IPSA

YEP

TRAKCAR

I can’t go back to steel...
Love the first and last lap identical pedal feel, and the weight loss is about .4/.5 secs per lap for me.

chance6

I have to disagree...in real world stopping comparisons, well there is no comparison, the PCCB car stops harder and with more force, and with lesser distance.

Then you have the heat resistance, less unsprung mass, etc. Yes they are pricey.

PierreTT

Peter
I believe you are using a much better/cost effective brake system than the OEM one, correct?

TRAKCAR

Yes, Surface Transform rotors.
$13K, can be refurbished up to 5x giving you a real residual based on use.
PCCB used on track are treated like Ebola.

PierreTT

I owned PCCB (991.1 GT3) and Steelies on the other cars
I prefer how the steel ones feels (more linear, less ON/OFF feel)
I prefered PCCB for brake dust and look, that's it.

For a street car (no track), I would consider PCCB again. For a track & street car, I would not, for $$$ reasons.

orthojoe

I'm not making the information up. Do you trust the oem manufacturer's research and design rationale, or someone's personal feelings?
Go back and read as well. Actual comparison tests show no stopping difference between pccb and iron. The limiting factor is the tire, not the brakes. Your perceived difference has to do with pedal feel from brake pad compound, which is subjective.

Psup4s

There you have it fellows in Yellow pccb color

signes

Somebody who gets it.

Diamond 9

Soo sorry but no one will have as much as fun in Miata as they will in GT3RS 🤣🤣

CAlexio

Not sure where you are getting this data but everything published shows to the contrary. Ceramics are resistant to fade, but stopping distance to steel is the same for the first X amount of stops.. steel does fade after repeat panic or full force stops.. but then resets as temps cool.

Porsche911GTS'16

I have one of each. My GTS has steel brakes and my GT3T PCCBs. I find the PCCBs are better. Both are first class and I would not spec a Carrera (including the GTS) with PCCBs. To me, if you are going to get a GT3 (or RS) for the street, get the PCCBs. They could last you a long, long time. If it is a track rat, get the steels. I have had to replace the brake pads on my GTS steels 3 times (in 4 years). The brake dust is no joke, either, if such a thing matters to you. I am glad that I spec'd my GTS with the steels but equally glad I spec'd my GT3T with the ceramics. Ultimately, it depends on what you will be doing with the car (street vs track) and how much you value the lack of brake dust (and the weight reduction) with the PCCBs.

Chris3963

At last, a couple of credible dudes that agree. People with PCCBs conveniently overlook facts. And I highlight one extra point again, on cold brakes, irons will stop shorter which could be the difference hitting/not hitting the wall or a child with ABS and the tyres always being the limiting factor. It’s why is back to back tyre tests, some tyres stop shorter that others.

TRAKCAR

I agree with Joe, Chris, Alessandro and others and I think for me it’s a more the extreme scenario’s.

Ive heen able to run my 997’s easily and Mr Purple only maybe a handful of laps where the pedal got so soft and fade started to happen with steel brakes that it affected my laptime more then tire degradation at the end of the sessions.

At $25K replacement cost PCCB’s are too wild for me, or I drive too many track days anyway but with ST rotors I found the same benefits for a fraction of the price so I ordered my car with steel brakes to use that cost savings to buy ST.

But!:
-Extreme heat 90F +
-I know it’s hot in CA but there are no tracks that use brakes.
-Extreme tracks; Sebring, VIR and other old fast tracks on the right coast where you shed 100MPH or more from braking to V-min a couple of times a lap.
-Not on the first day with new proper endurance pads, but after a couple days of use.
-Heavyest spec RS possible, 3200+ me + fuel = 3700lbs on grippy tires, PDK makes full-on ABS easier, so it’s max abuse.
-I’m rough on brakes, seems faster and I’m not so good at the cornering thing as some lol, more of a slow in fast our guy relying on brakes and HP to find laptime.

Plus the ST rotors feel better in my hands due to less inspring weight.
Same performance 1st and last lap, first day or day 10 on the pads.

It’s still more expensive then OEM steel and good aftermarket pads (Race Technologies RE-10 for me) but about the same as some top notch steel aftermarket rotors.

Benefits to keep in mind;
Pads last 50-100% longer, so each pad change you “earn back” $250-500.
I was surprised at Spa that my RSL1 Pagids only last 4-5 days when they last double that on the ST.
Refurb takes place later then replacing rotors, when replacing 4 oem rotors are $3500, refurb is $2400 so you “earn back” 5x $1000 or so over the life of the 13,000 ST rotors in steel (oem) replacement cost of the rotors as well.

So the total sum for me over the life of the rotors isn’t that much more then steel rotors with the benefit of better feel, cleaner wheels, less labor because fewer pad and rotor changes.

Like everything you can slide rule the assumptions but basically it’s $13,000 and maybe you “earn back” only half of that.
Over the 4 year warranty life of the car that seems reasonable to me.

Ive swapped Mr purple brakes over to Lizzard with a new backup set on Mr Purple.
Useless on the street but Matte Aluminum wheels stay nice and pretty and I don’t have to bother Autoquest for loaners during the 2-3 week refurb time.

Besides that you must be diligent to bed in the rotors when new, there are no negatives besides the upfront cost.

chance6

Well right there, ceramics already have an advantage.
I guess on the first 3 cold stops for example, show me the data. My experience with both doesn’t match if you say they are the same.

Car and Driver ran a test with steel vs. PSCB (I think that’s the acronym- the tungsten carbide Coated brakes), and even that showed a difference.