3 was bad. I changed over to Giro Disc and it was no better... it even started to warp after 4K miles... no tracking just rallies.
Currently my 991.2 C2S with 350mm in front and 310mm in the rear stops really well! I’m really surprised. So I don’t know if technology changed between 991.1 and 991.2, but there’s a noticeable difference between my 991.2 C2S and 991.1 GT3. I sold that GT3 after a year. It was fast, but it was PDK and I had little confidence in the brakes.
I’m really happy with the power (now with cats and tune) of the 991.2 C2S. I also like the stopping power. However, I do miss the looks of the ceramics and/or the 380mm rotors on the 991.1 GT3. I’m contemplating either upgrading the 310mm tears to match the 350mm fronts or switch to 380mm all around steel on the 991.2 C2S. I’m hoping that braking improves closer to that of the ceramics if I make the change.
I run Giro discs and PFC 11, and my 991.1 GT3 stops great. It works as well as any previous porsche track car I've ever driven. PFCs don't need bedding. I've taken them out of the box at the track between sessions, and before the next 30 min session is done, the brakes are good to go. Switching pads on the same rotors can cause problems...so can bad tires, or enduro pads at low temps.
I thought the same thing when I went from a 2017 BMW M3 to my 2015 GT3. I'm not saying the breaks aren't good on the GT3 but I definitely noticed a difference. It didn't make sense in my mind how or why but it was what I was sensing.
I thought the same thing when I went from a 2017 BMW M3 to my 2015 GT3. I'm not saying the breaks aren't good on the GT3 but I definitely noticed a difference. It didn't make sense in my mind how or why but it was what I was sensing.
Same here, from an F80 to 991.1 GT3 and the brakes on the GT3 feels weak! Last track day I went with my friend that has an F80 with Carbon Ceramics and we switch cars in the middle of the session. The initial bite it the F80 was night and day difference. The GT3 pedal felt long (it was not fading) just felt long compared with the M3. I want to either change rotors and pads or buy better pads. What is the best hybrid pad, for track use (4 sessions a year) and daily driving (I drive 5000 miles a year)?
Long pedal means something is not right. Flushed with good pads, the pedal should be rock hard with short throw. Bite is pad and tire dependent. The braking on my 996 GT3 is the same as on the 991.1 GT3. The C7 Corvette was a little better, with 15 in rotors and Raybestos ST43 pads, Pirelli take-offs.
In my experience, there was no mayerial performance difference between the stock rotors and girodisc or j hooks. But, I did feel that I got longer rotor life out of the aftermarket rotors them the stock ones. The cross drilled the holes encourage earlier cracking in my opinion. After you burn through the stock rotors, try the Gyro discs. They are less money, slightly more performance, and last quite a bit longer.
04-03-2019, 05:40 PM
